Has anyone got/had metolius simulator and bought a beastmaker?How much better is it really? Are the slopers that delicious?(Sorry if its been brought up already but search didn't flag it, and I can't be arsed to read 8 pages)
Yeah man, just found this pic. I'm ordering one!
Re one arm hangs talking again to Serpico it may be a weakness in the shoulder rather than the fingers that requires work. He went from struggling to one arm a first joint edge to comfortably doing it for 7 seconds following various dumbell exercises.
Simon - I've done a couple of hour long sessions early morning before work and then gone climbing in the evening feeling recovered.
With regard to one armed hangs I can scarcely do them on on second joint edges
but when alls said and done you do have weak fingers
i'm a big cock
There is a little trick to making one arm hangs a lot easier. If you engage the shoulder muscles as if you are trying to pull the opposite free shoulder up into a horizontal position prior to hanging the egde you should find the hang much easier. I would try this slowly though by easing the feet off the floor as it may well depend on your shoulder strength.
i've got a big cock
Quote from: travs on May 14, 2009, 10:24:03 amThere is a little trick to making one arm hangs a lot easier. If you engage the shoulder muscles as if you are trying to pull the opposite free shoulder up into a horizontal position prior to hanging the egde you should find the hang much easier. I would try this slowly though by easing the feet off the floor as it may well depend on your shoulder strength. Adam: I didn't realise you'd let your shoulders wither away ;-)
I'm at the 7a/7a+ end of the 7a-7c climbers that the board is aimed at and can only do hangs and repeaters on the big slots, 20 deg slopers, big pockets and a combination of the little edges/bigger edge on the bottom row.My board is mounted in an arch at home and there's a step 2ft back that I can use to take off a little weight with my toes on both or one foot so I'm using this assistance to do hangs and repeaters on the 35 degree slopers, back 2 fingers in pockets and small edges and have noticed gains in a week on these holds.I'm finding a stopwatch, detailed notes and sticking to the same regime really useful to gauge progress. The board itself is brilliant and very easy on the fingers if you use it right. I also reckon a major step forward is in the experimenting that Dan and Ned have done on different grip types and how to train. It sounds a bit daft but based on what I've done so far I just know that I'm going to get better at climbing over the next year because of the way the board and the training is structured and that is a big motivator.Simon - I've done a couple of hour long sessions early morning before work and then gone climbing in the evening feeling recovered.
What does it all mean?
Quote from: mctrials23 on May 14, 2009, 12:13:13 pmWhat does it all mean?It means that fingerboarding isn't the be all and end all in climbing.
Do you rate Swissballs serpico?They've always seemed like a bit of a gimmick to me in the way they're generally used. If you're doing Chest press then that should be the focus, not secondary core work?
Quote from: travs on May 14, 2009, 10:24:03 amThere is a little trick to making one arm hangs a lot easier. If you engage the shoulder muscles as if you are trying to pull the opposite free shoulder up into a horizontal position prior to hanging the egde you should find the hang much easier. I would try this slowly though by easing the feet off the floor as it may well depend on your shoulder strength. Are you able to explain this any differently, as I am having trouble trying to picture this, mind you, would struggle to hang 16.3 stone on anything