[BB]

I've just read the latest update on the the beastmaker blogspot and it looks like the fingerboard to end all fingerboards is tantalisingly close to production!

Anyone else have their name on the list?

[Paul B]

just a few...

[BB]

I'm not talking about "the register" 

[Monolith]

With their influx, I'm expecting market saturation to lead to yet more downgrades. Who cares, if Superman V2 can come to feel 6a, I'm happy.

[carlisle slapper]

first board was made this evening, pics will be up on the blog tomorrow, would have been up tonight but Ned's obviously too busy filling his head with useless biology facts for his exams.

just a few tiny adjustments (the pockets are 3mm out) and they'll be ready.
could be a good time for Ru and Dan to give an honest review if they feel like it, as they have the 99% finished ones?
Rich & lee you have the model before that doesn't quite have as much rounding on the pockets.
we've shrunk the pockets by 2mm since the last model, and increased rounding to 12mm radius, the monos are even more ergonomic also and the 3 finger pockets on top have 12mm round too.
I.e. its super comfy to do 1 arm pocket repeaters/encores

I'll be contacting people on the back order list personally and giving you a private payment address, some of you will have to wait until we get back from font i'm afraid. The payment info will then be made public/normal web purchase protocol once the back order is clear (this will be towards the end of february).

Thanks for everyones patience at our ineptness with deadlines, i got one rather smarmy email off one person (who clearly doesn't know much about cordiality and preserving their place in a queue) and thats it, can't wait to see a pandemic of Beast-itis hit the UK with avengence, malcs one armer will be a polished warm up  (unless your names Moger and it is already)

Core climbing holds are just getting going too, which is going to be awesome

a very happy
mr V

[The Sausage]

Much as I think we should all support the beastmaker boys and part with our hard earned cash, I think the belief that there is some sure fire route to strength and success is completely misguided. The only variables you can control are effort, motivation, planning and effort again. Similarly, if you buy a beastmaker (and if you need a new fingerboard, you should), and do your project, it's down to you, not a piece of wood.

[a dense loner]

very wise words indeed, for a minute i thought my beastmaker was going to do the climbing for me. dan maybe in the instructions you have a similar worded caveat to what the sausage has pointed out

[SA Chris]

So you don't just plug it into a lightning conductor, insert your fingers into the monos, wait for a lightning strike and hey presto beast!?

Mr v, please cancel my order. The name is misleading.

[BB]

Excellent news Dan 

got one rather smarmy email off one person (who clearly doesn't know much about cordiality and preserving their place in a queue) and thats it,

I'm just re-examining my last email to you and i'm pretty sure my genuine enthusiasm couldn't have been misinterpreted as smarm!  Phew!

[carlisle slapper]

Joe speaks the truth, stuff doesn't happen by magic and its really easy to plateau when training hard, i wish someone would make a training device where, when stood under it you can see exactly what your bad at and areas of weakness which need addressed, once these are ironed out you then need new goals to prevent stagnation, in climbing finger strength is the foundation of this as it attaches you to the rock.

I wish i could train out all the imbalances in my hand on slopers,pockets & crimps using a campus rung but it takes alot of imagination to do so. Imagination which isn't always there at 5 in the evening before tea time or after a washed out day at the crag.

I don't think anyone on here takes a bit of playful tounge in cheek hyperbole seriously as most people arent completely delusional. What they should take seriously is a scientific method approach to fingerboarding (as anal as you think it may be) which has been delivering consistent results for me for the last 3 years i've been training on my own board, i've gone from barely being able to hang off 1 arm on the jug for repeaters to dragging a 10mm edge on repeaters as the end of my warm up. Next goal is to do it on the small pockets and so on and so on....

there is no "sure fire way to success" but last time i checked Lance Armstrong wasn't riding the tour on a penny farthing, he's got a carbon fibre wind tunnel tested machine with more investment in it than the whole of the history of rock climbing.

ALOT of effort, planning and more effort has gone into the creation of these as i geniunely wanted something better to train on, you don't build a motorised 4 axis CAD CAM machine by accident or with the incentive of a "quick buck" you build it to manipulate a smooth solid medium (wood) into angles that are otherwise impossible to uniformly create with other powertools

Joe's right, but hopefully the above should give an indication of where we're coming from. The buck doesn't stop here either with development...

if your seriously into training you'll need a pulley, counterweights, countdown timers and alot of motivation.

[richdraws]

Get some more videos up on your site, with better lighting too and perhaps some oil?

[Paul B]

i wish someone would make a training device where, when stood under it you can see exactly what your bad at and areas of weakness which need addressed

Last night was my first real deadhanging session and the board did just that.

[Stubbs]

Bring on the narrow avoidance of finger injuries, I'm fuckin psyched to get hanging. 

[mctrials23]

It has been so long since the board was announced that I have convinced myself that when I finally get one it will make me like Malcolm Smith only stronger. I have based my whole training or lack there of recently on the arrival of the beastmaker.

Im slightly worried that im going to have to face up to the fact that im weak and puny and that a fingerboard, however sweet it may be, will not make me a beast.

Hopefully I should be on the shortlist for one of the first ones so will report back on the board as soon as I have had a week or so with it.

[The Sausage]

I just want to be clear that I am in no way being negative about the beastmaker. I think Dan's achievements prove it's worth. And I'll be buying one at some point I'm sure. I think Fingerboards are the most important training tool for climbers, and obviously having the best one out there is the way to go.

My post came about because we had been talking about the diet industry, and how people shop around for the 'right' diet, i.e. the one where they can eat all they want to, and lose weight. Exactly, it doesn't exist. As Dan says, it can be hard to be imaginative in your training after work, but his is where my point about planning (and goal setting) comes in. Devise your training plan on a sunday morning after some strong coffee. Write it down. Then stick to it on a tusday night, when you're feeling a bit knackered.

Take care out there...

[dave]

wise words there - i'm looking forward to the deadhanging chapter in your autobiography.

[Paul B]

Ok... I picked my board up this evening and I'm thoroughly impressed:

I think the pictures speak for themselves really all I will say is; I was impressed with the Moon fingerboard when that came out, this blows it out of the water!

[Ru]

Awesome, good to see the Beastmakers are being unleashed.

I fully rate mine, but I'm busy getting ready for tomorrow's case so I can't write a full review now, although I have one half finished. I'll post one up as soon as I have a chance.

[BB]

Sweet. I can't wait for that special email from Mr. V!!

[north_country_boy]

Great News for the Masses who weren't lucky enough to get one of the last batch! 

Had mine for about 3months and have been mightly impressed with it.....I will try post a bit more detail and opinion when I have more time.

However, If anyone is in two minds whether to buy a fingerboard/beastmaker, then believe me Its a  I'd say its made a fairly significant additional contribution to my climbing/training routine

Good work Guys, not sure how its going to effect my ability to hang in a pair of axes next week though!!!??

[slackline]

I think the pictures speak for themselves really all I will say is; I was impressed with the Moon fingerboard when that came out, this blows it out of the water!

I see the new cameras working pretty well too.

[Paul B]

I see the new cameras working pretty well too.

Ah you noticed? I've got a shed load to learn but I like it a lot!

[shark]

How hardcore is this fingerboard ? Would you have to be able to, say, one arm deadhang a first joint edge to get anything out of it ?

[Paul B]

No simon it would be fine for you.
Almost everything I've done on it so far has been 2 handed.

[Three Nine]

How much do they cost?