[Charles]

One of my new years resolutions (formed during a particularly grim hangover on New Years Day) was to not drink for the whole of January and I've stuck to it so far.

Despite a heavy Christmas of eating and drinking and not much climbing (climbed 4 times between the 24th December and the 7th January and most were very light bumbly sessions) I went to Stoney last Tuesday and did a 7b+ amongst other problems when normally I can just about manage one 7a+ in a session.

I did train and climb loads in November/December so I'm just wondering how much this improvement could be attributed to proper rest or just abstinence from alcohol. Its also worth noting that last time I checked (a week and a bit ago) I'd lost 4lbs since stopping drinking.

So I was wondering:

Do people find it hard to gain improvements while still consuming a large amount of alcohol? Going for a pint after a climb does seem fairly obligatory, but how much do people drink during a training cycle?

When I start drinking again, can I expect a reversal of the improvement I've seen?

[Richie Crouch]

I too have often wondered about the links between alcohol intake and performance in climbing. Yesterday I was feeling about 50% after consuming a bottle of red the night before and climbed terribly. In the past I have gone to the same venue on a similar level of intoxication and had some of my best days out 

I think getting enough quality rest days and sleep makes a bigger difference and a low to zero alcohol intake is probably beneficial (once you convince yourself in your mind that it really doesn't lead to greater performance due to previous successes)! I used to think curry and beer the night before led to climbing well, but have had more success with a good meal and sleeping instead.

I reckon it is hard to make comparisons as to how much you have improved, unless you go back on the same problems you may have struggled on before Christmas time (in your new state of being lighter and feeling more alert/healthier)? Then you also have conditions, temperature, boot choice and diet to factor in  ???

[Charles]

I reckon it is hard to make comparisons as to how much you have improved, unless you go back on the same problems you may have struggled on before Christmas time (in your new state of being lighter and feeling more alert/healthier)? Then you also have conditions, temperature, boot choice and diet to factor in  ???

Thats a fair point - I've never been to Stoney before, haven't bouldered on limestone for ages, had brand new Anasazi V2s (which are amazing) and it was the best conditions I've felt on limestone before. So it could be any of those factors too.

I spent most of last night googling for studies on Alcohol and Sport Performance (instead of writing my essay so I could go climbing today ) and most seem to think that hand/eye co-ordination can be impaired up to 24 hours after drinking and that athletes shouldn't drink for 72 hours before a competition. On the other hand, a recent article in runner's world extols the virtues of a pint of beer for recovery!

[Nibile]

sadly, apart from the useless pleasure of taste, alcohol does good to almost nothing.
some red wine (very little, like no more than 0,25 liters a day) is shown to have good effects against heart and pressure problems. for everything else excessive drinking is just bad for health.
i too have had great days out after getting drunk the night before, but why do i remember them so well? because they've been very few. the amount of bad, hungover days at the crag is far bigger.
one pint after climbing is a treat, it is due, esp. after a send.
in your case, i think the weight loss and gained fitness from not drinking are a plus that made the trick.

to answer your questions.
i think it's very hard to really improve if drinking too much. a healthy body (esp. the liver) just works better, plus the liver takes a big part in taking the effort of the training.
i also think that probably getting back into drinking will affect future perfs.
i can't drink much, because i get horrible headaches even with just two pints. i think my body doesn't want alcohol.

finally: if you drink much, and you still improve, think about how much more you could improve without drinking.

[Houdini]

Alcohol and training is shit:

~ The dehydration factor, it's a recipe for injury. 
~ 75 calories in a glass of red wine, you can see how easy it is to exceed your calorific requirements. 
~ Crapulence:  a bastard behind the eyes drills your motivation.
 
Another thing I was told recently (I'd prefer it if you googled this as I can't be arsed) is a that the carbs contained within alcoholic beverages are not easily metabolised by muscle.

~ It's great for getting laid though.   

[Adam Lincoln]

~ It's great for getting laid though.   

  

[chillax]

I don't know about alcohol affecting my ability to train, unfortunately I know all too well how training affects my ability to drink. Many a messy night has resulted from the combination of the 2!

From left to right:

[Nibile]

houd,
alcohol calories are also called "empty" calories, because they are deprived of any nutritive factor and are just metabolized and stored as fat.

[GCW]

Shock !! Horror!!!
I'm limited to one beer per day maximum.
It's a killer 

[cuboard]

Whats a matter with you ..... fucking pussies.. simon nadin onsighting 8a/8a+ at ceuse .... totally hammered

We would sit in a gite in south of france ..smoke shit load of dope, shirtless and shitfaced... get up and climb 8b

beer and talent go together,,.. 

[Paul B]

houd,
alcohol calories are also called "empty" calories, because they are deprived of any nutritive factor and are just metabolized and stored as fat.

I'm not quite sure thats strictly true:

"Alcohol has about 7 calories per gram. These are considered "empty" calories because alcohol contains no beneficial nutrients, such as vitamins and minerals."

it still does provide energy and will only be stored as fat if this energy is surplus to requirements. I think the problem lies when vast quantities are drunk relatively quickly, energy demands are met and thus you pile on some chub. The same can be said of a vast number of sugary foods and drinks.

I've gone through various stages of being; serious about climbing/overly serious/having fun which corresponds to not drinking except for special occasions/not drinking/heavily enjoying drink. The fact that i'm a lightweight (in all ways) however has meant it has had no noticeable effect on my ability. Having said that, I'd avoid drinking after training unless I was looking for a quick way to get blatted.

 

(currently enjoying a celebratory "Honeydew".... Mmmmm)