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Wall left of New Statesman climbed (Read 18189 times)

Jaspersharpe

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#25 Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
January 12, 2009, 08:24:59 am
Amazing.

SA Chris

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#26 Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
January 12, 2009, 08:36:36 am
Lanky streak off piss.

Definitely small man's complex there. At least if you can't  reach you can just say it's impossible and do a variation finish. Then downgrade it :)

dave

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#27 Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
January 12, 2009, 09:08:05 am
do we have a name for this one yet?

Bonjoy

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#28 Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
January 12, 2009, 10:44:10 am
Gerty Berwick i think. It's the name chipped into the rock at the bottom.

dave

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#29 Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
January 12, 2009, 10:47:59 am
we have a winner:



Worst Route Name Ever

seriously, i hope you're shitting me.

Doylo

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#30 Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
January 12, 2009, 11:02:26 am
Lanky streak off piss.

Definitely small man's complex there. At least if you can't  reach you can just say it's impossible and do a variation finish. Then downgrade it :)

Nah i just like abusing the Quill even though i love him  :shag:

Fiend

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#31 Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
January 12, 2009, 11:10:56 am
What Dave said.

Johnny Brown

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#32 Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
January 12, 2009, 12:23:14 pm
I like it, a damn sight better than most recently.

dave

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#33 Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
January 12, 2009, 12:24:42 pm
Are you using paint stripper in a confined space again?

Blunk

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#34 Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
January 12, 2009, 10:54:19 pm
The wall has been tried many times by climbers including Steve McClure, James Pearson, Steve Dunning and Jerry Moffatt to name but a few... Both Moffatt and Dunning thought it would never be climbed, making Ryan's achievement even more impressive.


Wow.

The line looks absolutely stunning in the photos I've seen.

Being rather morpho myself (6'7") I am even more impressed. I have only done a few problems no-one else could manage because of the reachiness involved. There's nearly always a way around a long reach, that the very best climbers have failed on this reallys says something. Respect!

(not to imply any top-level climbers have ever tried any of my obscure variations!)
« Last Edit: January 12, 2009, 11:09:10 pm by Blunk, Reason: a humorous second thought »

n_man

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#35 Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
January 13, 2009, 02:29:25 am
And Moffatt or Dunning are quite tall themselves  :wave:

Andy F

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#36 Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
January 13, 2009, 08:31:17 am
And Stunning has a big span as well, which show's how impressive Ry's ascent is.

n_man

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#37 Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
January 13, 2009, 09:24:44 am
Indeed. Dunne was spied trying it a few times with full out dynos and he was quite a big lad.

Idol eyes

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#38 Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
January 13, 2009, 08:02:59 pm
Me and JD tried this on the best conditions ever... JD waltzed it only to fail on the final crux... I struggled to do the start... Wicked piece of wall! Great effort.

Percy B

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#39 Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
January 13, 2009, 08:10:56 pm
Indeed. Dunne was spied trying it a few times with full out dynos and he was quite a big lad.

I'm not sure Dunney's sort of 'size' was of the helpful kind on this route. It would have helped if he'd been a bit taller.....















........and eaten a bit less at tea-time

Will Hunt

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Ste

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#41 Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
January 13, 2009, 08:57:02 pm
Really impressive stuff...


The comments about this route and its morpho nature are a bit miss-leading - Its just plain hard no matter how tall you are. The dyno to the jug is relatively easy, maybe 7b+ from what I remember. The next move (crux) is a desperate move off a terrible edge and would not be  significantly easier for a lanky climber. I would have thought that anyone of average height would have equal chance.

When I tried this route (7 years ago) I couldn't really move on the crux and just gave up.

Steve

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#42 Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
January 17, 2009, 05:23:34 pm
Any chance we're going to get video of this soon?

Adam Lincoln

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#43 Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
January 17, 2009, 05:34:34 pm
Any chance we're going to get video of this soon?

No one filming.

Doylo

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#44 Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
January 17, 2009, 05:37:05 pm
Really impressive stuff...


The comments about this route and its morpho nature are a bit miss-leading - Its just plain hard no matter how tall you are. The dyno to the jug is relatively easy, maybe 7b+ from what I remember. The next move (crux) is a desperate move off a terrible edge and would not be  significantly easier for a lanky climber. I would have thought that anyone of average height would have equal chance.

When I tried this route (7 years ago) I couldn't really move on the crux and just gave up.

Steve

Nice one Master Dunning. Fair do's to the Quill then. What a beast!

Johnny Brown

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#45 Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
January 17, 2009, 09:37:26 pm
even heard today he onsighted the hardest section on top-rope. m-o-n-s-t-e-r

Adam Lincoln

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#46 Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
January 19, 2009, 05:21:31 pm
Any chance we're going to get video of this soon?

No one filming.

Was wrong about that. There was a couple of camera on him for the ascent. Filmed for Posing Productions.

 

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