[Yossarian]

Right, some questions about my (currently hypothetical) new woodie.

On the basis that I should have quite a bit more room available and would like to construct something more ambitious in both scale and scope than I've done previously, I would be interested to hear what people would build if they had more space.

If you had space for, say, between 3 and 5 8ft wide boards, what would you build? 

Would you prefer the boards to run along a (very) long wall, with variations in angles along it? Or would a cave area with boards on three sides and possibly a roof section appeal more?

Thoughts on multi-angled section / unusual shapes?

I've got the general interior style bit all sorted you'll be pleased to hear.  Think a mixture of Marc Newson and Karim Rashid, globular green light fittings, white poured resin floor, big Josh Cole print on the wall, Chick Corea on the stereo, drowning out the noise of my bank manager beating down the door...

[Paul B]

56 deg board
28 deg board
12 deg cragx board
Barrel board (like the old foundry one) preferably with all of the nice pusher holds they had...

Simple.

[robertostallioni]

Thought about this myself, if I had carte blanche to create a large woodie, what would I do? If I was into my bouldering more, I would go for the Paul B option without doubt. Short, hard, up problems on varying angled boards. But, most of my climbing is routes, and focus on the transitions between angles. Therefore my 'boarded room', incorporating 45', 30', c'brook corner, prow & roof suits perfectly, (see end of Boardshare thread). The perfect setup would no doubt be a larger version, such as 'Blocage' in Font. Mwah Mwah Mwah

[philo]

any sort of cave normally has bridging  so go for the above! (no experience on making)

[Yossarian]

56 deg board
28 deg board
12 deg cragx board
Barrel board (like the old foundry one) preferably with all of the nice pusher holds they had...

Simple.

barrel as in...?  like a big convex bulge thing? 

i like these precision numbers though. 

[Paul B]

starts of as a roof and flattens out to almost vertical. It means you can have some truly rubbish holds at the top with your feet well underneath you requiring tension...

[davej]

 think i'll add a crag x board to my setup what size kick board would you suggest?

[Yossarian]

the crag x board i kind of get. 

is the barrel a similar deal, but with a curved upper section rather than the flat 12deg bit?

hold on - maybe i can draw something.

[Yossarian]

is this right?

[robertostallioni]

There's no need to go to that kind of expense Yossarian. Correct, but the 'depth' of the barrell will be much more that the cragx board.  More Giant Haystacks, less Phil Taylor.

[Paul B]

sack off the kickboard on the cragx board. Hanging starts.

[philo]

if i was to make a barrel board id want to try something like this 3 different sort of angles, steep to flat to a bit of a slab, im not sure how difficult and strong it would be to build but

[Paul B]

you can't buy shit enough holds for the slab bit. Vertical.

[Houdini]

you can't buy shit enough holds for the slab bit. Vertical.

But you can make holds 3mm thin.  I know I can, why can't you?

20° leaning inward slab, 20° overhanging wall.  And one 35 - 45° overhanging arete, pinchable.  And a very obtuse overhanging groove covered in coovar.  No Chick Corea.

[Paul B]

I could also screw a cheese grater above the doorframe instead of a fingerboard but i'm not about to. The works put up some thin slab problems and they're great new but just get ruined by boot rubber and chalk thats my point. Someone posted a piccie of some indoor wall that had slab topouts, long enough to get your mantle on. Now thats a good idea!

[Houdini]

Oh you want finger friendly like a 3mm hold is on rock...  mkay...  One that moisturizes...  Can do...

[Paul B]

Your missing the point. Just like the people that use Gritstone textured holds down the wall, I dont want to unnecessarily loose skin. Holds that cause that kind of problem have no place on a woodie just like you get sharp jugs that you slap to sometimes, you wouldn't replicate that for shits and giggles would you?

[Yossarian]

like this then?

i did assume the crag x board only has holds on the 12deg bit, the mini roof and the kick board are just flat surfaces.

(the music stand is not necessarily to scale)

[nik at work]

I'd go for flat panels, as high as possible (i.e. high ceillings rule) along a wall. If you have width space for 5 boards I'd go for 2 at a steep angle, 3 at a not quite so steep angle. The angles are down to you. My board is a thirty which was ideal when I started using it but now I'd probably like a bit more steep (say forty-five to fifty sort of thing). Luckily I can fit that in without having to lose the thirty, which I still really like. Fifty-six is very steep, without meaning to be rude I'd suggest it may be too steep given your recent trip report.

Lots of T-nuts, loads.

[Yossarian]

Fifty-six is very steep, without meaning to be rude I'd suggest it may be too steep given your recent trip report.

I was, ummm, wearing boxing gloves. It was cold. Er, your honour...

[Houdini]

Your missing the point....    You wouldn't replicate that for shits and giggles would you?

I see no point.

 And Yes I would, for giggles.  Nodder posts on here and I've set problems at his wall, so I'll sit back and perhaps w/ luck he'll see this thread and describe the problems I've set.

[Yossarian]

i forgot the young strumpet...

[dave]

i seem to remember the school cragx board didn't even have a kickboard or aany ply under the roof, just effectively a hanging low-angle board. the cragx board in the edge woody did however have a kickboard with holds and a roof and was a good board - not sure which is actually best, in a limited space, hold for hold you'll get harder problems out of a non-kickboard wall i think, more intensive problems. on the other hand if you build a kickboard you've always got the option of eliminating it, so it doubles up as a board with easier problems too on the same handholds.

[Yossarian]

hmmm, interesting...

do people favour the idea of a transition of some sort between boards, or just having the steeper walls boxed in at the sides?

[dave]

if you've got anough space i recon transition it - its still climbable space, and stops you having an unusable enclosed corner section on the less-steep panel. remember no-one ever got strong by bridging.