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Broken finger (Read 1532 times)

chummer

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Broken finger
January 06, 2009, 01:35:25 pm
I broke the middle bone (near the main joint) in my ring finger just over 4 weeks ago and have just been told to stay off climbing for another 4-6 weeks by the doc at the fracture clinic. It's not too bad now, i did a few shakey pull ups on it last night (taped up), but it still feels injured, i definately couldn't see me using small holds for a fair while and am not thinking of climbing on it yet. I've been lucky enough never to have had a finger injury before so am new to the experience (although i have adapted well to this new life style culminating in joining the pool team in me local ale house), I was just wondering if anyone else has had a similar injury and if so share some knowledge on recovery time, rehabilitation/ starting back climbing, etc. Cheers, jon

dave

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#1 Re: Broken finger
January 06, 2009, 01:43:36 pm
I once broke a finger years before starting to climb, so you can rest assured that once its healed properly it shouldn't give you any lasting agro, unlike a tendon injury. no idea about recovery times.

jordysi

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#2 Re: Broken finger
January 06, 2009, 04:26:53 pm
broke mine (week before a font trip) did a lot of rehab to get it moving, straightening, and bending (usually under warm water).  Lots of hot and cold and then it was really a case of listening to it, and doing what the pain would allow, but pushing it where I could- back climbing properly after about 2 months.   

chummer

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#3 Re: Broken finger
January 06, 2009, 04:54:28 pm
Cheers for that jordysi, much appreciated. When you say you were climbing properly after 2 months did you mean you had already started doing some climbing before this or that you rested it for 2 months then got straight into it? Will start the hot/cold thing this eve. :goodidea:

jordysi

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#4 Re: Broken finger
January 07, 2009, 10:18:34 am
err I've never really climbed "properly" as anyone who has climbed with me will agree with.   I didn't really ever stop I just had it taped to my little finger and climbed on 2 fingers, but I was I would say back to normal... i did keep taping it just for protection (or maybe just psychological) but I saw a good physio who understood climbers and climbing... fatdoc will be able to recommend a couple in sheff if that's where you are

 

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