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Repeats (Read 12176 times)

Percy B

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Repeats
January 05, 2009, 08:39:29 pm
Word on the street is that Dan Variable has repeated Gaskins Little Women in Kentmere. 8a+ my arse....!!!
Word on Swiss street is that Micky Page has dispatched The Dagger - steady away at 8b+....
Oh, and word on Bishop high street is that Alex Puccio has done Maze of Death at the Bardini's. That'll be her 4th 8a+ then.

GCW

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#1 Re: Repeats
January 05, 2009, 08:43:31 pm
8a+ my arse....!!!

Excellent, needed a repeat.
Word on the street was the 8a+ was SoC's grade, then when JG did it he didn't bother to offer an alternative.

Andy F

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#2 Re: Repeats
January 05, 2009, 10:28:56 pm


Excellent, needed a repeat.
Word on the street was the 8a+ was SoC's grade, then when JG did it he didn't bother to offer an alternative.
[/quote]

Eh? The mysterious one that shall not be named actually climbed something? Is it April 1st already...

GCW

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#3 Re: Repeats
January 05, 2009, 10:33:18 pm
I meant the grade he offered, Andy.  Never said anything about him actually climbing :lol:

Thinking about it, he may have suggested 8a, and 8a+ for the low start.  But I may be wrong.

robertostallioni

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#4 Re: Repeats
January 05, 2009, 10:48:57 pm
8a matches the news item on lakesloc G.

GCW

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#5 Re: Repeats
January 06, 2009, 12:06:14 am
Cheers, hadn't seen that.

Paul B

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#6 Re: Repeats
January 06, 2009, 12:17:58 am
picture of the line for anyone like me who couldn't errr picture it:


(might not work as the URL has the word secure in it)

https://secure.mmm.co.uk/sei/s/1284/497.jpg

Jaspersharpe

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#7 Re: Repeats
January 06, 2009, 08:34:13 am
To put things in perspective on his excellent blog Dan says that Little Women is "probably the single hardest move and problem I've done".

And "To me the crux of this is harder than any move on: Superman, the ace, voyager, bloodsport, a bigger belly, and any foreign problem i've ever done a move on, it probably just doesn't suit me though and i didn't even need to diet or train too specifically."

This is quite a big achievement methinks.

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#8 Re: Repeats
January 06, 2009, 08:39:51 am
Superb work Carlisle.
Let's not forget to bow down and worship the Big G too.

I eagerly await a repeat of the low start.

v1

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#9 Re: Repeats
January 06, 2009, 10:58:49 am
Word on Swiss street is that Micky Page has dispatched The Dagger - steady away at 8b+....

Also heard that he did confessions (8b+) in a session


Jaspersharpe

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#10 Re: Repeats
January 06, 2009, 12:32:03 pm
World class.

philo

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#11 Re: Repeats
January 06, 2009, 06:54:53 pm
he is an inspiration, good craic aswell

saltbeef

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#12 Re: Repeats
January 06, 2009, 08:31:01 pm
Tried little women and failed to do 2 moves. Almost did the move to the crystal pocket but the move from the minuscule RH edge to the LH sidepull was beyond me. I could barely pull on. Now I’m not to shabby on RH crimps but this move was heinous and that’s after the start and fish which is no push over. This cannot be 8a+. It must be at least solid 8b and not the Swiss variety. Anyone repeated this or grade consensus.

hmmm...

Doylo

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#13 Re: Repeats
January 06, 2009, 09:38:08 pm
Michael Page, rising star of world bouldering anyone? And he lives in Sunderland!

philo

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#14 Re: Repeats
January 06, 2009, 09:58:37 pm
aye i thought Sunderland too, none of this geordie bollocks!  rising star, defiantly he has always been another level.

Paul B

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#15 Re: Repeats
January 06, 2009, 10:01:22 pm
I'm surprised a Maccem hadn't clarified that earlier!

Terrace Ghost

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#16 Re: Repeats
January 06, 2009, 10:21:43 pm
Sunderland Doyle?

you try saying that to his face

Doylo

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#17 Re: Repeats
January 06, 2009, 10:36:29 pm
Sunderland Doyle?

you try saying that to his face

i did ;D

got the dagg on film , watch this space

Stubbs

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#18 Re: Repeats
January 07, 2009, 09:48:47 am

Jaspersharpe

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#19 Re: Repeats
January 07, 2009, 09:59:36 am
What a start to the year. British bouldering standards - definitely NOT SHIT!

dave

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#20 Re: Repeats
January 07, 2009, 10:02:54 am
for fucks sake jasper, its not about how hard they climb, its about how many pullups they can do. get a grip man.

Percy B

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#21 Re: Repeats
January 07, 2009, 10:22:37 am
Tim Clifford repeated The Swarm (8b+) in the Buttermilks on Monday. I don't know how many pull-ups he can do though

dave

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SA Chris

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#23 Re: Repeats
January 07, 2009, 10:48:52 am
echo echo.

Good work the blurr boy.

Doylo

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#24 Re: Repeats
January 09, 2009, 11:02:44 am
Some footage of the Dagger here.

moose

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#25 Re: Repeats
January 09, 2009, 02:26:02 pm
Please let that be the trailer for a feature-length portion of climbing filth: the world needs a new West Coast Gimps / Stoned Love.  Those Dosage films are all very well but frankly lack the obscenity and unsettling imagery of the classics. 

Incidently, did Micky Page ever manage Cypher? I saw him on it ages ago and would like to think that his commitment in getting a step-ladder all the way up that hill was eventually rewarded.  Although it was initially very disconcerting to see 6ft of B&Q's finest teetering amongst the natural glories.

TomP

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#26 Re: Repeats
January 09, 2009, 03:13:48 pm
Incidently, did Micky Page ever manage Cypher? I saw him on it ages ago and would like to think that his commitment in getting a step-ladder all the way up that hill was eventually rewarded.  Although it was initially very disconcerting to see 6ft of B&Q's finest teetering amongst the natural glories.

As far as I'm aware only Moon, Dunning and Earl have done it. I've been very close recently but haven't climbed for a month really so need to shape up to nail it. It's the only thing I'm psyched for at the mo.

moose

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#27 Re: Repeats
January 09, 2009, 03:35:43 pm
Oh well, I was hoping that since Micky Page is such an unassuming beast he'd managed it but it wasn't widely known.

Good luck with your own attempt anyway: it's a beautiful line regardless of the technical challenge it represents.

Doylo

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#28 Re: Repeats
January 09, 2009, 03:37:18 pm
Please let that be the trailer for a feature-length portion of climbing filth: the world needs a new West Coast Gimps / Stoned Love.  Those Dosage films are all very well but frankly lack the obscenity and unsettling imagery of the classics. 

Incidently, did Micky Page ever manage Cypher? I saw him on it ages ago and would like to think that his commitment in getting a step-ladder all the way up that hill was eventually rewarded.  Although it was initially very disconcerting to see 6ft of B&Q's finest teetering amongst the natural glories.

If its climbing filth your after i'll sort you the Hueco film, I think its quite tame but Paul B was so shocked he gave it away! Some people  :shrug: The swiss stuff is mainly hard cranking i'm afraid. Not sure i'll ever match Stoned Love/West Coast again Moose. Don't think Micks done Cypher, but you never know with that one.

moose

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#29 Re: Repeats
January 09, 2009, 04:19:26 pm
Cheers fella, I need some motivational climbing footage to keep my mojo simmering until the weather warms.   I'm currently setting a record for numb-fingered crag retreats that resembles Le Grande Armee's winter tour of Moscow. 

Don't worry about any disappointment on the affront-to-decency front; it's not really the rabelaisian filth that I enjoy so much as the sheer sense of enjoyment that accompanies the hard cranking.  Many climbing films seem to focus on making the progagonists look as gracefully enigmatic as possible - the viewer forgets about the fun.

philo

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#30 Re: Repeats
January 09, 2009, 09:41:18 pm
Oh well, I was hoping that since Micky Page is such an unassuming beast he'd managed it but it wasn't widely known.

Good luck with your own attempt anyway: it's a beautiful line regardless of the technical challenge it represents.
and aparently it was newman who took the ladder up there haha

Paul B

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#31 Re: Repeats
January 09, 2009, 10:18:05 pm
Please let that be the trailer for a feature-length portion of climbing filth: the world needs a new West Coast Gimps / Stoned Love.  Those Dosage films are all very well but frankly lack the obscenity and unsettling imagery of the classics. 

Incidently, did Micky Page ever manage Cypher? I saw him on it ages ago and would like to think that his commitment in getting a step-ladder all the way up that hill was eventually rewarded.  Although it was initially very disconcerting to see 6ft of B&Q's finest teetering amongst the natural glories.

If its climbing filth your after i'll sort you the Hueco film, I think its quite tame but Paul B was so shocked he gave it away! Some people  :shrug: The swiss stuff is mainly hard cranking i'm afraid. Not sure i'll ever match Stoned Love/West Coast again Moose. Don't think Micks done Cypher, but you never know with that one.

To be fair, I was crippled at the time, watched it and then Helen and Nige rocked up and asked if they could borrow it, I said they might as well keep it as I'd seen it and they're actually in it.
Looking at a giant turd, mule and his various gimp sequences etc. aren't on the top of my list for content in a climbing film. Just imagine that to dense "How did it feeeeelll?"

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#32 Re: Repeats
January 09, 2009, 11:44:40 pm
Cypher is a fucking ace line.

Why isn't there more chalk on the arch project? And all that shit at the Nth cloud.

Doylo

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#33 Re: Repeats
January 10, 2009, 01:53:01 am
Looking at a giant turd, mule and his various gimp sequences etc. aren't on the top of my list for content in a climbing film.

Does this man you won't be interested in purchasing the doylo box-set? You should stick to dosage mate, i've heard its turd free :yawn:

Paul B

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#34 Re: Repeats
January 10, 2009, 10:35:34 pm
Why isn't there more chalk on the arch project? And all that shit at the Nth cloud.

'cos its nails?

Does this man you won't be interested in purchasing the doylo box-set? You should stick to dosage mate, i've heard its turd free :yawn:

to the contrary, these days its full of turd!

n_man

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#35 Re: Repeats
January 13, 2009, 02:35:45 am

 

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