UKBouldering.com

Repeats (Read 12178 times)

Percy B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1292
  • Karma: +95/-2
    • www.climbingworks.com
Repeats
January 05, 2009, 08:39:29 pm
Word on the street is that Dan Variable has repeated Gaskins Little Women in Kentmere. 8a+ my arse....!!!
Word on Swiss street is that Micky Page has dispatched The Dagger - steady away at 8b+....
Oh, and word on Bishop high street is that Alex Puccio has done Maze of Death at the Bardini's. That'll be her 4th 8a+ then.

GCW

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • No longer a
  • Posts: 8172
  • Karma: +364/-38
#1 Re: Repeats
January 05, 2009, 08:43:31 pm
8a+ my arse....!!!

Excellent, needed a repeat.
Word on the street was the 8a+ was SoC's grade, then when JG did it he didn't bother to offer an alternative.

Andy F

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1989
  • Karma: +129/-13
  • Ex-ex-climber
#2 Re: Repeats
January 05, 2009, 10:28:56 pm


Excellent, needed a repeat.
Word on the street was the 8a+ was SoC's grade, then when JG did it he didn't bother to offer an alternative.
[/quote]

Eh? The mysterious one that shall not be named actually climbed something? Is it April 1st already...

GCW

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • No longer a
  • Posts: 8172
  • Karma: +364/-38
#3 Re: Repeats
January 05, 2009, 10:33:18 pm
I meant the grade he offered, Andy.  Never said anything about him actually climbing :lol:

Thinking about it, he may have suggested 8a, and 8a+ for the low start.  But I may be wrong.

robertostallioni

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2285
  • Karma: +197/-2
#4 Re: Repeats
January 05, 2009, 10:48:57 pm
8a matches the news item on lakesloc G.

GCW

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • No longer a
  • Posts: 8172
  • Karma: +364/-38
#5 Re: Repeats
January 06, 2009, 12:06:14 am
Cheers, hadn't seen that.

Paul B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 9644
  • Karma: +266/-4
#6 Re: Repeats
January 06, 2009, 12:17:58 am
picture of the line for anyone like me who couldn't errr picture it:


(might not work as the URL has the word secure in it)

https://secure.mmm.co.uk/sei/s/1284/497.jpg

Jaspersharpe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1B punter
  • Posts: 12344
  • Karma: +600/-20
  • Allez Oleeeve!
#7 Re: Repeats
January 06, 2009, 08:34:13 am
To put things in perspective on his excellent blog Dan says that Little Women is "probably the single hardest move and problem I've done".

And "To me the crux of this is harder than any move on: Superman, the ace, voyager, bloodsport, a bigger belly, and any foreign problem i've ever done a move on, it probably just doesn't suit me though and i didn't even need to diet or train too specifically."

This is quite a big achievement methinks.

GCW

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • No longer a
  • Posts: 8172
  • Karma: +364/-38
#8 Re: Repeats
January 06, 2009, 08:39:51 am
Superb work Carlisle.
Let's not forget to bow down and worship the Big G too.

I eagerly await a repeat of the low start.

v1

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 1
  • Karma: +0/-0
#9 Re: Repeats
January 06, 2009, 10:58:49 am
Word on Swiss street is that Micky Page has dispatched The Dagger - steady away at 8b+....

Also heard that he did confessions (8b+) in a session


Jaspersharpe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1B punter
  • Posts: 12344
  • Karma: +600/-20
  • Allez Oleeeve!
#10 Re: Repeats
January 06, 2009, 12:32:03 pm
World class.

philo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1090
  • Karma: +22/-9
#11 Re: Repeats
January 06, 2009, 06:54:53 pm
he is an inspiration, good craic aswell

saltbeef

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1456
  • Karma: +51/-5
#12 Re: Repeats
January 06, 2009, 08:31:01 pm
Tried little women and failed to do 2 moves. Almost did the move to the crystal pocket but the move from the minuscule RH edge to the LH sidepull was beyond me. I could barely pull on. Now I’m not to shabby on RH crimps but this move was heinous and that’s after the start and fish which is no push over. This cannot be 8a+. It must be at least solid 8b and not the Swiss variety. Anyone repeated this or grade consensus.

hmmm...

Doylo

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#13 Re: Repeats
January 06, 2009, 09:38:08 pm
Michael Page, rising star of world bouldering anyone? And he lives in Sunderland!

philo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1090
  • Karma: +22/-9
#14 Re: Repeats
January 06, 2009, 09:58:37 pm
aye i thought Sunderland too, none of this geordie bollocks!  rising star, defiantly he has always been another level.

Paul B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 9644
  • Karma: +266/-4
#15 Re: Repeats
January 06, 2009, 10:01:22 pm
I'm surprised a Maccem hadn't clarified that earlier!

Terrace Ghost

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 77
  • Karma: +3/-0
#16 Re: Repeats
January 06, 2009, 10:21:43 pm
Sunderland Doyle?

you try saying that to his face

Doylo

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#17 Re: Repeats
January 06, 2009, 10:36:29 pm
Sunderland Doyle?

you try saying that to his face

i did ;D

got the dagg on film , watch this space

Stubbs

  • Guest
#18 Re: Repeats
January 07, 2009, 09:48:47 am

Jaspersharpe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1B punter
  • Posts: 12344
  • Karma: +600/-20
  • Allez Oleeeve!
#19 Re: Repeats
January 07, 2009, 09:59:36 am
What a start to the year. British bouldering standards - definitely NOT SHIT!

dave

  • Guest
#20 Re: Repeats
January 07, 2009, 10:02:54 am
for fucks sake jasper, its not about how hard they climb, its about how many pullups they can do. get a grip man.

Percy B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1292
  • Karma: +95/-2
    • www.climbingworks.com
#21 Re: Repeats
January 07, 2009, 10:22:37 am
Tim Clifford repeated The Swarm (8b+) in the Buttermilks on Monday. I don't know how many pull-ups he can do though

dave

  • Guest

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29384
  • Karma: +638/-12
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#23 Re: Repeats
January 07, 2009, 10:48:52 am
echo echo.

Good work the blurr boy.

Doylo

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#24 Re: Repeats
January 09, 2009, 11:02:44 am
Some footage of the Dagger here.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal