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8c+ at 52 (Read 16473 times)

Falling Down

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#25 Re: 8c+ at 52
December 20, 2008, 05:20:26 pm
Wow. Well done Stevie.. amazing effort.  :great:

SA Chris

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#26 Re: 8c+ at 52
December 20, 2008, 06:27:08 pm
The Rockfather. Bon.

andy popp

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#27 Re: 8c+ at 52
December 21, 2008, 06:59:56 am
Incredible effort.

stom

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#28 Re: 8c+ at 52
December 21, 2008, 01:15:39 pm
Amazing effort Stevie! That's one of the most inspirational pieces of climbing I've heard about this year!

superfurrymonkey

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#29 Re: 8c+ at 52
December 21, 2008, 04:21:01 pm
Found this link from UKC of Sharma on it http://www.bigupproductions.com/#/vidplayer/Golpe_De_Estado/

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#30 Re: 8c+ at 52
December 21, 2008, 04:25:33 pm
Errrr not sure what happened there but for some reason thought this was an old clip of Sharma working what Stevie just did  :oops:

Palomides

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#31 Re: 8c+ at 52
December 21, 2008, 09:35:20 pm
I think this is the crag...


 :o Bravo Stevie

SA Chris

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#32 Re: 8c+ at 52
December 22, 2008, 07:58:44 am
Looks perfect for armchair climbers

n_man

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#33 Re: 8c+ at 52
December 22, 2008, 09:37:01 am
Awesome effort.

The picture might answer the question 'British standards shit or not shit' though.

SA Chris

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#34 Re: 8c+ at 52
December 22, 2008, 10:15:29 am
Has anyone come close to 8c+ at 52 btw? Ron Kauk?

Kingy

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#35 Re: 8c+ at 52
December 22, 2008, 10:22:39 am
Has anyone come close to 8c+ at 52 btw? Ron Kauk?

I think the only contender is that Manolo chap who redpointed the vertical Fred Nicole 8c+ Bain de Sang and then did a wierdly graded 8c/9a multipitch called 'For old Warriors only' or summat like that (bad translation). He is in his mid 50's I think? I think those were his 2 hardest although I might have missed one? However, Dave Graham has said that if Bain de Sang is 8c+ then Hubble is for sure 9a.

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#36 Re: 8c+ at 52
December 22, 2008, 10:34:56 am
Nice one stevie.  ;D

slackline

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#37 Re: 8c+ at 52
December 22, 2008, 10:47:24 am
Has anyone come close to 8c+ at 52 btw? Ron Kauk?

Obviously a few grade off but 8a at 59 by Al Austin and Rab Carrington (see "Never to Old" section)

SA Chris

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#38 Re: 8c+ at 52
December 22, 2008, 10:50:47 am

I think the only contender is that Manolo chap who redpointed the vertical Fred Nicole 8c+ Bain de Sang

Interesting. A spot off googling throws up that he was 48 when he did BdS in 1996.http://www.lasportiva.com/Magazine/inglese/realizzazioni/BainDeSang.htm

And if this was the other route, it looks like 1996 too http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews.lasso?keyid=35201&l=2

Still a wad though.

a dense loner

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#39 Re: 8c+ at 52
December 22, 2008, 10:52:05 am
lets keep at least one thread on track and not go off on a tangent comparing grades of other routes.

Kingy

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#40 Re: 8c+ at 52
December 22, 2008, 11:04:35 am
And if this was the other route, it looks like 1996 too http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews.lasso?keyid=35201&l=2

That one was 2006, I remember it from 2 years ago.

SA Chris

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#41 Re: 8c+ at 52
December 22, 2008, 11:07:40 am
So it was. "2006" is a clue.

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#42 Re: 8c+ at 52
December 22, 2008, 11:25:05 am
One of the most significant aspects of Stevie's achievement is that he could bear to spend a significant amount of time in that cave!  Unless it's changed from last year it is not the most salubrious of crags: seepy, smelly, and littered with shit.  I remember making a very quick RP of a 7a and then having to leave before my nauseated belayer killed me (I had to buy him lunch in Foix to assuage my guilt).  A very determined and impressive bit of climbing - all the hard lines were awe inspiring to look at - they just did not look physically possible - tiny knobbly holds on the steepest rock possible.

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#43 Re: 8c+ at 52
December 22, 2008, 05:12:33 pm
I think this is the crag...


 :o Bravo Stevie

Looks like Parisella's on steroids! Even the seats an echo of times past (i.e. 1983) when Moon, Freeman et al used to have 2CV seats set up in the cave.

Kingy

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#44 Re: 8c+ at 52
December 22, 2008, 10:48:31 pm
Actually it would appear we are doing Manolo a disservice by not reporting his ascent of Bimbaluna at St Loup in Jan this year, a route graded 9a or even 9a+  :o. he was actually 48 in Jan.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=281760

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#45 Re: 8c+ at 52
December 24, 2008, 09:06:49 am
Just got a text from a friend who has been to the crag says the routes like doing a 50m version of a v9 roof a hueco ie footwork+++++ mega impressive dave :thumbsup:

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#46 Re: 8c+ at 52
January 03, 2009, 01:12:45 pm
Awesome. I was wondering what happened stevie as he'd disappeared of the radar since his ote\climb articles. What a legend. There's hope for me yet. If I can improve half a grade a year for 25 years I might make 8c+ by 52 as well!

 

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