[Adam Lincoln]

Not really beta more a question. What is the hold like you go for from the start. Is it drilled or something?

Thanks.

[Jaspersharpe]

"really nice" according to dense.

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8348.msg127874.html#msg127874

[Paul B]

I'm taking it you mean the pocket as you can do it heel up I believe and go to the crimp first?... Its high on the hit list for next week Adam so i'll probably have had chance to check it out before you get out.

[Adam Lincoln]

I'm taking it you mean the pocket as you can do it heel up I believe and go to the crimp first?... Its high on the hit list for next week Adam so i'll probably have had chance to check it out before you get out.

Yeah the one you go to from the starting holds. Right, so it is a pocket. Two digits? Ill get on the campus board then!
Heal sounds interesting?

[Duma]

HEELHEELHEELHEELHEELHEELHEELHEELHEELHEELHEELHEELHEELHEELHEELHEELHEELHEELHEELHEELHEELHEELHEELHEELHEEL

 






Sorry, that really gets my goat.

Carry on.

[Adam Lincoln]

HEELHEELHEELHEELHEELHEELHEELHEELHEELHEELHEELHEELHEELHEELHEELHEELHEELHEELHEELHEELHEELHEELHEELHEELHEEL

Sorry, that really gets my goat.
Carry on.

Consider myself 'd

[Paul B]

Yeah the one you go to from the starting holds. Right, so it is a pocket. Two digits? Ill get on the campus board then!
Heal sounds interesting?

there's a video somewhere, probably bleau.info that shows it. I'd check now but my computer is kinda chugging away with something else. Slowly.

[Adam Lincoln]

Yeah the one you go to from the starting holds. Right, so it is a pocket. Two digits? Ill get on the campus board then!
Heal sounds interesting?

there's a video somewhere, probably bleau.info that shows it. I'd check now but my computer is kinda chugging away with something else. Slowly.

Seen a few vids now, and one with the heal. Looking forward to trying it. Good luck Paul, i expect nothing less than a flash from a school honed athlete as yourself.

[a dense loner]

flash. my arse

[Paul B]

flash. my arse

I'd rather not have you flash your arse baldy!

Adam - I seem to have some strain of -Man Flu- 

[a dense loner]

got mine thurs morn, felt shitty since. lower back is still killing me. you might get away with it in time for font. if you use the heel on fata i know where you live

[nik at work]

I kind of half fancied having a look at this when I'm over at easter but all this "good for strong people with no technique" talk is putting me off, especially the threats of a visit from Dense should I use a heel.
Anybody wanna throw me a frickin' bone here?

[neil h]

two points here

1st i think it is kinda technical
2nd Its the shittest problem in font

oh 3rd, paul we are putting together a big tick list for you, no time for fata, much more to go at 


is hotline still on?, conditions are mint and due to stay like this

[neil h]

by the way adam, a man or your calibar, the hold you go for is a jug, its just getting there thats the problem, shallow two finger pocket or if you have lady fingers 3, of like me 1 and a bit

[Duma]

Seen a few vids now, and one with the heal.

you trying to piss me off?

[Jaspersharpe]

Regardless of what grade this is given I'd much rather tick Hotline (insert any number of classic 7B+ - 7C+ forest problem names here). Also, it's supposed to be very soft for the grade so if you make it easier by gay heel (yes that's HEEL) trickery then what grade does that reduce it to if we're being honest? I was interested in this problem but I really wouldn't want it to be my first (or only) "8A" in the forest the more I find out about it. What did Keith say "New school problem, new school grade"? Now Neil says it's the shittest problem in Font. Hmmm....

[neil h]

well its not really the shittest problem., Its the shittest classic, I do think It is a good tick and a good looking problem,. but for me and a lot of others, it right down on the bottom of the list, there is so much better out there, I think If anyone is going to do fata they should invest more time and do it from the low start to make it a good problem

[nik at work]

I think it looks good in the clips I've seen but given I've not seen it in the flesh I'm prepared for disapoitment now. I'd love to do the sitter, but I'm thinking that may be a tad ambitious

While people are offering opinions any views on these 2:
Toit de Greaux (sp) (or the sitter Chaos?)
Tigre et Dragon

Again I think these look good but have never seen them in the flesh.

Alternatively anybody want to recomend problems in the 7c and upwards bracket that are steep but still have a bit of technique/trickery? Not bothered about easy or hard for the grade, but nothing mega reachy (unless the reach can be bypassed with intermediates/technique)

(Sorry this is a bit off-topic)

[T_B]

Regardless of what grade this is given I'd much rather tick Hotline

Best problem I've done in the forest!  Make sure you start in the pit though. A friend of mine swung in from the left and didn't know what all the fuss was about - you miss half of the moves out doing that 

[dave]

problem with fata morgana is you're in a lose-lose situation.

If you do the problem, no-one thinks its impressive and will say "well every man and his dog does that, 2-move a-techical pulling, typical brits-abroad tick, even my mate XYZ did this and he's shit just strong".

And if you go and try it but don't manage it, everyone thinks your shit cos you couldn't even do fata morgana.

[T_B]

Alternatively anybody want to recomend problems in the 7c and upwards bracket that are steep but still have a bit of technique/trickery? Not bothered about easy or hard for the grade, but nothing mega reachy (unless the reach can be bypassed with intermediates/technique)

Alea Jacta Est? Really cool problem - big reach from a good undercut to a disappointing edge.

http://bleau.info/oiseaux/758.html

[nik at work]

That edge certainly does look disapointing
Cheers for the suggestion.

Dave I don't think anyone would be surprised if I failed to climb a no-technique-required-but-you-need-to-be-strong problem, in fact I think people might be more surprised if I managed it
I just fancy getting on some steeper problems rather than sprockling my way up a selection of slabs and walls, try something different and all that. Failure isn't an option, more of a certainty...

[Andy B]

Nik, if your span is 5'8" or less don't bother with Alea Acta Est. I can't believe that this has been suggested as a non reachy problem.

[Jaspersharpe]

Hey Nik - what about this.....

http://bleau.info/bouligny/854.html

Looks amazing.

[nik at work]

Ah, ok then, we'll cross that off the list.

Sandbagging conspiracy by the cheaty tallies?