[remus]

Ferdia Earle has climbed Femme Fatale in Glen Nevis, a Cubby E8 from 1986. Apparently potentially only the 6th ascent in ~40 years!

[Duncan campbell]

Legendary stuff Ferdia!

[Fiend]

Ferdia Fatale!

[fatneck]

Matt Wrights just done Rhapsody

Mega effort!! been great to follow his progress 

[Kingy]

Angus Davidson has repeated Purgatory E8 7b at Back Bowden

www.instagram.com/p/C6BaqMeNU-C/?hl=en

[Fiend]

Good footage of a great line. Surely one for the ground-up massive these days?

[dunnyg]

Looks ace, those moves look wild!

[SA Chris]

Good footage of a great line. Surely one for the ground-up massive these days?

Needs a direct start too

[gme]

Good footage of a great line. Surely one for the ground-up massive these days?

Needs a direct start too

It exists just no one does it.

[SA Chris]

Really? OK, never seen mention of it.

[T_B]

Is the grade E8 / Font 7B? Or is that tech 7b? And if so, how hard is this thing?

[remus]

Is the grade E8 / Font 7B? Or is that tech 7b? And if so, how hard is this thing?

English tech 7b. Adam Watson (no slouch) reckoned the crux was worth about font 8A+ when he did the FA. Seems a bit tight for E8 but luckily Im pretty sure I'll never climb it so not an issue for me!

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2014/01/adam_watson_climbs_into_purgatory_e8_7b_back_bowden-68671

[teestub]

Edit: what Remus said!

[T_B]

Cool. Angus makes it look easier than that.

[Tom de Gay]

Hardest moves on a trad route in the country?

[T_B]

County or Country? Harder or more doable? In terms of style, it looks like a board problem. There’s a reason why Equilibrium has had 3 ascents in 24 years despite being 15 mins from Sheffield. You must’ve been on it Tom?

[Tom de Gay]

Country, and difficulty in terms of Font grade. Who knows, maybe Hard Cheese has that honour, certainly looks the part.

[Tom de Gay]

Harder or more doable? In terms of style, it looks like a board problem. There’s a reason why Equilibrium has had 3 ascents in 24 years despite being 15 mins from Sheffield.

Because it's E10, whilst this is E8. Maybe E-grades make sense after all!

[ferret]

Because it's E10, whilst this is E8. Maybe E-grades make sense after all!

Not sure an E8 with an 8A+ boulder problem is gonna help make much sense. Looks a tank slapper fall from the top, wonder how it actually feels.
Looks great moves and rock quality.

[andy moles]

Northumberland does have a strong hand in that kind of thing.

Australia Crack (E3 6b) gets far fewer ascents (probably because it's harder) than Prime Time (7B+). And it's not even that easy to protect.

[SA Chris]

Angus makes it look easier than that.

He's a bit of a monster though.

[jwi]

The young Swizz climber Dylan Chuat repeated Beyond 9a+ at Pic Sant Loup, in his first run of the day, without having any warm-up except some hangs on a portable hangboard. Beyond has a hard low crux as well.

https://www.grimper.com/news-interview-9a-echauffement-methode-dylan-chuat

Interesting tactics.

[yetix]

Not a repeat but on Ryus Instagram story Sean Bailey makes burden from a move in look so casual.

Is a burden thread needed at this point?

https://www.instagram.com/stories/ryu____1/3358388739302393858?utm_source=ig_story_item_share&igsh=MXZkanBka3BwbWc1ZQ==

[jakaitch]

Shauna has repeated The Boss https://www.instagram.com/p/C6b-lFlKj8r/?igsh=cDJwcnI2aW51dHlx

[Fiend]

Get that to the Shaunawad thread ASAP! Top stuff