[IanP]

Janja has climbed the Fontainebleau big 5 in a day , first time in Font.  Not really sure how big an achievement it is but sounds pretty impressive to me.

(source Janja's Instagram story)

[ferret]

Janja has climbed the Fontainebleau big 5 in a day , first time in Font.  Not really sure how big an achievement it is but sounds pretty impressive to me.

(source Janja's Instagram story)

Not huge grades by modern standards but;
First time in Font, end of April, 5 problems 7c-8a, all of which are hard for the grade if your Janja's height and some are pretty committing.
I'm impressed

[ali k]

First time in Font

This probably amazes me more than the stuff she did. How long’s she been climbing and never been to Font before?

[remus]

Janja has climbed the Fontainebleau big 5 in a day , first time in Font.  Not really sure how big an achievement it is but sounds pretty impressive to me.

(source Janja's Instagram story)

If it was anyone other than Janja it'd be super impressive, but she's got the Ondra curse where if she's not doing something world class then it seems mundane.

[IanP]

Janja has climbed the Fontainebleau big 5 in a day , first time in Font.  Not really sure how big an achievement it is but sounds pretty impressive to me.

(source Janja's Instagram story)

If it was anyone other than Janja it'd be super impressive, but she's got the Ondra curse where if she's not doing something world class then it seems mundane.

You definitely have a point, but for me it's interesting to see how incredibly capable she is on rock despite not really spending that much time outside relatively (witness her 2 8c os in a week a couple of years back). 

Maybe after she wins the Olympics again she can look for a new challenge and we might find out what she can do outside if she really tries.

[Moo]

I’m more surprised that she didn’t flash them all to be honest.

[lukeyboy]

Maybe after she wins the Olympics again she can look for a new challenge and we might find out what she can do outside if she really tries.

This please. Like a few years back when Ondra stepped back from comps and went on a rampage (not that he was ever such a pure comp climber as Janja is).

[Paul B]

You definitely have a point, but for me it's interesting to see how incredibly capable she is on rock despite not really spending that much time outside relatively (witness her 2 8c os in a week a couple of years back). 

That may well be true but I'm not sure that this achievement demonstrates that itself; the big 5 would succumb to an over-strong person? That sounds really negative reading it back but that's not what I'm trying to convey.

[Duma]

Bit OT but what is people's understanding of the big 5? BITD I always thought of the original big 4 as big boss, formis rouges, tristesse, and watchtower. That was then made 5 by the inclusion of atrésie. Looks like she did big golden rather than watchtower?

There's a list on UKC but that's from Remus and I don't know how recently that was put on

[205Chris]

Bit OT but what is people's understanding of the big 5? BITD I always thought of the original big 4 as big boss, formis rouges, tristesse, and watchtower. That was then made 5 by the inclusion of atrésie. Looks like she did big golden rather than watchtower?

There's a list on UKC but that's from Remus and I don't know how recently that was put on

I always had in my head it was Big Golden, not Watchtower. I don't know where the definitive origin of that belief came from though.

Worth a watch if you've not seen it;

[Tom de Gay]

According to scripture (OTE ’97 guide), Big Golden has always been one of Big Four. I guess the clue is in the name. Watchtower is a comparatively recent addition, sometime between ’97 and ’02.

Also of note:

1991 Young and gifted David Rastouil just pips Jacky Godoffe to the post on the magnificent Rubis sur l'Ongle (or was it the ultra-discreet Antoine le Menestrel?) Just before leaving the area he manages Carnage, la Bérézina, la Balance, Infidele, Hypothese, Michel Ange, Big Boss, Fourmis Rouges, Tristesse and Big Golden all first try in the same session.

[jwi]

[...], but for me it's interesting to see how incredibly capable she is on rock despite not really spending that much time outside relatively (witness her 2 8c os in a week a couple of years back). 

Maybe after she wins the Olympics again she can look for a new challenge and we might find out what she can do outside if she really tries.

As I understand it she came fairly close to doing La Dura Dura before the fires. (Hearsay, sorry, not witnessed myself)

[Stabbsy]

Bit OT but what is people's understanding of the big 5? BITD I always thought of the original big 4 as big boss, formis rouges, tristesse, and watchtower. That was then made 5 by the inclusion of atrésie. Looks like she did big golden rather than watchtower?

There's a list on UKC but that's from Remus and I don't know how recently that was put on

There's a section in Between the Trees where Ty does Big Boss, Big Golden, Formis Rouges and Tristesse (no footage of Atresie as it was too dark). I'd always based my understanding on that, although pretty sure I was aware of the big 4 before that. Maybe from the OTE guide, as that was all we had when I went the first time.

[jwi]

Big Boss, Fourmi Rouge, Tristesse, Big Golden and Atresie has been called Le Big Five as long as I can remember at least. Melissa Le Nevé was probably the first woman to do them all (2015, but not in a day). Grimper Magazine reports that she did precisely these 5 in a day (they also source Janja's instagram story but the story has timed out, so I could not verify) and speculates that not many of her competitors would be able to do all five in a day because of the variety of styles.

[SA Chris]

UKC Article references Melissa LN doing them too.

[ferret]

Seems like Solly has been reading this thread. Video illustrates how doing big 5 in a day is no joke even when you’re a beast.
https://youtu.be/EacpukYP1ug?si=Rfj2wazbqGb3gYq8

[edshakey]

Or maybe it was Janja reading Solly's UKC article!

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/03/climbing_the_fontainebleau_big_five_in_a_day-73626

[Nibile]

James Pearson did 29 Dots in Valle dell'Orco...
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/04/james_pearson_makes_rare_repeat_of_highball_8a+-73659

[Dexter]

James Pearson did 29 Dots in Valle dell'Orco...
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/04/james_pearson_makes_rare_repeat_of_highball_8a+-73659

Can that even be called a highball anymore?

[jwi]

James Pearson did 29 Dots in Valle dell'Orco...
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/04/james_pearson_makes_rare_repeat_of_highball_8a+-73659

Can that even be called a highball anymore?

Clearly not. 8b/c?

[highrepute]

Seems like Solly has been reading this thread. Video illustrates how doing big 5 in a day is no joke even when you’re a beast.
https://youtu.be/EacpukYP1ug?si=Rfj2wazbqGb3gYq8

That was great.

[ferret]

Or maybe it was Janja reading Solly's UKC article!

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/03/climbing_the_fontainebleau_big_five_in_a_day-73626

I was referring to him posting the article a month ago but the video a day after this discussion
Maybe the article inspired Janja which inspired this discussion which inspired Solly to post the video.

[jakaitch]

Matt Wrights just done Rhapsody

[Moo]

 

[remus]

Matt Wrights just done Rhapsody

Mint. Looks like he's really been putting the work in so cool to hear he's gotten it done.