[Ged]

Nice to see DS still getting done after the peanut broke

Not that I've done it, but from my efforts I don't think it's wildly harder than 7C+ still.  It still works as a foothold, and other sequences available to avoid needing it as a crimp.  But then I didn't try it before, so maybe it was more like 7C before?

[Duma]

It bloody wasn't!

[J_duds]

https://www.climber.co.uk/news/james-pearson-makes-second-ascent-of-immortal-north-york-moors/

[Teaboy]

Crikey, he's a good climber.

[teestub]

Objectively speaking, I can’t say that this is a “good” route; the rock is generally quite poor, the sequence is short, and it’s generally a lot of work for a small amount of climbing.

Interesting that this was motivating enough to risk going back to lead

[Wellsy]

Pearson is the man. Love that guy.

[yetix]

Sounds like bosi has done sleepwalker from his post on his broadcast channel?

"Somehow rain followed me to the desert 😂 So my plan to rest two days was cut short and I was only able to have a very quick 3rd session yesterday. However it was a very good session and I’ve now done all the moves on the sit 👀
.
So I’ve got some exciting news coming out soon 🎉 Warming up I repeated each stand move and they all felt super chill. So I got ready and went for a send go 🤫 (post soon) "

[moose]

From his Insta:

First go on day 3 😁 so psyched to send this incredible boulder! Onto the sit 🔥
.
Grade wise I will talk more in either my broadcast or YouTube but personally I don’t think it’s V16/8C+ so I decided to take V15/8C for it.

[James Malloch]

Sounds like bosi has done sleepwalker from his post on his broadcast channel?

"Somehow rain followed me to the desert 😂 So my plan to rest two days was cut short and I was only able to have a very quick 3rd session yesterday. However it was a very good session and I’ve now done all the moves on the sit 👀
.
So I’ve got some exciting news coming out soon 🎉 Warming up I repeated each stand move and they all felt super chill. So I got ready and went for a send go 🤫 (post soon) "

What’s a broadcast channel?

[spidermonkey09]

some instagram thing: https://about.instagram.com/blog/announcements/introducing-broadcast-channels

[Ed booth]

Objectively speaking, I can’t say that this is a “good” route; the rock is generally quite poor, the sequence is short, and it’s generally a lot of work for a small amount of climbing.

Interesting that this was motivating enough to risk going back to lead

Either it was super motivating or just not that hard/risky for him to need to have much motivation?

[remus]

Also, unrelated, Pete Whittaker's story suggests he's done Pure Now E9 at Millstone

Nice little vid of Pete's ascent is up on the wideboyz channel.

[Ed booth]

Raphael Foarau insta has photo of what looks like ondra tying in at Annot. Look forward to hear what he has been doing .

[Fiend]

Is Pure Now the worst E9 "line" on grit?? Looks like someone has been trying an independent start at least tho.

[remus]

Is Pure Now the worst E9 "line" on grit?? Looks like someone has been trying an independent start at least tho.

It's probably not that bad on it's own, but given it branches off a line as crisp and clear cut as Master's Edge it's never gonna compare well.

[Tony S]

Is Pure Now the worst E9 "line" on grit??

Amongst them, I’d have thought.

Reckon remus’s kind reply is due to being a stooge or shill (or some other “gangsta” term Dong uses) so don’t believe him (I jest!).

Tom was totally open about this in his write up of the FA:

. Unfortunately an escapable climb
…
funky moves on friable rock.
…
 it's on the verge of crumbling.
...
A king line it ain't!

[Rrev]

Also, unrelated, Pete Whittaker's story suggests he's done Pure Now E9 at Millstone

Nice little vid of Pete's ascent is up on the wideboyz channel.

It was a good try! What a style!

[SA Chris]

According to IG, looks like Will Bosi has done ROTS.

[remus]

Young french comp was Arthur le Bris has joined the pretty elite list of climbers who have flashed 8B+ by doing the dagger first go.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C3qP0iINvQU/?igsh=MXR4NHZ2dG1mY3NwcQ==

[yetix]

Isn't this considered 8B these days?

https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/switzerland/cresciano/sectors/dream-time/routes/the-dagger/

Impressive non the less!

[jwi]

Young french comp was Arthur le Bris has joined the pretty elite list of climbers who have flashed 8B+ by doing the dagger first go.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C3qP0iINvQU/?igsh=MXR4NHZ2dG1mY3NwcQ==

Claims to be the first French national to flash an 8B+.

To sentences below claims that the problem is 8A+/B.

Quality cakeism

[remus]

Isn't this considered 8B these days?

https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/switzerland/cresciano/sectors/dream-time/routes/the-dagger/

Impressive non the less!

Right you are! Thanks for the heads up, updated climbing history too.

[remus]

Claims to be the first French national to flash an 8B+.

To sentences below claims that the problem is 8A+/B.

Quality cakeism

At least we know the first claim is true, as he's followed in that long french tradition of split grades.

[Bradders]

Young french comp was Arthur le Bris has joined the pretty elite list of climbers who have flashed 8B+ by doing the dagger first go.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C3qP0iINvQU/?igsh=MXR4NHZ2dG1mY3NwcQ==

Claims to be the first French national to flash an 8B+.

To sentences below claims that the problem is 8A+/B.

Quality cakeism

I took the "first French 8B+" claim to be a joke.

[jwi]

Young french comp was Arthur le Bris has joined the pretty elite list of climbers who have flashed 8B+ by doing the dagger first go.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C3qP0iINvQU/?igsh=MXR4NHZ2dG1mY3NwcQ==

Claims to be the first French national to flash an 8B+.

To sentences below claims that the problem is 8A+/B.

Quality cakeism

I took the "first French 8B+" claim to be a joke.

Sure. But also non-quality trolling of the green tickmark etc.