[jakaitch]

3rd go of the day?

Aye my bad, meant to put 3rd of the day! Apparently 5 sessions

[remus]

Gabriele Moroni did Erebor 9b a couple of weeks ago for his first of the grade.

https://www.instagram.com/p/C1ZDkixtLVJ/?igsh=MXJqZTJpaDFleDVmag==

[Wellsy]

Simon Lorenzi has repeated Burden of Dreams

[36chambers]

https://www.instagram.com/p/C1Zu5gONwDT/

3rd ascent or is Aidan playing it cool?


Also, first person to bag 3 9As? What a hero

[remus]

Weapon. Looks pretty hard core cons too. Impressive that he's climbed hard in a variety of styles too (compression on soudain, power endurance on alphane and board power on burden). Only person to have climbed three 9As too.

Fairly sure it's the third ascent. Based on the wedge vid Aidan was making good progress but was struggling a lot with skin.

[User deactivated.]

Seems like he did it quite a bit quicker than both Alphane and Soudain 

[teestub]

I eagerly await comment from the only authority on boulder grades

Is that Alphane cusped now? Or did Lorenzi cusp it?

[Wellsy]

Seems like he did it quite a bit quicker than both Alphane and Soudain 

He also didn't use the replica at all, right?

[yetix]

He used the replica a bunch (he was doing alot of tricks to build capacity for the bloc like doing the moves with bigger feet etc)

[teestub]

He used the replica a bunch (he was doing alot of tricks to build capacity for the bloc like doing the moves with bigger feet etc)

Few vids in his YouTube of it, I like that it seems quite shambolic in some ways



Wonder if he’s got a ticket to Colorado booked?

[jwi]

Looks like he did it with board-rules (no matching) as well?

[remus]

Looks like he did it with board-rules (no matching) as well?

How so? Hard to imagine a sequence where you don't match the second or third holds. Unless we're counting the top/bottom part of those holds as separate?

[teestub]

Looks like he did it with board-rules (no matching) as well?

How so? Hard to imagine a sequence where you don't match the second or third holds. Unless we're counting the top/bottom part of those holds as separate?

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C1IAT-9tQuM/?igsh=MWVkOXZ4aDY2dTB1aQ==

Matches the penultimate hold but not the middle one 💪💪💪

[Bradders]

He used the replica a bunch (he was doing alot of tricks sensible/intelligent training methods to build capacity for the bloc like doing the moves with bigger feet etc)

Fixed that for you 

In case anyone's missed it, he has a broadcast channel thingy on his Instagram which is a good read and shows a very close attempt dropping the last move. He's found beta also which allows him to do the problem in 4 moves rather than 5, avoiding the 1st match as jwi alluded to. Pretty flipping hardcore in terms of the recent Lappnor temps too (a balmy -1'C atm but been down to -15'C according to Google).

[Will Hunt]

I eagerly await comment from the only authority on boulder grades

Is that Alphane cusped now? Or did Lorenzi cusp it?

 
I hadn't heard of this Lorenzi bloke before I looked up who'd done Alphane.

Looks like he did it with board-rules (no matching) as well?

How so? Hard to imagine a sequence where you don't match the second or third holds. Unless we're counting the top/bottom part of those holds as separate?

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C1IAT-9tQuM/?igsh=MWVkOXZ4aDY2dTB1aQ==

Matches the penultimate hold but not the middle one 💪💪💪

That is absolutely disgusting. Still, Alphane 8C+, BoD 9A. In this life or the next I will be proven right.

[Dingdong]

It’s probably just on the easier side of 9A, plenty of wads who’ve been sieging it with no luck so not sure about it being 8C+

[edshakey]

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C1IAT-9tQuM/?igsh=MWVkOXZ4aDY2dTB1aQ==

Matches the penultimate hold but not the middle one 💪💪💪

This is outrageous. After all the footage of people struggling on that move, to just roll through with the left hand would have sounded impossible.

Hope he does get out to the states, clean up the other 9As

[yetix]

I'm sure I read on his insta broadcast somewhere that aidan sussed the sans match beta for move 2 but I could be wrong and I'm too lazy to rego through all the messages!

[Bradders]

I'm sure I read on his insta broadcast somewhere that aidan sussed the sans match beta for move 2 but I could be wrong and I'm too lazy to rego through all the messages!

Yes I think you're right.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C1IAT-9tQuM/?igsh=MWVkOXZ4aDY2dTB1aQ==

Matches the penultimate hold but not the middle one 💪💪💪

This is outrageous. After all the footage of people struggling on that move, to just roll through with the left hand would have sounded impossible.

Hope he does get out to the states, clean up the other 9As

In fairness to everyone else, I'm not sure the match was actually that hard? More that it then made move three quite hard going right hand first to the pinch.

[teestub]

In fairness to everyone else, I'm not sure the match was actually that hard? More that it then made move three quite hard going right hand first to the pinch.

Well yes, this one move replaces 2 so it’s the harder of those that’s important in comparison right? 😄

Anyway Lorenzi, total legend. Does 3 9As make him the best in the world?

[crimpinainteasy]

I eagerly await comment from the only authority on boulder grades

Is that Alphane cusped now? Or did Lorenzi cusp it?

 
I hadn't heard of this Lorenzi bloke before I looked up who'd done Alphane.

Looks like he did it with board-rules (no matching) as well?

How so? Hard to imagine a sequence where you don't match the second or third holds. Unless we're counting the top/bottom part of those holds as separate?

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C1IAT-9tQuM/?igsh=MWVkOXZ4aDY2dTB1aQ==

Matches the penultimate hold but not the middle one 💪💪💪

That is absolutely disgusting. Still, Alphane 8C+, BoD 9A. In this life or the next I will be proven right.

I think the whole concept of alphane not being 9A is utter rubbish. Even Mr sandbag himself Jakob Schubert has taken 9A for it. It really hasn't that many repeats when you consider that it has good accessibility and conditions pretty much year round Vs Burden which is only climbable for maybe 60 days of the year at a stretch.

[lukeyboy]

I also think a longer problem is going to lend itself to more repeats than a short problem of the same difficulty. There's less likely to be stopper moves and it's easier to gradually work it to submission.

Also yes, add in the conditions, access, and skin shredding nature of BoD.

[chriss]

Anyway Lorenzi, total legend. Does 3 9As make him the best in the world?
[/quote]

  Didn't Bosi say he thought one of his lime FA's was harder than Alphane ? So Bosiwad could of got there first.

Can't see a que of euro crusher's lining up for a crack at it tho.

Either way what an achievement by Lorenzo.

[Duncan campbell]

think Bosi said he had a lucky go on HB where he hit everything perfect but hadn’t built up the fitness on it at that point so it felt harder than Alphane and BoD for example that he did in more sessions but had built up more fitness on them so they felt more steady?

Could be wrong on that though

[beast]

Short interview from the Man.

https://karpollaon8a.com/burden-of-dreams-third-ascent-by-simon-sisu-lorenzi/