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significant repeats (Read 4735713 times)

Hacker

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#11075 Re: significant repeats
May 21, 2023, 02:30:57 pm
I watched him abseil down samson, brush and chalk the holds briefly. He then did 2 links of the crux section from the big pocket in quick succession with the rope tied off, first attempt I think. Was very impressive. That evening it was windy and cold and conditions were good. However they had only just arrived and didn't have any pads to go for it. I think they ended up with a few extra pads but originally he was going to try it with just 3 pads that petzl were sending them  :o

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#11076 Re: significant repeats
May 22, 2023, 04:00:25 pm
Bosi repeated Isles of Wonder sit, downgraded to 8C with better beta (according to 8a)

Will Hunt

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#11077 Re: significant repeats
May 22, 2023, 04:42:50 pm
Could this be the beginning of the top-level beef that we've been craving?

remus

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#11078 Re: significant repeats
May 22, 2023, 07:55:00 pm
Could this be the beginning of the top-level beef that we've been craving?

Aidan is vegetarian.

andy moles

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#11079 Re: significant repeats
May 23, 2023, 06:37:39 am
Could this be the beginning of the top-level beef that we've been craving?

Aidan is vegetarian.

Meat-free top level beef.

From what I've seen of their respective personalities, I anticipate a campaign of retributive shitposting culminating in a bust-up outside the Vaynol.

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#11080 Re: significant repeats
May 23, 2023, 07:09:31 am
Has Will got more span? I seem to remember Aidan was messing around with the heel for ages before doing it the harder way because he couldn't move from the position?

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#11081 Re: significant repeats
May 26, 2023, 12:07:46 pm
There’s a hidden UKC tick of Somehow Super, Steve Mac’s direct on Love Amongst the Butterflies. This must be a second ascent. Given 8c it’s shut down lots of talented climbers over the years including I gather Caff, Ryan, Jon Clarke and Neil Mawson and so likely harder. Anyone know who’s done it?

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#11082 Re: significant repeats
May 26, 2023, 01:08:34 pm
I assume it's Felix? Him and Jim both have hidden logbooks and Jim is in the US...

I don't think Mawson's been on it, unless I'm misremembering a conversation I had with him where it came up...

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#11083 Re: significant repeats
May 26, 2023, 01:14:01 pm
Got word back it was Felix. Be interesting to get his take on it…

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#11084 Re: significant repeats
May 26, 2023, 01:23:18 pm
I to noticed the hidden log and was most intrigued. However Asia shadow player would fit the description of the direct start as well and it too has repelled many suitors. There is a bit of chalk on the shared start to the 3 routes but that maybe because it doesn't take any seepage or run off just there. The week before there was a lot of wet streaks in that area. The other day just after the said event it looked very dusty with no obvious chalk and 3 bail bineers which is an odd thing to leave Insitu if you made the belay.
Well done whoever but it could just as easily be a rogue log.

remus

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#11085 Re: significant repeats
May 30, 2023, 04:24:04 pm
Shauna did Flip Flopera 8B recently. Not a bad effort 1 year after child birth!

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cs1zWK2qJoB/

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#11086 Re: significant repeats
May 30, 2023, 04:42:29 pm
Shauna did Flip Flopera 8B recently. Not a bad effort 1 year after child birth!

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cs1zWK2qJoB/

I was wondering whether this deserved the reopening of the Shaunawad thread.  Motherhood and knee operation but definitively still among the very best British women boulderers.

Sounds like it probably went down pretty quickly as well?

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#11087 Re: significant repeats
May 30, 2023, 04:51:27 pm
Shauna did Flip Flopera 8B recently. Not a bad effort 1 year after child birth!

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cs1zWK2qJoB/

What an effort. The sleep deprivation alone is enough, never mind actually giving birth!

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#11088 Re: significant repeats
May 31, 2023, 07:25:03 am
Shauna did Flip Flopera 8B recently. Not a bad effort 1 year after child birth!

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cs1zWK2qJoB/

I was wondering whether this deserved the reopening of the Shaunawad thread.  Motherhood and knee operation but definitively still among the very best British women boulderers.

Sounds like it probably went down pretty quickly as well?

Agree, pretty astonishing.

Sounds like she did the Impropa finish in a session then went back to finish up Grand.

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#11089 Re: significant repeats
June 02, 2023, 07:06:08 am
Shauna did Flip Flopera 8B recently. Not a bad effort 1 year after child birth!

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cs1zWK2qJoB/

I was wondering whether this deserved the reopening of the Shaunawad thread.  Motherhood and knee operation but definitively still among the very best British women boulderers.

Sounds like it probably went down pretty quickly as well?

Agree, pretty astonishing.

Sounds like she did the Impropa finish in a session then went back to finish up Grand.

This is awesome, I am so inspired and I'm also finding it brilliant that she is getting this kind of recognition and reaction for climbing at this level postpartum, maybe the world is changing slightly.

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#11090 Re: significant repeats
June 02, 2023, 10:25:37 am
In markedly more niche news, it looks like someone has logged an ascent of Haydn's Against the Current on UKC, anyone know who the mystery shuffler might be?

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#11091 Re: significant repeats
June 02, 2023, 11:46:34 am
A niche that you've been holed up in for a while yourself Remus!

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#11092 Re: significant repeats
June 02, 2023, 07:27:37 pm
Somebody repeated Achemine yesterday. Anybody know who?
New UKC article - dark horse Rob Sutton
https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/9a_and_e9_for_hidden_climber_rob_sutton-15198
Achermine E9 and Hunger 9a. Great effort, proper stuff  :bow:

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#11093 Re: significant repeats
June 02, 2023, 08:55:34 pm
Are we still none the wiser as to the mystery repeat of Somehow Super at the Cornice? I completely understand why people may keep a log private but when someone has been sniffing around my new route across the river anonymously I get this uneasy feeling because I am desperate to receive feed back especially on the grade because I have totally lost the plot in that department.

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#11094 Re: significant repeats
June 02, 2023, 09:24:09 pm
I'm 99% sure it was Felix

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#11095 Re: significant repeats
June 02, 2023, 09:31:46 pm
The shuffle or up problem?

remus

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#11096 Re: significant repeats
June 03, 2023, 08:42:28 pm
Jen Wood had joined the short list of British women who have climbed 8c by repeating Stay as you are on Kalymnos.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CtCF9NXNnfU/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

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#11097 Re: significant repeats
June 06, 2023, 09:20:24 am
Angus Kille climbed Meltdown 9a (the slate one) yesterday.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CtJESXNNSZ3/

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#11098 Re: significant repeats
June 06, 2023, 09:26:30 am
Great he got it done, he was worries that weather and connies would defeat him.

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