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significant repeats (Read 4738674 times)

remus

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#11025 Re: significant repeats
April 11, 2023, 11:48:05 am
Robbie Phillips, Seb Berthe and Mathieu Miquel have all repeated Le Voyage, James Pearson's E10/8b+ in Annot (not his new one Bon Voyage!)

Notably it was Mathieu's first trad route, and he's still yet to take a fall on trad gear!

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cq47Eq1sX4M/

andy moles

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#11026 Re: significant repeats
April 12, 2023, 04:20:16 pm
Just saw that Seb flashed it.


Duncan campbell

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#11027 Re: significant repeats
April 13, 2023, 12:49:35 pm
Just saw that Seb flashed it.

Pretty incredible stuff that!! 1st route actually graded E10 flash!

Looking forward to the video.

Seb is the guy who did the Alpine Trilogy with Nico by bike isnít he? And sailed to the US to try Dawn Wall?

How come Belgian climbers are so cool?




jwi

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#11028 Re: significant repeats
April 13, 2023, 01:30:50 pm
Makes me even more chuffed that he did not flash my long term project.

petejh

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#11029 Re: significant repeats
April 13, 2023, 02:13:42 pm
Seb is the guy who did the Alpine Trilogy with Nico by bike isnít he? And sailed to the US to try Dawn Wall?

How come Belgian climbers are so cool?

I get the Dublin ferry to climb at Fairhead.  8) 8)

Duncan campbell

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#11030 Re: significant repeats
April 13, 2023, 03:20:06 pm
Seb is the guy who did the Alpine Trilogy with Nico by bike isnít he? And sailed to the US to try Dawn Wall?

How come Belgian climbers are so cool?

I get the Dublin ferry to climb at Fairhead.  8) 8)

You are cool in your own special way, Pete. But itís not because of how you travel to the cragÖ

andy moles

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#11031 Re: significant repeats
April 13, 2023, 03:51:15 pm
How come Belgian climbers are so cool?

Chris Kalous asked Seb this question on his podcast, not worded quite like that obviously but something to similar effect. And taking much the same liberty with what he actually said, Seb's explanation was basically that it's because Nico is so cool.

andy moles

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#11032 Re: significant repeats
April 13, 2023, 03:58:12 pm
And that there's a good frites and beer scene in Freyr.

sherlock

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#11033 Re: significant repeats
April 13, 2023, 04:10:12 pm
And that there's a good frites and beer scene in Freyr.
Pity they spoil them with mayonnaise.Filthy habit.

monkoffunk

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#11034 Re: significant repeats
April 13, 2023, 04:20:06 pm
I love mayonnaise and frites, but then I am an 1/8 Belgian.

Dingdong

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#11035 Re: significant repeats
April 13, 2023, 04:49:35 pm
And that there's a good frites and beer scene in Freyr.
Pity they spoil them with mayonnaise.Filthy habit.

Hard disagree. Mayonnaise and chips is the ultimate combo.

Bradders

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#11036 Re: significant repeats
April 13, 2023, 05:07:40 pm
I knew it.

thunderbeest

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#11037 Re: significant repeats
April 13, 2023, 06:11:48 pm
And that there's a good frites and beer scene in Freyr.
Pity they spoil them with mayonnaise.Filthy habit.

What else you'd put on them? Fish and vinegar?

andy moles

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#11038 Re: significant repeats
April 13, 2023, 06:19:50 pm
Mayonnaise, ketchup, mustard. To be dipped each alone or in any combination.  :yes:

36chambers

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#11039 Re: significant repeats
April 13, 2023, 10:03:19 pm
Seb is the guy who did the Alpine Trilogy with Nico by bike isnít he? And sailed to the US to try Dawn Wall?

How come Belgian climbers are so cool?

Just realised that I must have climbed with some of these guys in Bishop last year (Chris says hi). Unless, of course, there were multiple groups of Belgian climbers who had sailed to America. Cool people indeed.

remus

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#11040 Re: significant repeats
April 14, 2023, 10:21:18 pm
Sounds like Caro Ciavaldini has joined the Le Voyage train and with it a pretty small group of women who have climbed E10 https://www.instagram.com/p/CrBZsRlo5AV/

andy moles

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#11041 Re: significant repeats
April 15, 2023, 08:50:32 am
Sounds like Caro Ciavaldini has joined the Le Voyage train and with it a pretty small group of women who have climbed E10 https://www.instagram.com/p/CrBZsRlo5AV/

No green tick, mystifying.

Nice twin-punch of mischief there, downgrading her fella and pre-empting the inevitable armchair observation, nothing to do with the fact she's a woman of course, that it can't really be E10.

ferret

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#11042 Re: significant repeats
April 15, 2023, 09:32:21 am
Recent ascentionists including Robbie Phillips had suggested the climbing is 8b rather than 8b+ so the egrade of e9 might be more accurate. This was prior to Caros ascent.
It's in one of the interviews on 8a somewhere
Egrader says 8b runout, easy e10, slightly runout hard e9 so it's definitely not e8 😉

andy moles

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ferret

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#11044 Re: significant repeats
April 15, 2023, 09:58:52 am
Ha, I just thought it slightly ironic if your route gets downgraded by your own algorithm

remus

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#11045 Re: significant repeats
April 18, 2023, 06:56:13 am
It looks like visiting kiwi Issac Buckley made the second ascent of Jim Pope's Frowned Upon (E8/highball 7C+) at Curbar on Sunday.

remus

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#11046 Re: significant repeats
April 18, 2023, 09:51:45 pm
Ferdia Earle made the fourth ascent of The Rising Son E8 6c in Llanberis pass today. Established by Alex Mason Powell in 2018, Caff got the second ascent and Andy Moles the third a few days ago.

Kingy

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#11047 Re: significant repeats
April 19, 2023, 11:59:07 am
Jonathan Siegrist repeated Sharma's Stoking the Fire 9b in Santa Linya a few days ago, the 6th ascent I believe after Ondra, Schubert, Sachi Amma and Ghisolfi.

Seems like one of the stouter 9b's out there! I think kneebars have been found since Sharma's ascent in 2013 but Siegrist only used one to do a tricky clip

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#11048 Re: significant repeats
April 27, 2023, 10:26:38 am
According to James Pearsonís Instagram SteveMc has repeated Le Voyage, the video clips are pretty hair-raising  :o



Good footage of multiple E11 ascensionist and professional giant fall taker talking shite as usual "Now I wouldn't say I'm a real expert traditional climber....I'm certainly not a bolt traditional climber..."

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#11049 Re: significant repeats
May 04, 2023, 09:06:25 pm
Sam Blackwell did Superman today

 

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