[kingholmesy]

Out of interest, does anyone know the number of ascents that Once Upon A Time In The Southwest has had, compared to Walk of Life?

Other than Birkett, have many people done both?

Is Walk of Life generally regarded as a bit harder?

[Duma]

No idea, but I always thought OAATITSW looked the better line, that runnel on the upper slab looks amazing

[shark]

Remus, out of curiosity where did E10 come from on THE LIST for Hazel Findlay's ascent of Magic Line?

I ask because Magic Line is generally accepted to be solid 5.14c in American, or 8c+ in French. Thinking about all the chat regarding Lexicon, if that's safe-but-run-out 8b+ = E11, then shouldn't safe-but-run-out 8c+ be at least E....12?

Forgive my lack of knowledge, just curious.

Probably from what Hazel herself said on UKC:

Just to clarify. The grade given by the first red point ascentionist of this route (Lonnie Kauk) is 5.14c R which equals 8c+ and probably e10 (but UK grades don’t really make sense for this line).

[remus]

I believe she's american so she's not on THE list 

Remus, out of curiosity where did E10 come from on THE LIST for Hazel Findlay's ascent of Magic Line?

I ask because Magic Line is generally accepted to be solid 5.14c in American, or 8c+ in French. Thinking about all the chat regarding Lexicon, if that's safe-but-run-out 8b+ = E11, then shouldn't safe-but-run-out 8c+ be at least E....12?

Forgive my lack of knowledge, just curious.

To be honest I just guessed (didn't clock that hazel had said E10, thanks for the reference shark). As I understand it magic line is pretty safe so the comparison with Lexicon may make a little more sense in that light.

[remus]

Out of interest, does anyone know the number of ascents that Once Upon A Time In The Southwest has had, compared to Walk of Life?

Other than Birkett, have many people done both?

Is Walk of Life generally regarded as a bit harder?

Roughly similar I think. https://climbing-history.org/climb/562/once-upon-a-time-in-the-southwest and https://climbing-history.org/climb/581/the-walk-of-life Probably a few ascents missing from there though. Caff and Charlie Woodburn have done both of them.

My 'finger in the air' grade-o-meter from reading other people's comments is that walk of life is a bit harder.

[kingholmesy]

Cheers.  I forgot about the wiki.  Good innit!

[HaeMeS]

Bibliographie by Sean Bailey:

https://www.facebook.com/310104132349325/posts/5061076433918714/

[jwi]

I saw that, but maybe wait until the ascent is announced in a more unambiguous way?

[shark]

According to her Facebook story Lucy Mitchell flashed her first 8b - I’m presuming at St Leger. I’ve dropped her a message to find out which one

[remus]

What a beast! Only the second British woman to flash 8b? (after Molly)

[shark]

Molly’s was onsight of course so arguably the first flash ;-)

[abarro81]

Molly's flashed 8b as well as onsighted

[Fiend]

Out of interest, does anyone know the number of ascents that Once Upon A Time In The Southwest has had, compared to Walk of Life?

Other than Birkett, have many people done both?

Is Walk of Life generally regarded as a bit harder?

One of them has a bold and serious crux start with no/little gear, the other has an easy if loose start and several pegs to go for...

I saw that, but maybe wait until the ascent is announced in a more unambiguous way?

Definitely, good call. Bollox to the "Sean says hi from Ceuse" type vague hints.

[remus]

Out of interest, does anyone know the number of ascents that Once Upon A Time In The Southwest has had, compared to Walk of Life?

Other than Birkett, have many people done both?

Is Walk of Life generally regarded as a bit harder?

One of them has a bold and serious crux start with no/little gear, the other has an easy if loose start and several pegs to go for...

The pegs are a bit shit now apparently, though there's quite a bit of other gear in the form of micros, ball nuts and small cams.

[Ged]

Out of interest, does anyone know the number of ascents that Once Upon A Time In The Southwest has had, compared to Walk of Life?

Other than Birkett, have many people done both?

Is Walk of Life generally regarded as a bit harder?

Roughly similar I think. https://climbing-history.org/climb/562/once-upon-a-time-in-the-southwest and https://climbing-history.org/climb/581/the-walk-of-life Probably a few ascents missing from there though. Caff and Charlie Woodburn have done both of them.

My 'finger in the air' grade-o-meter from reading other people's comments is that walk of life is a bit harder.

My experience from the comfort of a micro traxion; WoL is way more sustained, but with an easier crux.  Gear is not too bad apart from the first 10 metres which are really quite bold.  OUATITSW seemed to have more steady climbing on it with a hard crux.  I spent way more time on WoL as I thought the climbing was amazing.  If I had a gun pointed at me and told to lead one now, it would be OUATITSW. 

I think WoL is also considerably harder for the short, which may account for the fewer ascents.

[jwi]

https://www.instagram.com/p/CUIeGmUM3Ex/?utm_medium=copy_link

Megos has flashed a 9a in Austria.

[dunnyg]

Thats wild. Thats how I imagine I look on a good day climbing a 6b+

[edshakey]

Nico Januel has done The Big Island (8C) with a not-tall-person sequence (still not quite a short person method though!). I'm not familiar with him but he says it's his fourth of the grade, so strong chap.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CUXydcbFZnU/

[Fiend]

Thats wild. Thats how I imagine I look on a good day climbing a 6b+

What, slappy, with your feet slipping off??

Cool climbing in that video. Short route, must really pack it in.

[wasbeen]

Nico Januel has done The Big Island (8C) with a not-tall-person sequence (still not quite a short person method though!). I'm not familiar with him but he says it's his fourth of the grade, so strong chap.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CUXydcbFZnU/

He used to be the French bouldering/youth coach.

He did a brilliant interview for UKC a few years ago that helps explain the recent French comp success.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2017/08/nicolas_januel_french_national_bouldering_team_coach-71233

This quote in particular stuck with me.

"I think that for a young athlete, the key is to be physically very strong, because later in life it becomes increasingly difficult to improve in that aspect. The second thing is to be very flexible. You can improve your technique for a long time."

 

[mrjonathanr]

His comment here interests me:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CKWmDxLqJHu/

[cheque]

Angie Scarth-Johnson has climbed something called Victimas Del Futur which makes her the first Australian woman (I believe the term is “Sheila”) to climb 9a.

[shark]

According to her Facebook story Lucy Mitchell flashed her first 8b - I’m presuming at St Leger. I’ve dropped her a message to find out which one

It’s “ Viens voir mon gros jesus” and is at a banned or secret crag which is probably why I can’t find any reference to it online. She did it on a short 5 day trip which is even more impressive

[edshakey]

According to her Facebook story Lucy Mitchell flashed her first 8b - I’m presuming at St Leger. I’ve dropped her a message to find out which one

It’s “ Viens voir mon gros jesus” and is at a banned or secret crag which is probably why I can’t find any reference to it online. She did it on a short 5 day trip which is even more impressive

I'd have thought 5 days is plenty of time to flash a route!

[reeve]

According to her Facebook story Lucy Mitchell flashed her first 8b - I’m presuming at St Leger. I’ve dropped her a message to find out which one

It’s “ Viens voir mon gros jesus” and is at a banned or secret crag which is probably why I can’t find any reference to it online. She did it on a short 5 day trip which is even more impressive

I'd have thought 5 days is plenty of time to flash a route!

Indeed, it's no wonder people tell shark to climb faster