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significant repeats (Read 3733813 times)

abarro81

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#9275 Re: significant repeats
November 22, 2020, 01:43:28 pm
Molly onsighted 8b this past summer (something near Innsbruck looking at her 8a account)

Interesting that Hazel gave Donkey Kong Ext 8a+ but labelled Pig in the Roof 8b in her pic. I thought Pig was easier than DK... Both seemed to make sense at bottom end 8b in the context of others in Leonidio (I.e. could easily be 8a+)

Duma

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#9276 Re: significant repeats
November 22, 2020, 06:09:51 pm
Interesting that Hazel gave Donkey Kong Ext 8a+ but labelled Pig in the Roof 8b in her pic. I thought Pig was easier than DK...
Weird that you and Hazel might have different opinions on gtades...

remus

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#9277 Re: significant repeats
November 22, 2020, 07:35:53 pm
It sounds like Akira has had a couple of repeats: https://www.instagram.com/p/CH52khijvz7/

It seems the controversy continues as it sounds like some holds have broken in the initial boulder problem taking it from 8B to 7C (says Fred).

Teaboy

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#9278 Re: significant repeats
November 22, 2020, 07:59:19 pm
Slash grade incoming

jwi

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#9279 Re: significant repeats
November 22, 2020, 08:16:50 pm
haha, my bet is 8c+/9a.

manically refreshing https://www.facebook.com/argrimpol waiting to get the gossip

SA Chris

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#9280 Re: significant repeats
November 22, 2020, 11:31:46 pm

It seems the controversy continues as it sounds like some holds have broken in the initial boulder problem taking it from 8B to 7C (says Fred).

How conwenient.

ferret

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#9281 Re: significant repeats
November 23, 2020, 03:05:42 am

It seems the controversy continues as it sounds like some holds have broken in the initial boulder problem taking it from 8B to 7C (says Fred).

How conwenient.

Can confirm via a friend that worked Akira pretty hard that the initial section used to be 8B. His breakdown was 8B to a crap rest on a 3 finger pocket into a second 8B to the lip. He never tried the final rope section (8a?) as he thought it was pointless.
Bit Sad for Fred that it finally gets repeated but not with it's initial difficulty, even at 9a it would still have been a monumental achievement at the time of the FA. Loved Rouhling ever since the cartoon he sent to OTE as his submission to a grade debate article, legendary trolling before trolling existed.

Nibile

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#9282 Re: significant repeats
November 23, 2020, 09:03:21 am
Which cartoon?

duncan

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gme

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#9284 Re: significant repeats
November 23, 2020, 09:49:04 am

It seems the controversy continues as it sounds like some holds have broken in the initial boulder problem taking it from 8B to 7C (says Fred).

How conwenient.

Can confirm via a friend that worked Akira pretty hard that the initial section used to be 8B. His breakdown was 8B to a crap rest on a 3 finger pocket into a second 8B to the lip. He never tried the final rope section (8a?) as he thought it was pointless.
Bit Sad for Fred that it finally gets repeated but not with it's initial difficulty, even at 9a it would still have been a monumental achievement at the time of the FA. Loved Rouhling ever since the cartoon he sent to OTE as his submission to a grade debate article, legendary trolling before trolling existed.

Whoís the friend? Pretty important info as without other confirmation that itís massively changed no one is going to believe Fred.

As far as I can see without proof itís changed it will be down as what ever grade it is now.

jwi

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#9285 Re: significant repeats
November 23, 2020, 10:21:15 am
hugely disappointed that a slash grade is not forthcoming (I blame Lucien Martinez). 9a apparently

https://www.instagram.com/p/CH7ehJVjZ9Y/

ferret

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#9286 Re: significant repeats
November 23, 2020, 11:37:15 am

It seems the controversy continues as it sounds like some holds have broken in the initial boulder problem taking it from 8B to 7C (says Fred).

How conwenient.

Can confirm via a friend that worked Akira pretty hard that the initial section used to be 8B. His breakdown was 8B to a crap rest on a 3 finger pocket into a second 8B to the lip. He never tried the final rope section (8a?) as he thought it was pointless.
Bit Sad for Fred that it finally gets repeated but not with it's initial difficulty, even at 9a it would still have been a monumental achievement at the time of the FA. Loved Rouhling ever since the cartoon he sent to OTE as his submission to a grade debate article, legendary trolling before trolling existed.

Whoís the friend? Pretty important info as without other confirmation that itís massively changed no one is going to believe Fred.

As far as I can see without proof itís changed it will be down as what ever grade it is now.

Phil Gondoux, about 15 years ago he tried it a lot. He had good form for hard roof stuff, 2nd ascent of Fatman sit (8b+ before that nutter took a 🔨 to it) as well as lots of other stuff around that grade FA of Queen of Hearts, Tortuga, etc.
From what I recall he had done the 2 halves and linked into the 2nd 8B and thought it 8Cish to the lip (no route grade offered).
Might be slightly out on the details as it was a while ago, but probably not by much.
Fred did a lot of the FAs and repeats of the early 8's in the area (Targasonne) and was regarded as a beast by all the locals and not a man to be doubted on his claims.

ferret

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#9287 Re: significant repeats
November 23, 2020, 11:48:18 am
Gav, for what little it's worth, Phil had a training replica on his woody that I saw him do big links on. The thing was nails, despite being a pretty solid 8A climber at the time I couldn't do more than a few moves at a time and some of them not at all. Nothing 7C about it. It was my anti-style though, big moves on incuts and deep 2 fingers, lots of cuts and campusing.

gme

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#9288 Re: significant repeats
November 23, 2020, 11:56:43 am
Why is this not mentioned when the route has been discussed in the past? Or has it ? 

I personally think that it wonít have changed that much and the grade of 9a will be right. That was cutting edge when it was done so itís not in anyway saying Fred  was shit.

If stuff has fallen off since Fred did it it would usually mean it got harder, although itís possible it got easier. But two 8Bs linked together (8C ) is  along way from what den is saying so for it to change that much would need some pretty large holds to be added. This would be obvious on the limited footage thatís available of Fred on it.

My bet is that it hasnít changed a lot, the route was 9 a at the time but in a very odd style that wasnít climbed much in that period so felt desperate when people did.
Steep roof climbing was not a thing until well into the late 90s/ 2000s.

gme

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#9289 Re: significant repeats
November 23, 2020, 11:58:59 am
Gav, for what little it's worth, Phil had a training replica on his woody that I saw him do big links on. The thing was nails, despite being a pretty solid 8A climber at the time I couldn't do more than a few moves at a time and some of them not at all. Nothing 7C about it. It was my anti-style though, big moves on incuts and deep 2 fingers, lots of cuts and campusing.
I donít doubt it.

I have never been a doubter of Fredís despite hearing all the shit talk about him I here and in France at the time. I just never believed the grade.

petejh

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#9290 Re: significant repeats
November 23, 2020, 12:03:53 pm
Phil Gondoux, about 15 years ago he tried it a lot. He had good form for hard roof stuff, 2nd ascent of Fatman sit (8b+ before that nutter took a 🔨 to it) as well as lots of other stuff around that grade FA of Queen of Hearts, Tortuga, etc.
From what I recall he had done the 2 halves and linked into the 2nd 8B and thought it 8Cish to the lip (no route grade offered).
Might be slightly out on the details as it was a while ago, but probably not by much.
Fred did a lot of the FAs and repeats of the early 8's in the area (Targasonne) and was regarded as a beast by all the locals and not a man to be doubted on his claims.


This is why UKB is great.
25 years of the climbing world doubting a man about the difficulty of what would have been the world's hardest route. Then someone comes along and casually mentions his mate, who's apparently fully capable of appraising Akira's difficulty, tried the route and was making good progress confirming it as in the 8b-into-8b-into 8a ballpark and thus more or less what the FA said.
« Last Edit: November 23, 2020, 12:09:38 pm by petejh »

gme

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#9291 Re: significant repeats
November 23, 2020, 12:08:50 pm
I just did a quick google of Phil gondoux ( as I had not heard of him) and he also seems to have a lot of doubters and controversy surrounding him.
Words such as ďinfamousĒ and ďdoubtful ascentĒ immediately  appear in the google searches.

petejh

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#9292 Re: significant repeats
November 23, 2020, 12:11:03 pm
 :slap:

jwi

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#9293 Re: significant repeats
November 23, 2020, 12:22:21 pm
neverending saga...

there are, by the way, plenty of absolute beast who have not climbed 9b despite trying very hard.

ferret

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#9294 Re: significant repeats
November 23, 2020, 12:26:01 pm
I just did a quick google of Phil gondoux ( as I had not heard of him) and he also seems to have a lot of doubters and controversy surrounding him.
Words such as ďinfamousĒ and ďdoubtful ascentĒ immediately  appear in the google searches.

Not seen Phil in years but he was a very well respected climber. Strong AF in the roof back in the day, utter shit on anything with a sloper on lol.
Original developer of Targasonne, most of the old school 8's are his. Good mates with most of the Spanish and French wads at the time. Personally never heard his word doubted and certainly seen him pull down.
Infamous I could see, nicest guy you'll ever meet but with a keen interest in religion and aliens and a very colorful sex life that he wasn't shy about!
If you really care you could try and contact him here.
https://m.facebook.com/phil.acromix?tsid=0.2623832847389096&source=result
Or
Acromix.fr
Maybe you'll get some answers

gme

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#9295 Re: significant repeats
November 23, 2020, 12:33:27 pm
Bit more digging itís actually one of the 1st ascents you mention him doing that is disputed , Queen of hearts. He originally gave it 8A+ but no one could repeat it including Nacho. It was then done by Klem at 8B+.

You also say he suggests Akira is two 8Bs where as Fred suggests itís an 8B problem into an 8b+ route to an 8a.

So the new info that got me interested is someone with big ? s next to his name, whoís 1st ascent is doubted, has infamous prefixing his name in another article,  is linked to Farman and Akira of which he suggests a much harder sequence than Fred suggests.

I still believe that Fred did the route, it was really hard at the time, as hard as anything in the world, but it wasnít 9b it was 9a and it hasnít changed much at all.

gme

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#9296 Re: significant repeats
November 23, 2020, 12:38:58 pm
Contacting him is the role of the media. I am just shooting shit on here whilst stuck working from home   

From the little I have read and what you have added to re religion, aliens and a colourful sex life that he likes to tell you about I can see why he wasnít used to confirm whether Akira had been done.


jwi

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#9297 Re: significant repeats
November 23, 2020, 12:44:52 pm
Lucien Martinez is the editor of Grimper magazine... I wager that there will be a feature in the next issue...

ferret

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#9298 Re: significant repeats
November 23, 2020, 01:07:04 pm
Bit more digging itís actually one of the 1st ascents you mention him doing that is disputed , Queen of hearts. He originally gave it 8A+ but no one could repeat it including Nacho. It was then done by Klem at 8B+.

You also say he suggests Akira is two 8Bs where as Fred suggests itís an 8B problem into an 8b+ route to an 8a.

So the new info that got me interested is someone with big ? s next to his name, whoís 1st ascent is doubted, has infamous prefixing his name in another article,  is linked to Farman and Akira of which he suggests a much harder sequence than Fred suggests.

I still believe that Fred did the route, it was really hard at the time, as hard as anything in the world, but it wasnít 9b it was 9a and it hasnít changed much at all.

Maybe I have my route and boulder grades mixed up. It was 15 years ago and maybe he said 8B into 8b (as it says in the climbing article that Andrada thought the 2nd part 8b and he tried it not too long after him and they are friends).
I doubt the media would contact him he's a guy probably in his 50's now who lives in a small village in the mountains. He never made a big deal about trying it and was obviously unsuccessful in his attempts. He definitely put some serious effort in though which is a pretty rare thing, I guess why we are even discussing it.

remus

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#9299 Re: significant repeats
November 23, 2020, 01:16:24 pm
Laura Ragora has repeated Stefano Ghisolfi's The Bow, 9a+.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CH7kLYvjUZM/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

 

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