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significant repeats (Read 3937415 times)

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#9250 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2020, 09:15:34 pm
Seb Bouin commented on Hugh and Akira on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/p/CHBK3v0DgvQ/

""Hugh" First French 9a ✔️
Vintage Rock Tour

What a special route, a special place, and a special moment.
We came back from the vintage rock tour week in the historical crag les eaux claires.
I had three big objectives for this step : "Hugh"as first French 9a, "Akira" proposed as first world 9b, and "de l'autre côté du ciel" 9a. These three routes have a special style, the " @fredrouhling style". Big impressive moves on big holds. It's quite cool to try these impressive routes.
We got a really bad weather (raining all days, except the last one). I was lucky enough to send Hugh before the end of the trip (video coming on the next VRT episode 😀). Yet I couldn't send other projects. I spent one climbing day on "Akira" and 4 goes on "de l'autre côté du ciel".
Situation is a bit weird due to the quarantine here. We had to come back.
Yet, professional sportman can continue to practice.
So I will check how it really works, but I will maybe go back to finish the job if it's possible 🤙."

Fiend

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#9251 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2020, 09:21:10 pm
Nice shot. I remember the Climbing article being pretty interesting.

mrjonathanr

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#9252 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2020, 09:33:52 pm
Cool, I always thought Rouhling got a rather sour press tbh, sounded like his ascents could be legit.

The professional sportsman thing is strange - is he not one? Elite sport climbing/training in UK continues next month, after all.

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#9253 Re: significant repeats
November 05, 2020, 12:02:28 pm
Re-read that article, it is a pretty glowing endorsement, chipping aside. It got me wondering what the difference was between Fred and, say, The G (apparently very strong, dark horse, cutting edge but weird ascents in local area). And it seems to be that Fred was very keen to show his stuff, and give it a try, and that the routes / hybrids were clearly viable as lines, unlike what's been written about some of G's stuff.

There was a good video of Fred doing some burly pocket pulling on some water-worn cave, and also some absolutely heinous vertical sprag-ridden route. Will try to dig them up.

Edit: The ultimate in non-Quality, apart from the music, and heavily edited so no proof of anything, but pretty cool. Hopefully this is on Seb's or someone's radar too:

« Last Edit: November 05, 2020, 12:17:38 pm by Fiend »

Wood FT

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#9254 Re: significant repeats
November 07, 2020, 07:14:38 pm
According to her own Instagram 'story', Julia Chanourdie has climbed her first 9b with Eagle 4 at St.Leger.  :bow:

https://www.instagram.com/juliachanourdie/

Awesome.

Route here -

IanP

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#9255 Re: significant repeats
November 07, 2020, 07:39:41 pm
According to her own Instagram 'story', Julia Chanourdie has climbed her first 9b with Eagle 4 at St.Leger.  :bow:

https://www.instagram.com/juliachanourdie/

Awesome.


Wow!!

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#9256 Re: significant repeats
November 07, 2020, 08:54:26 pm
Brilliant! Is this the one with some super weird french word play in the name?
Vid from back when Ondra was skinny.

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#9257 Re: significant repeats
November 07, 2020, 09:02:42 pm
Brilliant! Is this the one with some super weird french word play in the name?

yes, in addition, the route name should be written Eagle-4, even if a very similar word play works for Eagle 4.

Also, my happiness is tempered by jealousy that members of the national team are allowed to climb outside, but regular climbers are not.

Wood FT

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#9258 Re: significant repeats
November 07, 2020, 09:10:48 pm
Brilliant! Is this the one with some super weird french word play in the name?

yes, in addition, the route name should be written Eagle-4, even if a very similar word play works for Eagle 4.

Also, my happiness is tempered by jealousy that members of the national team are allowed to climb outside, but regular climbers are not.

I was wondering how they were out climbing

jwi

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#9259 Re: significant repeats
November 07, 2020, 09:21:45 pm
"Professional" climbers are allowed to climb outside.

This applies to athletes on the governmental list of top athletes. By curiosity I looked through the list, and only climbers currently involved in the national teams or very promising young climbers are on the list. No one who is not competing is on the list.

"Professional" also applies to guides and rock-climbing instructors, who can climb to maintain technical and physical abilities.

teestub

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#9260 Re: significant repeats
November 18, 2020, 07:06:53 pm
Owner of ever more impressive Nick Oliveri inspired facial hair, Niky Ceria repeated J Webb's 8C+ Ephyra (next to From the Dirt)




Bradders

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#9261 Re: significant repeats
November 18, 2020, 09:02:47 pm
If that's not a display of total mastery I don't know what is. He's in cruise control. Amazing stuff.

Andy F

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#9262 Re: significant repeats
November 18, 2020, 09:11:23 pm
Well, he made that look piss  :jaw:

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#9263 Re: significant repeats
November 19, 2020, 06:17:42 am
He also repeated Jimmy's La Rustica last week which I think is 8C now,

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#9264 Re: significant repeats
November 19, 2020, 08:01:47 am
If that's not a display of total mastery I don't know what is. He's in cruise control. Amazing stuff.
Yes.

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#9265 Re: significant repeats
November 19, 2020, 08:21:27 am
Love how he hangs for about a minute, before deciding where to put his foot. He makes the top-out slab look like the hardest bit.

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#9266 Re: significant repeats
November 19, 2020, 08:31:59 am
He also repeated Jimmy's La Rustica last week which I think is 8C now,
Has it not always been?

Love Niky just going out on his own and doing all this stuff with no fanfare and cheerleaders.


the tension at 40s in that vid, and the casual way he holds the position to spot the feet at 55s, is just mental.

Little write up on his IG: https://www.instagram.com/niky_ceria/?hl=en

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#9267 Re: significant repeats
November 19, 2020, 02:00:03 pm
Love how he hangs for about a minute, before deciding where to put his foot. He makes the top-out slab look like the hardest bit.

In the FA video Jimmy Webb gets some good Elvis leg on the top slab. Good to know that even the best suffer a bit of a gibber now and then.



Slab top out from about 4.20. Full FA from 3.30.

monkey boy

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#9268 Re: significant repeats
November 20, 2020, 07:57:07 am
He also repeated Jimmy's La Rustica last week which I think is 8C now,
Has it not always been?

Love Niky just going out on his own and doing all this stuff with no fanfare and cheerleaders.


the tension at 40s in that vid, and the casual way he holds the position to spot the feet at 55s, is just mental.

Little write up on his IG: https://www.instagram.com/niky_ceria/?hl=en

No Jimmy originally gave La Rustica 8B+ I think.

Not a significant repeat but significant FA by Jakob doing the direct finish to Force Tranquille in Magic Woods, sorry if this has been mentioned already.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dr82TsVOEXk&feature=youtu.be

Nibile

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#9269 Re: significant repeats
November 20, 2020, 10:43:35 am
Good video that one of Webb.
I particularly like the soundtrack, the fact that he no longer wears an anklet and that he uses the word "anticlimatic".

Bradders

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#9270 Re: significant repeats
November 22, 2020, 07:35:28 am
https://www.instagram.com/p/CH3E9SynMqo/?igshid=1mwa655r4emc

8a+ / 8b / 8b+ (who knows?) onsight by Hazel Findlay, pretty impressive whichever one of those grades it is!

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#9271 Re: significant repeats
November 22, 2020, 08:36:13 am
She has made a few comments about the soft grading there - sounds great.

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#9272 Re: significant repeats
November 22, 2020, 10:06:26 am
Barrows warmed up on this in the mist whilst we were there, but I fell off. 8a+ is probably fair.

Either, way is this the hardest onsight by a Brit? Am I right in remembering that Ros flashed Face du Rat?

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#9273 Re: significant repeats
November 22, 2020, 10:12:03 am
Am I right in remembering that Ros flashed Face du Rat?

She did.

remus

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#9274 Re: significant repeats
November 22, 2020, 12:04:24 pm
Barrows warmed up on this in the mist whilst we were there, but I fell off. 8a+ is probably fair.

Either, way is this the hardest onsight by a Brit? Am I right in remembering that Ros flashed Face du Rat?

Molly TS has onsighted an 8a+, can't remember what it was but it's on her 8a.nu logbook.

 

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