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significant repeats (Read 4178080 times)

bigironhorse

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#8900 Re: significant repeats
May 25, 2020, 07:20:06 pm
This forum is mad, loads of equally or more significant shit out there imo.

Nobody blinked when Eliot did 'from dirt' a certified 8C boulder.

Anyway bits that I reckon are more significant just off the top of my head and recent.

Aidan did Shallow Groove at Trowbarrow a couple days ago, 2nd ascent after Ryan, probably 8B+ and in a session.

Varian did Bombadil which I've heard would definitely not be out of place at 8C and blogged about it before anyone say's it didn't get mentioned.

Ned put probably the hardest problem on grit up this week.

8B+ boulder is miles more significant than a 8c+ route in my eyes.

Oh a Micky P climbed 9a if routes are the only thing which flouts your boat.

I would agree they are significant and interesting ascents - please post them if no one else does!  :)Photo or video links are good too.

Perhaps 8c+ is not massively significant but I think this thread also covers "interesting harder ascents" and thought that a repeat of Kaabah would be of interest to some on here. Apologies if this is not the case!

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#8901 Re: significant repeats
May 25, 2020, 07:22:40 pm
So I guess in terms of Eliot's ascent the link would be any of his social media or just me posting further up this thread.

Here is a vid, one of my fave vids going.



Aidan hasn't posted and is generally lax on social media and tbh is from Dan's school of thinking regards spraying. Perhaps cause of the reception half the hard shit gets online, i.e not much. But that was me letting people know (probably against his wishes) that he climbed something nails in a session after doing other hard shit on that boulder.

Ned posted on insta, and said he'd had mutliple seasons on it.



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#8902 Re: significant repeats
May 25, 2020, 07:38:13 pm
Oh a Micky P climbed 9a if routes are the only thing which flouts your boat.

Most of Mick P's stuff goes unrecorded and most of it news worthy. You on about the one in Flatanger last year?

Yeah The illusionist, legend.

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#8903 Re: significant repeats
May 25, 2020, 07:48:50 pm
Ned posted on insta, and said he'd had mutliple seasons on it.

No mention of grade, so maybe it took him multiple seasons to figure out a knacky 6C ;)

I'm more interested in your recent Superman ascent :strongbench: got any good shorty beta?

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#8904 Re: significant repeats
May 25, 2020, 08:07:24 pm
Saw on insta that Alex Waterhouse has repeated Randallís 40 roof crack 8B at Hartland. Whilst obviously not impressive in the grand scheme of things grade wise itís an amazing feature and must be up there in grade terms for cracks.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CAiZUiyDSUt/?igshid=12sor9k2a10xo

Great to see this get a second ascent. Itís a cool cave, there is at least one other obvious line and there are (poor) holds all over the ceiling...

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#8905 Re: significant repeats
May 25, 2020, 08:07:34 pm
Ned posted on insta, and said he'd had mutliple seasons on it.

No mention of grade, so maybe it took him multiple seasons to figure out a knacky 6C ;)

I'm more interested in your recent Superman ascent :strongbench: got any good shorty beta?

Haha cheers Nathaniel.  Erm i did the same as Mick Page, check his instagram for beta haha. Just kidding ill message ya.

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#8906 Re: significant repeats
May 25, 2020, 09:32:18 pm
What's the Ned FA?

And where have these other significances been reported?

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#8908 Re: significant repeats
May 25, 2020, 09:41:52 pm
Can someone write a list of how to be a really cool climber?
So far I can think of:
1. Never give grades to your problems
2. Never report anything promptly
3. Only ever put stuff on Instagram and when you do don't say where it is, what it's called, or what grade it is. The gold standard in cool is to just put a little emoji which may or may not have anything to do with the problem.

Any more?

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#8909 Re: significant repeats
May 25, 2020, 09:53:00 pm
You need a sponsor Will. Rule number the first.  :rtfm:

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#8910 Re: significant repeats
May 25, 2020, 09:53:22 pm
Can someone write a list of how to be a really cool climber?
So far I can think of:
1. Never give grades to your problems
2. Never report anything promptly
3. Only ever put stuff on Instagram and when you do don't say where it is, what it's called, or what grade it is. The gold standard in cool is to just put a little emoji which may or may not have anything to do with the problem.

Any more?

Who hasn't graded something?

All Varian's stuff gets added to ukc more or less straight away. Bombadil for example on there. I assume he does it himself. Ned's on peak bouldering usually.

All of the above seem a more sage plan than blanket downgrades whether you can do the problem or not.  :thumbsup:

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#8911 Re: significant repeats
May 25, 2020, 10:04:55 pm
So is the grade of The Boss given on peak bouldering?

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#8912 Re: significant repeats
May 25, 2020, 10:05:26 pm
No cool climber would ever write a list of how to be a cool climber...

Duma

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#8913 Re: significant repeats
May 25, 2020, 10:06:03 pm
Dirt... was on Eliots IG too: https://www.instagram.com/p/B83_vasDsPS/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
pretty sure it was reported here? It's a great video too. (think the thing he does to the left of dirt is the finish of some horrendous thing that jimmy webb does in a dosage vid?) 
Dan V only ever seems to put stuff on his flickr or scarpa or beastmaker blogs (just seen your UKC point Jack)
Micky P is basically a ghost
Shallow groove was underreported to begin with - prob as Ryan P is off radar too. I didn't know about Aiden repeating it, any more details?


It's unpredictable what gets a reaction, doesn't mean it's less worthy.
But yeah - please post stuff up you hear about, Always interested!

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#8914 Re: significant repeats
May 25, 2020, 10:26:41 pm
All Varian's stuff gets added to ukc more or less straight away. Bombadil for example on there. I assume he does it himself. Ned's on peak bouldering usually.

Just adding stuff to UKC doesn't mean its visible to the masses - only if you register an ascent. Otherwise you have to go and look for it - which implies you already knew about it. Am I missing something?

The Boss isn't on peakbouldering yet. His IG doesn't give any indication of grade other than the time spent on it.

All of which is fine as they obviously aren't bothered about the fanfare.

Not sure who the blanket downgrade comment was aimed at?

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#8915 Re: significant repeats
May 25, 2020, 10:40:49 pm
Ah got timed out. This reply shall be shorter.

Dirt... was on Eliots IG too: https://www.instagram.com/p/B83_vasDsPS/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
pretty sure it was reported here? It's a great video too. (think the thing he does to the left of dirt is the finish of some horrendous thing that jimmy webb does in a dosage vid?) 
Dan V only ever seems to put stuff on his flickr or scarpa or beastmaker blogs (just seen your UKC point Jack)
Micky P is basically a ghost
Shallow groove was underreported to begin with - prob as Ryan P is off radar too. I didn't know about Aiden repeating it, any more details?


It's unpredictable what gets a reaction, doesn't mean it's less worthy.
But yeah - please post stuff up you hear about, Always interested!


Yeah I posted about Eliot's ascent in this thread, pretty significant I thought. First Welshman to climb 8C and well deserved i'd say. Nobody seemed to notice on here.

Yeah true about Micky P, he's pretty much a ghost. Does some cool stuff not many ever here about.

Ukc wise I was just saying the info is there for those that want it, evidently not many do. But to me Dan is probably the best In the country at what he does, so I follow with interest I guess.

Just what I said about SG really, in a session, after breaking it making it harder and as well as other stuff on the same boulder. Cool as it seemed to have been written off as one for really tall uns only, although with Aidan it could still be 8C and he might just not have noticed.

And yeah you are right it doesn't appear to be on peak bouldering. Well it's 8b+, it is online but isn't obvious to find i'll grant you that.

Yeah you are right they aren't bothered.

I think it's a shame, and mostly the reaction to stuff on here is why I don't usually and won't post stuff i hear about.

The downgrading thing was more tongue in cheek aimed at Will.

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#8916 Re: significant repeats
May 26, 2020, 09:25:15 am
Aidan did Shallow Groove at Trowbarrow a couple days ago, 2nd ascent after Ryan, probably 8B+ and in a session.

Oh a Micky P climbed 9a if routes are the only thing which flouts your boat.

Didn't know about either of these but would have posted about them if so. Shallow Groove has almost mythical status in my eyes, being a hard G problem that is actually possible / not just fantasy, yet also sees very little attention.

How did you find out about this? Please say there's a video!

Yeah I posted about Eliot's ascent in this thread, pretty significant I thought. First Welshman to climb 8C and well deserved i'd say. Nobody seemed to notice on here.

Sure someone has already said that often significance is more about the problem / route than the grade, in combination with the individual. E.g. as per the discussion about Action Directe earlier; a female ascent of this is in many ways more significant than an ascent of La Rambla. Or alternatively, "full time working parent repeats seldom climbed hard local problem they've spent ages working" is more significant than "keen youth with seemingly unlimited spare time goes on holiday and climbs very popular, famous and oft-repeated hard problem".

The fact Eliot is Welsh probably works against him to be fair  ;)

Perhaps cause of the reception half the hard shit gets online, i.e not much.

What kind of reaction are you looking for here though? To a certain extent I greet pretty much anything anyone does these days with a "oh that's interesting / cool / meh / dammit that's annoying I wanted to be the first one to do that recently and spray about it on Insta" and then I carry on with my day. It needs something extra to get the juices flowing. Above comment about SG is about as excited as I get, especially when 8C ascents are pretty common now. Very significant for the person involved of course, but of little more than passing interest for the rest of us surely.

Fuck I'm no fun at all am I? Do whatever you want, if you think it's significant post it up and let us know, it is good to hear about hard stuff getting done.

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#8917 Re: significant repeats
May 26, 2020, 09:43:30 am
I read this thread and find things interesting/impressive but rarely post to express my level of interest/impressedness.

I'd not clocked any of those ones you mentioned Jack, apart from Ned's thing on insta (didn't know how hard) and Micky's. I would have posted about Micky's, but I only found out 'cos Gav told me at the School earlier this year and I figured 9 months late news wasn't worth adding...

Personally I think the bar for this thread should be low. Mostly I guess we all find out about these things via insta or 8a or ukc so don't bother posting on here. This thread is at its best for stuff like the grade of Ned's problem or Micky's underground crushing because you wont hear about it anywhere else...

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#8918 Re: significant repeats
May 26, 2020, 10:26:33 am
This is a fascinating discussion. Can someone please post links / pictures / details / quoted write-ups of all the other news listed above (apart from Elliot's that had a video posted and Ned's with one instalink). I'm not on insta / flickr / grindr / ukcr so it's really useful to have stuff posted in this thread.

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#8919 Re: significant repeats
May 26, 2020, 11:01:20 am
Likewise.

As per kneebarrow I'm happy to have the bar set low. It's a feed, not a competition, with no threshold for inclusion.

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#8920 Re: significant repeats
May 26, 2020, 11:15:30 am
This is a fascinating discussion. Can someone please post links / pictures / details / quoted write-ups of all the other news listed above (apart from Elliot's that had a video posted and Ned's with one instalink). I'm not on insta / flickr / grindr / ukcr so it's really useful to have stuff posted in this thread.

No posts about Micky doing The Illusionist.

No post (I have seen) about Aidan doing Shallow Grave but it was only a few days ago apparently.

Dan's write up of Bombadil - https://www.scarpa.co.uk/blog/christianbury-part-3-article/

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#8921 Re: significant repeats
May 26, 2020, 11:36:57 am
I say stick it all on here and let the reader decide whether it's significant or not. Obviously Jack isn't moved by the UK sport accomplishments compared with bouldering feats, but that doesn't mean that others won't be inspired. Personally I'm impressed with Mat's Kaabah ascent, especially coming straight out of lockdown where route training had been really difficult for most. Chapeau!

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#8922 Re: significant repeats
May 26, 2020, 11:53:58 am
As I see it there are two options.

Option A is to keep this thread a place for anything anyone finds noteworthy.

Option B is that you are not allowed to post an ascent on this thread unless you have made friends with a select group of people, rung round the rumour mill to check that you haven't missed anything more noteworthy from the previous year, or spent the time to read a 1500 word shoe advert in case it contains a mention of a noteworthy FA.

Erm, I vote option A.

Though I really appreciate Jack posting on this thread; for many people it's the only way they will hear about ascents from Dan/Ned/Mickey/Aidan etc and they are obviously some of the best ascents around.

Selfishly, I also wish the suspects above were more publicity seeking. I'd much rather see pics and videos of sends of SG than most of the stuff I spend wasting my time on the internet watching. Come on guys - if not for your sponsors, do it to save me from cat videos!

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#8923 Re: significant repeats
May 26, 2020, 11:58:52 am
Thanks for the Bombadil link Dave, lovely writing (even the shoe advert at the beginning was vaguely interesting). Loved the bit on the successful go, and the idea of writing it to share that momentary perfection. Anymore pics/vid available anywhere? When Dan did Hoby Noble I thought Christianbury sounded like an amazing place and the problem really interesting and untypical for hard stuff. Be nice to see what the movement looks like.

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#8924 Re: significant repeats
May 26, 2020, 12:09:12 pm
Quick one and last post from me on here. (Barrows style struggling to walk away)

Naomi, It isn't that It doesn't move me, loads of sport stuff I find mega inspiring, especially rarely repeated or fast ascents. I just find what people get excited about strange in relation to stuff they aren't at all bothered by. Looking forward to catching up soon.

Stu I agree, I wish they were more willing to put the stuff out there. That blog is Dan's way of doing that for whatever reason.
And again i'm not saying people shouldn't post about stuff, I just wish they'd get excited about the stuff I do, and then maybe we'd see more of it.


I'll try to tap out now but leave you with the snippet that Dave Mason did his 500th 8th grade problem yesterday. Not too shabby.

 

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