[AMorris]

Toby Saxton possibly.

aye he's done Monkey Wedding (bit of a trade route for 8C nowdays), Finnish Line, and Arzak.

How the hell has carlisle slapper done 800 Font grade 8s and not 8C?? Merciless grading?

Holy shit, I never knew he had done 800  I have always wondered why we have never seen him gurn his way through an 8C though (or maybe we have...)

[Duma]

I'm pretty sure it's this

Or it might be 800 total 8s that exist in the UK overall, I forget.

Rather than this

How the hell has carlisle slapper done 800 Font grade 8s and not 8C?? Merciless grading?

Though I suppose it's possible

[carlisle slapper]

I love a good chinese whisper. bloody hell its hard to click on the other discussion to check exactly what i wrote. "there are roughly 800 font 8's in the UK". for context Fontainebleau has 250ish at the moment i think. Some of the Pro Wads with perma jet hopping lifestyles are likely at >800 and i'm sure trips to Vastervik, Magic wood, Rocklands etc dont harm things. (I've not totted up what i've repeated abroad but in the UK i'm around 280-300 and 65ish in font- In under 60 days spent there)
Aidans likely still recovering from a tweaked finger, he can do way harder on crimps if he's not chumming about on his hols too. I'll give him a tour of the county again once he's back, he punted on working class last trip up though so he's got a job on to replicate that bloody impressive day in RMNP on paper, easily possible just at one venue. The Rail, Hateful eight, working class sit start, Semantron SS, Honeycomb wall Sit start and hard knocks would be an easier day on the numbers, maybe a bit different on the rocks but they're all sat ready for testing... I just want to be good at climbing nowadays and finish a few old vendetta projects off i don't know if i'll ever climb "8C". Gaskins owns that grade in the UK as far as i'm concerned and someone else can deal with that. i dont know how you could claim that grade in the UK without at least trying to repeat one of his or clearing some of the fog, Mike's at least had a pop at a few.

[AMorris]

i dont know how you could claim that grade in the UK without at least trying to repeat one of his or clearing some of the fog, Mike's at least had a pop at a few.

Never been tempted to take a run at Il Pirata or Shadowplay yourself then?

[carlisle slapper]

I can't pull on to Shadowplay anywhere meaningful, neither could Aidan on Shadowplay, like i say it's a slight issue it either not getting sorted or other people not putting the time in on his problems to show just how unbelievably amazing he was. God only knows i tried, 2008 i loved the G and did little Women after John, Si O'connors slight sandbag 8A remember (another unbelievable athlete who's problems john made the only repeats of in kentmere if you all remember rightly), i trained and trained and fucking trained and i still couldn't pull on in 2013 when i was going like a tank. kind of lost the will after that a bit when i still couldn't pull on but could do some pretty impressive deadhangs etc. All hail the G, strength beyond compare. He crimped off all his hairs, he used them for one armers until there was nothing there.

[Doylo]

SoHandsome

[r-man]

Semantron sitter! I see on ukc that you've just done this Dan. Top stuff. Always thought it was an obvious hard challenge, especially if the holds could be stabilised. I know it's not a king line, but I enjoyed the standup, and I'd love to know what the sitter sequence was. Any pics/vid/more details?

[Doylo]

Just think Dan, if you weren’t so fussy and did the Shit ones too you’d probably have done more than MonkeyBoy.

[User deactivated]

Just think Dan, if you weren’t so fussy and did the Shit ones too you’d probably have done more than MonkeyBoy.

Aye, big proportion of the 8 grades in the UK must be on lime.

More 8Bs at griffs than North Wales excluding the cave.

[ferret]

Micky Paige did at least 2 no, or have there been downgrades?

[monkey boy]

Mick climbed Big Paw and From Dirt Grows the Flowers (left exit) both considered 8B+ I think.

[EStephens]

i dont know how you could claim that grade in the UK without at least trying to repeat one of his or clearing some of the fog, Mike's at least had a pop at a few.

is this serious or am I missing the sarcasm? 

[monkey boy]

Aidan did Ode to Modern Man (8B+) at Mount Evans third go yesterday. He also flashed every other problem on the Dahli Wall. Super Gui (8A), Clear Blue Skies (8A), Mental Masturbation Sit (8A+) and No More Greener Grass (8A+).

[Wood FT]

He did that all on the same day? 



(copyright: Cofe about 10 years ago)

[monkey boy]

Yep, all on one day!

I think on crimps especially Aidan is up there with the best of them.

[teestub]

He’s going to run out of things to do in Co pretty quick! Be good to see him get on Woods’ hard ones, Black Lagoon and Box Therapy which both look pretty crimpy.

[remus]

Mike Adams and ned have both done multiple 8C's

In the interest of listification anyone care to enumerate the problems? I've got Mike down for Serenata and Ned down for Big Island. I know Mike's done Bordello Sit but I thought Ned had repeated that and suggested 8B+? Looking at UKC Mike has done Serenata and Serenataon on impossible roof, but has he done another independent 8C?

[sdm]

Ned did Jour de chasse in 2015 which used to get 8C. I think the consensus is 8B+ now though?

James Noble did it in 2016 too.

[AMorris]

Mike Adams and ned have both done multiple 8C's

In the interest of listification anyone care to enumerate the problems? I've got Mike down for Serenata and Ned down for Big Island. I know Mike's done Bordello Sit but I thought Ned had repeated that and suggested 8B+? Looking at UKC Mike has done Serenata and Serenataon on impossible roof, but has he done another independent 8C?

Ned has done Serenata too IIRC. He also tidied up Big Paw, but I think suggested 8B+ for that.

[remus]

Good knowledge, thanks! Ned would have a lot more 8Cs under his belt if he didn't keep downgrading them 

Pretty sure Jour de Chasse is considered 8B+ with the high heel beta that everyone seems to use these days.

[wMickey]

Mick climbed Big Paw and From Dirt Grows the Flowers (left exit) both considered 8B+ I think.

...and Entlinge which also has been downgraded to 8b+

[monkey boy]

Ned actually suggested 8B for Bordello Sit but James thought 8B+.

Not sure of his thoughts on Serenata.

Jour de Chasse is 8B+ now, some have even suggested 8B as although the sequence is harder at the beginning than Narcotic it makes the Narcotic crux easier.

[Duma]

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=GeZUZUBKVjs&feature=youtu.be

Vid of seb on the last section of Move. He looks a bit underwhelmed at the end!

[r-man]

Ned actually suggested 8B for Bordello Sit but James thought 8B+.

Not sure of his thoughts on Serenata

Bordello is interesting. Mike found it a real battle with conditions, but from what I understand Ned and James used fans. Game changer?

Still no repeats of Mike's Mixed Emotions at Kay Nest. Seven years and counting...

[T_B]

Are you really suggesting that a fan would give you assistance by blowing you onto the holds? Seems unlikely.