So...how do you think it was possible for you do pull it off then?Good question. It was weird. It felt like I can focus my energy better on one try now?It sounds weird but after the route I was really, really exhausted.I still did an 8c and and an 8c+ but I felt really tired
Killian Jornet did the normal route of Everest without oxygen, and without using the via cordata, in 26 hours from base camp at 5100 masl. On the way back he reached the ABC (6500masl) after 38 hours, where he stopped, complaining about stomach pain.
...after removing the threads and pegs, and placing gear on lead I think.
Quote from: jwi on May 22, 2017, 09:09:41 amKillian Jornet did the normal route of Everest without oxygen, and without using the via cordata, in 26 hours from base camp at 5100 masl. On the way back he reached the ABC (6500masl) after 38 hours, where he stopped, complaining about stomach pain.This is a bit like strong sport climbers going trad. Takes a little time to adjust but when you've got power fitness to burn you can do some impressive things.
Just read the interview ont other channel with Colin Haley who has just soloed the N Buttress of Hunter and he says of the European Alps: The Alps are much more awesome mountains than what is available in the contiguous US, but still they aren't really serious mountains at all in comparison to Alaska or the Himalaya, or even Patagonia. While there is lots of badass stuff you can do in the Alps in the realm of hard free-climbing, or speed ascents, there is nothing to do in the alps that is really significant in modern alpinism, in my opinion. So yeah, in terms of where the top Alpinists are UIAA VI is V0.
Messner in his autobiography says the second step on the north ridge is about UIAA VI free (and therefore there's no way Mallory got up it). Not sure if UIAA VI counts as "little technical difficulty" at 8,500 metres.
I must have missed the bit where we were talking something in about the Alps. Or your point.
Megos has onsighted another 9a. It's the one that Ondra onsighted (after Megos became the first to achieve such a feat). In the interview on UKC there's some beautiful indirect trash talk/casual deliberateness where Megos bangs on and on about how weak and shit he was feeling that day. That day when he matched Ondra's best onsight. Miaow!
Quote from: Muenchener on May 22, 2017, 03:09:14 pmMessner in his autobiography says the second step on the north ridge is about UIAA VI free (and therefore there's no way Mallory got up it). Not sure if UIAA VI counts as "little technical difficulty" at 8,500 metres.The Hillary step is gone. The entire thing vanished in last year's quakes according to an interview with one of the via-cordata-for-idiots-operators on planetmontain
Quote from: Will Hunt on May 22, 2017, 05:37:36 pmMegos has onsighted another 9a. It's the one that Ondra onsighted (after Megos became the first to achieve such a feat). In the interview on UKC there's some beautiful indirect trash talk/casual deliberateness where Megos bangs on and on about how weak and shit he was feeling that day. That day when he matched Ondra's best onsight. Miaow!Ondra still on sighted more 9a. Not that it's a competition I'm sure.