[slackline]

Pete Whittaker did kaabah (8c+) tonight at Raven Tor, especially impressive considering his massive sausage fingers and the average size of the razor crimps on the upper wall. Good stuff!

Pete Whittaker talks about his repeat of Kaabah

[Will Hunt]

Can I just make a public service announcement for climbers everywhere.

When you're talking about some aspect of your health recovering, you say "heal". You can remember this easily because "heal" is part of the word "healthy".

When you're talking about the back end of your foot, perhaps in the context of hooking it on a bit of rock to help you climb, you say "heel". You can remember this because that's how you fucking spell "heel" isn't it.

 

[Duma]

Edit, delete duplicate of the ondrawad post

[slackline]

Can I just make a public service announcement for climbers everywhere.

When you're talking about some aspect of your health recovering, you say "heal". You can remember this easily because "heal" is part of the word "healthy".

When you're talking about the back end of your foot, perhaps in the context of hooking it on a bit of rock to help you climb, you say "heel". You can remember this because that's how you fucking spell "heel" isn't it.

 

  Whilst significant I can't see where this has been repeated?

Could it be poor journalism/editors rather than uneducated climbers?

[Will Hunt]

The day has finally arrived when I can do this to you!

<Drum roll>

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=%22Heal+hook%22+climbing

In all seriousness, just because you haven't noticed it, that is not to say it isn't there. Unless you really are the SlackBot and your software is programmed to automatically read all climbing articles for error of any description.

It is there and it is infuriating.

[abarro81]

"Onsite" is the one that gets on my nerves

[dave]

Don't get me started with people misspelling "up problem" as "bloc".

[slackline]

The day has finally arrived when I can do this to you!

<Drum roll>

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=%22Heal+hook%22+climbing

WTF, are you on crack again Will?  I know exactly what a heel hook is, I wasn't asking for its definition so stick your LMGTFY up your arse.  Quite why you've done it as "heal hook" is very strange too since that is exactly what you were ranting against.  Most be a particularly potent batch of crack you've got.

I'm questioning what lit the fire under your outrage because...

In all seriousness, just because you haven't noticed it, that is not to say it isn't there. Unless you really are the SlackBot and your software is programmed to automatically read all climbing articles for error of any description.

It is there and it is infuriating.

In all seriousness I searched the current page for the two terms which are the source of your ire and they're not mentioned in the last 50 posts (how I have the forum configured).  I scanned Pete Whittaker's interview for the same terms, none there, nor on Ethan's Farcebook write-up on Kabbah.  Hence I'm asking you where it occurred, you don't need to be a dick about telling me where it is.

If you're going to rant at least be clear what is you're ranting about rather than being obtuse.  Further remember one of the very few UKB rules written in 2004...

Anything Else?
Don't resort to critcising people's grammar or spelling when arguing/debating - firstly it's rather scraping the insults barrel; secondly people often type to forums quickly whilst at work, etc; and lastly some people may be dyslexic.

[lagerstarfish]

"Onsite" is the one that gets on my nerves

in this era of armchair claims of both grades and particular routes, we need a term to distinguish ticks gained at the crag (on-site) and ones gained merely by placing a tick in a guidebook or on Banu* (off-site)

*Banu - the ancient God of Spray

using "Banu" helps in reducing that man's google rating

[cheque]

When you're talking about the back end of your foot, perhaps in the context of hooking it on a bit of rock to help you climb, you say "heel". You can remember this because that's how you fucking spell "heel" isn't it.

  I had a pair of North Face approach shoes that had it misspelt on the weird technical blurb that was printed on the insole. You can probably imagine how bad the weather was in North Wales when I discovered this.

"Onsite" is the one that gets on my nerves

I once read an impassioned explanation of why this spelling was actually correct (because you do the route without leaving the crag to get beta apparently...) on the UKC forum. That was around the time I decided to stop reading the UKC forum.

I'd like to add the description of an indoor bouldering problem as a "boulder" to this list of off-topic pedantic bugbears. 

[Pantontino]

Romping up E7s - just another day at the office for Caff and Pete:



www.v12outdoornews.co.uk/2015/06/08/two-flashes-and-an-onsight-of-hardest-routes-at-craig-y-forwyn-caff-and-pete-robins-repeat-katies-delight-e8-6c-and-imminent-departees-e7-6b/

[TheTwig]

Adam Ondra with possibly the worlds hardest flash? Jade V14 http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/video-ondra-flashes-jade-v14 - The Wizard himself in the video says it's probably the worlds hardest flash 

[Muenchener]

OK, maybe not The News Of The Day compared to some other things, but Lena Hermann has done Markus Bock's Klondike Cat (XI- / 8c).

Second woman to climb the grade in the Frankenjura after Melissa Le Neve on Wallstreet? No, fifth according to planetmountain. Second German woman.

[shark]

Posts on Ben Moon's repeat of Rainshadow split into a separate thread here

[Duma]

Not significant really I suppose but monkey boy has done king of limbs.
http://davidamason.co.uk/king-of-limbs/

[shark]

 More grey power ascentage at Malham - both Steve Dunning and Al Wilson have ticked Cry Freedom

[andy popp]

Are you sure? Chris Gore's FB suggests Al Wilson belayed one Adam Jeffs. Steve definitely did it at the weekend.

[shark]

 

Are you sure? Chris Gore's FB suggests Al Wilson belayed one Adam Jeffs. Steve definitely did it at the weekend.

Whoops 

Thanks Andy

[Doylo]

Emma Twyford has done the FFA of Melanchollie at LPT. Only gets 8b but it's short and bouldery and hard for the grade. Plus it's the first 8b female ascent in Wales (harder grades than England  )

[Grubes]

Well done Emma

[Luke Owens]

Emma Twyford has done the FFA of Melanchollie at LPT. Only gets 8b but it's short and bouldery and hard for the grade. Plus it's the first 8b female ascent in Wales (harder grades than England  )

Nice one Emma!

Only gets 8b

Only... I thought 8b was hard...!

[Wood FT]

Emma Twyford has done the FFA of Melanchollie at LPT. Only gets 8b but it's short and bouldery and hard for the grade. Plus it's the first 8b female ascent in Wales (harder grades than England  )

nice one Emma

[Doylo]

Emma Twyford has done the FFA of Melanchollie at LPT. Only gets 8b but it's short and bouldery and hard for the grade. Plus it's the first 8b female ascent in Wales (harder grades than England  )

Nice one Emma!

Only gets 8b

Only... I thought 8b was hard...!

It is but not usually hard enough for this thread. This ones a toughie though, the holds are small.

[Oldmanmatt]

An FFA is significant at that grade. There are a handful of women, globally, consistently climbing at that grade (note, Sasha is racking up a few FFA's across Europe right now at similar levels).

It's only a very few who have broken that barrier.

It's looking encouraging for the current Female elite to smash those limits in the next couple of years.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[abarro81]

I don't mean to be a dick, but you must have big hands. There are a handful of world class girls onsighting at that level..