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significant repeats (Read 4975070 times)

monkey boy

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#5275 Re: significant repeats
January 04, 2015, 09:28:40 pm
Billy on Careless


Johnny Brown

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#5276 Re: significant repeats
January 04, 2015, 09:30:49 pm
If you can't reach the dish off the boulder you start direct with a shit sloper. It's harder. The tall can get the good holds in control straight off.

The foothold is two inches below the handhold, it doesn't matter how tall you are that's going to be bunched. I don't know any short people that find the start okay but a few tall people who can do it easily.

The old sequence on the top is only possible for the tall. I don't think anyone has dared do it ground up though, possibly Ned, as you end up sideways.
« Last Edit: January 04, 2015, 09:42:45 pm by Johnny Brown »

abarro81

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#5277 Re: significant repeats
January 04, 2015, 09:40:30 pm
The foothold is two inches below the handhold, it doesn't matter how tall you are that going to be bunched.

I'll rember that logic next time I get short people moaning at me.. "Well, it's a big move even if you're tall, so it doesn't really matter whether you're tall or short". The midgets will love that shit.

Johnny Brown

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#5278 Re: significant repeats
January 04, 2015, 09:41:53 pm
Is putting your heel by your hand normally regarded as harder for the tall? No.

Just watched the vid and Billy looks tall but does the stump start. Maybe he's watched videos and thinks the block is out? He isn't starting off a pad stack.

tomtom

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#5279 Re: significant repeats
January 04, 2015, 09:52:02 pm
Love the vid! Para glider!

r-man

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#5280 Re: significant repeats
January 04, 2015, 09:57:27 pm
The start always used to be called 8A but might have come down now kids and women are doing it  ;).

Don't think this is true. I remember playing on it around 5 years ago and the talk then was that the start was 7C+ and the top 7B/+.

cha1n

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#5281 Re: significant repeats
January 04, 2015, 10:01:15 pm
Is putting your heel by your hand normally regarded as harder for the tall? No.

Just watched the vid and Billy looks tall but does the stump start. Maybe he's watched videos and thinks the block is out? He isn't starting off a pad stack.

The pad stack was two pads wide, so he was starting off of stacked pads. He's not short, but not as tall as he looks perhaps.

Perhaps the high foot thing is more a flexibility thing? Mina makes it look piss in her video and women are generally more flexible.

Duma

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#5282 Re: significant repeats
January 04, 2015, 10:09:18 pm

abarro81

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#5283 Re: significant repeats
January 04, 2015, 10:13:48 pm
Is putting your heel by your hand normally regarded as harder for the tall? No.

Just watched the vid and Billy looks tall but does the stump start. Maybe he's watched videos and thinks the block is out? He isn't starting off a pad stack.

Is getting your weight over a foothold by your ear normally regarded as harder for the tall? Um.. yes. Clearly getting onto those holds is harder for the short, but I'd wager that the roll-over is easier for those short of shin. Cha1n is probably right that flexiness is probably the key irrespective of height for that move. Pointless debate anyway.

I'd have said Billy is pretty average height IIRC.

monkey boy

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#5284 Re: significant repeats
January 04, 2015, 10:26:15 pm
I agree with Adam on the fact that if you are tall you can start with the pocket, making it easier but Alex is definitely right having your foot 2 inches from your face and using it is going to be much harder if you are tall. Mina says the start is easier if you are small. Definitely a flexi thing over height but height does come into it. Most things are easier if you are tall so us giants will let you shorties have this one!

The ideal build would be long arms and short legs with ridiculous flexibility surely?!

Ryan did GU too.
« Last Edit: January 04, 2015, 10:31:55 pm by monkey boy »

abarro81

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#5285 Re: significant repeats
January 04, 2015, 10:32:44 pm
us giants will let you shorties have this one!

Speak for yourself, I'm gonna break their f*ckin' legs.

Doylo

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#5286 Re: significant repeats
January 04, 2015, 10:37:42 pm
The start always used to be called 8A but might have come down now kids and women are doing it  ;).

Don't think this is true. I remember playing on it around 5 years ago and the talk then was that the start was 7C+ and the top 7B/+.


I'm probably thinking longer than 5 years ago. Back when Johnny Brown was going for the first ground up and all these kids were 7 years old.

turnipturned

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#5287 Re: significant repeats
January 04, 2015, 10:43:06 pm
Hamish P- good man. Impressive.

T_B

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#5288 Re: significant repeats
January 04, 2015, 10:44:39 pm
Is putting your heel by your hand normally regarded as harder for the tall? No.


Says the short-arse-brad-pit-show-pony. You normally make sense JB but that statement is clearly bollocks unless you're suggesting boulder problems where you put your heel by your hand and then don't do anything?

On CT I can pretty much get the good bit of the arete with my left with my left foot still on the block ;D

Stubbs

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#5289 Re: significant repeats
January 04, 2015, 10:58:21 pm
How many repeats has Voyager had now, still <10 10 years later? Impressive stuff!

standard

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#5290 Re: significant repeats
January 04, 2015, 11:02:27 pm
Ben
Ty
PaulB
Tom Newman
Stu Watson
Hamish
?

tomtom

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#5291 Re: significant repeats
January 05, 2015, 07:40:10 am

us giants will let you shorties have this one!

Speak for yourself, I'm gonna break their f*ckin' legs.

Yes but it's a long way down to do that though...

cofe

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#5292 Re: significant repeats
January 05, 2015, 07:52:24 am
Ben
Ty
PaulB
Tom Newman
Stu Watson
Hamish
?

Micky.
Hasn't Dan done the stand too?

abarro81

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#5293 Re: significant repeats
January 05, 2015, 07:56:56 am
Michele caminati too? Vaguely recall Barrans too but may have made that up?

monkey boy

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#5294 Re: significant repeats
January 05, 2015, 08:28:54 am
Micky has done it a good few times.
Varian has done it yes.
And michele too.

Hamish said he thought The Ace was harder. He has had multiple sessions on that and Voyager took him just two very short sessions.

a dense loner

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#5295 Re: significant repeats
January 05, 2015, 09:34:39 am
Did hamish finish at the break like what seems to be in vogue for the young Bristol crew? If he made it to the top of the boulder then nice one  ;)

Sure Barrans has done it as well.

cheque

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#5296 Re: significant repeats
January 05, 2015, 10:21:32 am
Just watched the vid and Billy looks tall but does the stump start.

I was going to reply that he's in fact really short but then realised that he'll have gone through puberty since I last saw him.

Effort junior beasts!  :strongbench:

willackers

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#5297 Re: significant repeats
January 05, 2015, 10:25:24 am
Stew Watson?

a dense loner

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#5298 Re: significant repeats
January 05, 2015, 10:27:08 am
Are you reading the thread through closed eyes Will? :ras:

willackers

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#5299 Re: significant repeats
January 05, 2015, 10:30:28 am
It seems so.

 

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