significant repeats

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big day at black rocks, mason squashed meshuga in about half an hour, then k-whiddy did gaia. big day on grit all round, jacob cook did new statesman aswell....
 
GuyVG said:
Cailean Harker climbed Careless torque today, very impressive

Apologies Cailean whoever you are, but from the name I am completely failing to work out whether this is the second female ascent.
 
Muenchener said:
GuyVG said:
Cailean Harker climbed Careless torque today, very impressive

Apologies Cailean whoever you are, but from the name I am completely failing to work out whether this is the second female ascent.

Male, strongest name at the crag that day
 
GuyVG said:
is this the one that goes into Kaabah from evol? Good safety tick there by Ryan

Currently in draft for the guide as follows:

Stevolution F9a 2008
25m From the massive flake where Evolution ends, step
leftwards and straight into Kabbah. An obvious and superb
link-up, unrepeated at the time of writing.

Will need changing...
 
I don't see how this can be the same grade as Kaabah. If evo-kaabah goes in at 8c+ then kaabah should be 8c, in which case mecca ext needs to go to 8b+ and mecca to 8b. It's got to be at least a grade harder than Progress surely (from my extensive 1 day trying Progress)? I talked to Steve about this sometime this year. I think we agreed that for evo-kaabah and for mecca extension it's the case that if the first part is at your limit then the whole thing will feel a grade harder, whereas if the first part isn't at your limit and you can do it 5 times in a day (!) then you might think they were both the same grade. Much like stamina routes always feel easy if they're below your limit. It was always on Steve's website routes list as 9a.
 
I agree if Evo/ Kabaah is 8c+ then Kabaah isn't 8c+ and should go down to 8c. They can't both be the same grade IMO. The grade of Kabaah was given in 2004 without the kneebar that everybody uses now. It is now therefore easier with the kneebar than when first done - this could possibly justify a downgrade to 8c. To my knowledge, nobody has done it without the kneebar other than Steve. It is more important on Kabaah than the extension as there is no massive resting flake to get it all back after Mecca. If this was to occur then I concur Mecca has to go down to 8b and the extension to 8b+ in my view.
 


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