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significant repeats (Read 4178096 times)

Doylo

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#3850 Re: significant repeats
June 28, 2013, 05:06:17 pm
Save your breath Ben. People forget that not very long ago a women climbing 8b would have seemed ridiculous! Never mind a 19/20? year old Brit

tomtom

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#3851 Re: significant repeats
June 28, 2013, 05:10:59 pm
Oh so you're saying that trad climbing is rubbish are you?! Typical smug superior UKB scum, the air of malice on this thread is palpable.

Damn right. I don't know why people bother with this purile pre-pubescent website. I'm going to switch off my computer now and oil my cams, whilst double checking my check marks in my guidebooks - whilst wifey makes dinner. Theres a good girl.

(sorry - in danger of turning this usually sensible thread into a pointless piss-take. My apologies)

r-man

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#3852 Re: significant repeats
June 28, 2013, 05:11:13 pm
Or, to put it another way, a fairly good illustration of how niche bouldering really is. That UKC poster is obviously a keen climber, but still seems to us obsessives like he's speaking from a different world.

As a matter of interest, does anyone actually use the word "sent" in reference to a boulder problem?




petejh

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#3853 Re: significant repeats
June 28, 2013, 05:50:08 pm
I love the phrase 'the air of malice'. Has such a ring to it. Like 'portent of doom' or 'creeping malevolence'.

Who said it? Was it Alan Arete?

slackline

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#3854 Re: significant repeats
June 28, 2013, 05:56:57 pm
Who said it? Was it Alan Arete?

Chris Craggs in this thread (unhide hidden messages then Ctrl + F and search for 'air of malice' its the first hit on the page).

tomtom

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#3855 Re: significant repeats
June 28, 2013, 06:00:29 pm

As a matter of interest, does anyone actually use the word "sent" in reference to a boulder problem?

I prefer 'sended' ;)

petejh

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#3856 Re: significant repeats
June 28, 2013, 06:08:11 pm
Brilliant quote.

'control f' - never knew about that, well useful!

BenF

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#3857 Re: significant repeats
June 29, 2013, 06:27:47 pm
Scouse party legend and king of the dirty crimp Matt Donnelly has climbed Mecca Extension. Nice one mate. :bow:

Wood FT

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#3858 Re: significant repeats
June 29, 2013, 06:34:30 pm
nice one! got a few snaps of his earlier attempts, glad he's done it.

shark

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#3859 Re: significant repeats
June 29, 2013, 07:20:15 pm
nice one! got a few snaps of his earlier attempts, glad he's done it.

Don't be such a tease.



He compltely walked it today. Skipping the top clip looked exciting.

Scouse D

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#3860 Re: significant repeats
June 29, 2013, 11:14:23 pm
Well done Matt!

MattD

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#3861 Re: significant repeats
June 30, 2013, 12:27:36 am
Cheers boys ;) might even stop lurking...

Doylo

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#3862 Re: significant repeats
June 30, 2013, 02:05:22 pm
Nice one Matty D

youngy

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#3863 Re: significant repeats
June 30, 2013, 10:06:44 pm
Ye top effort Matt  :great:

JackAus

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#3864 Re: significant repeats
July 01, 2013, 02:33:48 am
Jimmy Webb has flashed Sky in Rocklands. 8B+! Fuck!

Dexter

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#3865 Re: significant repeats
July 01, 2013, 06:22:50 pm
 :jaw: damn that's pretty strong

masonwoods101

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#3866 Re: significant repeats
July 01, 2013, 08:19:09 pm
It's not even as if its a problem you have to just pull hard on... It's accuracy and precision... Impressive...

T_B

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#3867 Re: significant repeats
July 02, 2013, 09:34:12 am
Macleod has freed the Arch on Pabbay (technically a first ascent):
http://www.davemacleod.blogspot.co.uk/

SA Chris

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#3868 Re: significant repeats
July 02, 2013, 09:47:35 am
FFA?

(And no UKCers in this context that doesn't mean First Female Ascent).

Great news. Still need to get to Pabbay.

T_B

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#3869 Re: significant repeats
July 02, 2013, 09:59:07 am
Yes, FFA. Didn't McClure basically do it with a fall and yo yo? I would have thought the 'crux' with a route like this is getting a partner to climb all the approach pitches and hang in hanging belays, for you to take the glory on the roof pitch!

I've only been to Pabbay once and despite it being an absolutely stunningly beautiful place, I found the climbing a bit boring. I know that's not a very fashionable thing to say, but most routes we did involved jug pulling up a steep wall/crack. You don't seem to get many technical moves. The best route we did was a FA through the right side of the Great Arch, which involved some weird roof coffin block traversing action and was mildly terrifying.
« Last Edit: July 02, 2013, 10:04:20 am by T_B »

andy_e

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#3870 Re: significant repeats
July 02, 2013, 10:06:27 am
Is this the same place as that OTE article which was supposed to be an attempt on the Nose but weather/birds prevented it so they sacked it to Pabbay? The cliff looks absolutely fantastic! Good effort Dave Mac.

SA Chris

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#3871 Re: significant repeats
July 02, 2013, 11:05:09 am
Yes, FFA. Didn't McClure basically do it with a fall and yo yo? I would have thought the 'crux' with a route like this is getting a partner to climb all the approach pitches and hang in hanging belays, for you to take the glory on the roof pitch!

That's what it says on the blog. Maybe his partner had had enough, hence no desire to have another shot. I think they were time restricted.

slackline

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#3872 Re: significant repeats
July 02, 2013, 11:36:36 am
That's what it says on the blog. Maybe his partner had had enough, hence no desire to have another shot. I think they were time restricted.

Time/other priorities (he and Lucy Creamer preferred to spend their last day "climbing in paradise" rather than redpointing the pitch).

Johnny Brown

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#3873 Re: significant repeats
July 02, 2013, 12:37:15 pm
Is this the same place as that OTE article which was supposed to be an attempt on the Nose but weather/birds prevented it so they sacked it to Pabbay?

Sounds like you might be confused with one of my articles on Strone/ Lewis?

Been on a boat trip around Pabbay/ Mingulay but not managed to climb there yet. Looks incredible.

Still waiting for Dave Mac to pay a visit to Eigg - could be a weekend hit from where he lives...

andy_e

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#3874 Re: significant repeats
July 02, 2013, 12:59:58 pm
Ah yes, sorry! Great article, that one!

 

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