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significant repeats (Read 2806296 times)

Doylo

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#3625 Re: significant repeats
March 20, 2013, 08:16:19 pm
Nice on Hazel. It's an impressive route. I belayed Mawson on it years ago (top rope)

dave

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#3626 Re: significant repeats
March 20, 2013, 08:32:19 pm
Has he got cornrows in that photo? Amazing.

iwasmexican

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Grubes

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#3628 Re: significant repeats
March 23, 2013, 06:39:04 pm
That is awesome news so glad he go it it done

Fiend

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#3629 Re: significant repeats
March 23, 2013, 07:08:47 pm
 :agree: totally, that is really cool given the hype surrounding the route and the levels of mutual syke and inspiration that Adam and him were sharing  :2thumbsup:

shark

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#3630 Re: significant repeats
March 23, 2013, 07:17:54 pm
lump in throat. great news

standard

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#3631 Re: significant repeats
March 23, 2013, 07:32:37 pm
lump in throat. great news


seriously?

IanP

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#3632 Re: significant repeats
March 23, 2013, 07:49:30 pm
sharmas done la dura dura

Awesome stuff. Strangley we were talking at the wall today about fact that sharma is still the guy who's. closest to ondra when it comes to hard routes. 

Has anyone other than ondra and sharma beenconfirmed as climbing 9b on a proper route (rather than boulder problem /route hybrid like ali-hulk)?

abarro81

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#3633 Re: significant repeats
March 23, 2013, 07:56:19 pm
Just ones with 'doubts' I believe: Bernabe Fernandez (Chilam Balam) and Fred Rouling (Akira)
http://escalade9.wifeo.com/9b.php

shark

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Tim Broughtonshaw

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#3635 Re: significant repeats
March 23, 2013, 08:09:43 pm

Danny

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ducko

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#3637 Re: significant repeats
March 23, 2013, 10:29:08 pm
sharma is the man

r-man

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#3638 Re: significant repeats
March 24, 2013, 11:11:16 am
Just ones with 'doubts' I believe: Bernabe Fernandez (Chilam Balam) and Fred Rouling (Akira)
http://escalade9.wifeo.com/9b.php

There's an easier to read list here

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Ag_Q7tFm2QsidHc4cGY4Tnl0bEhfSnZveFRweEhlN0E#gid=0

(sport climbing at the bottom)

Luke Owens

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#3639 Re: significant repeats
March 24, 2013, 11:36:30 am
Awesome effort from Sharma! Inspiring!

ianv

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#3640 Re: significant repeats
March 24, 2013, 01:09:21 pm
Just ones with 'doubts' I believe: Bernabe Fernandez (Chilam Balam) and Fred Rouling (Akira)
http://escalade9.wifeo.com/9b.php
I thought those rouling "doubts" had been put to bed and were now accepted as huber sour grapes.

Clart

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#3641 Re: significant repeats
March 25, 2013, 08:11:21 am
Just ones with 'doubts' I believe: Bernabe Fernandez (Chilam Balam) and Fred Rouling (Akira)
http://escalade9.wifeo.com/9b.php

No doubts on Chilam Balam, the Ondra machine repeated and said 9b (low end!). Bernabe Fernandez gave it 9b+ at the time and was flamed for it. Well harsh in hindsight as he was only half a grade out. Also I seem to remember Sharma and Andrada failing to repeat it a few months before:

IanP

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#3642 Re: significant repeats
March 25, 2013, 09:08:12 am
I thought those rouling "doubts" had been put to bed and were now accepted as huber sour grapes.

I think most people accept that Akira was climbed now and quite possibly is 9b, however doesn't it fall into the boulder / route hybrid catagory.

IanP

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#3643 Re: significant repeats
March 25, 2013, 09:21:19 am
No doubts on Chilam Balam, the Ondra machine repeated and said 9b (low end!). Bernabe Fernandez gave it 9b+ at the time and was flamed for it. Well harsh in hindsight as he was only half a grade out. Also I seem to remember Sharma and Andrada failing to repeat it a few months before:

Aren't there still doubts about whether Fernandez actually climbed it (lone wolf,  no witnesses / unknow belayer etc)?

In the end it looks like the main point re Ondra and Sharma stands - they've both climbed multiple 9bs and now 9b+ while there are no other top current climbers who've managed to even climb 1 9b 'proper' route.

Nibile

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#3644 Re: significant repeats
March 25, 2013, 10:33:45 am

Aren't there still doubts about whether Fernandez actually climbed it (lone wolf,  no witnesses / unknow belayer etc)?
Yes, I think that most doubts were about Fernandez's actual ascent. I read Andrada's comments in an old Desnivel issue, and he said he'd been on the route, and had found no trace of chalk or rubber in the higher part of the route. That, to him, did not go well with Fernandez saying he'd tried the route for two years or so...

Doylo

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#3645 Re: significant repeats
March 25, 2013, 01:35:12 pm
The other side reports Katy Whittaker ground upping Toy Boy.  The UKs best female slab climber? Proper talented....

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#3646 Re: significant repeats
March 25, 2013, 04:57:53 pm
The other side reports Katy Whittaker ground upping Toy Boy.  The UKs best female slab climber? Proper talented....

Well impressed  :bow:

shark

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#3647 Re: significant repeats
March 29, 2013, 11:35:55 am
http://www.facebook.com/climblox.sheffield

Quote from: Chris Webb-Parsons

Great night session at Badger Cove last night. Epic walk in through 1 meter deep snow to find the crag dry. 11pm and last attempt of the night and I had success on Dandelion Mind 8B+/V14. Then after an Icy drive home and feeling tired we found ourselves locked out the house so I had to climb the side of the house and break in through a window. A successful night of climbing..

Doylo

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#3648 Re: significant repeats
March 29, 2013, 12:05:42 pm
http://www.facebook.com/climblox.sheffield

Quote from: Chris Webb-Parsons

Great night session at Badger Cove last night. Epic walk in through 1 meter deep snow to find the crag dry. 11pm and last attempt of the night and I had success on Dandelion Mind 8B+/V14. Then after an Icy drive home and feeling tired we found ourselves locked out the house so I had to climb the side of the house and break in through a window. A successful night of climbing..

3rd ascent.

lukeyboy

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#3649 Re: significant repeats
March 30, 2013, 07:12:08 pm
Alex Mega has done la rambla second try, apparently very close to the flash :o also his first of the grade

 

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