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significant repeats (Read 4701818 times)

Luke Owens

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#3625 Re: significant repeats
March 24, 2013, 11:36:30 am
Awesome effort from Sharma! Inspiring!

ianv

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#3626 Re: significant repeats
March 24, 2013, 01:09:21 pm
Just ones with 'doubts' I believe: Bernabe Fernandez (Chilam Balam) and Fred Rouling (Akira)
http://escalade9.wifeo.com/9b.php
I thought those rouling "doubts" had been put to bed and were now accepted as huber sour grapes.

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#3627 Re: significant repeats
March 25, 2013, 08:11:21 am
Just ones with 'doubts' I believe: Bernabe Fernandez (Chilam Balam) and Fred Rouling (Akira)
http://escalade9.wifeo.com/9b.php

No doubts on Chilam Balam, the Ondra machine repeated and said 9b (low end!). Bernabe Fernandez gave it 9b+ at the time and was flamed for it. Well harsh in hindsight as he was only half a grade out. Also I seem to remember Sharma and Andrada failing to repeat it a few months before:

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#3628 Re: significant repeats
March 25, 2013, 09:08:12 am
I thought those rouling "doubts" had been put to bed and were now accepted as huber sour grapes.

I think most people accept that Akira was climbed now and quite possibly is 9b, however doesn't it fall into the boulder / route hybrid catagory.

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#3629 Re: significant repeats
March 25, 2013, 09:21:19 am
No doubts on Chilam Balam, the Ondra machine repeated and said 9b (low end!). Bernabe Fernandez gave it 9b+ at the time and was flamed for it. Well harsh in hindsight as he was only half a grade out. Also I seem to remember Sharma and Andrada failing to repeat it a few months before:

Aren't there still doubts about whether Fernandez actually climbed it (lone wolf,  no witnesses / unknow belayer etc)?

In the end it looks like the main point re Ondra and Sharma stands - they've both climbed multiple 9bs and now 9b+ while there are no other top current climbers who've managed to even climb 1 9b 'proper' route.

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#3630 Re: significant repeats
March 25, 2013, 10:33:45 am

Aren't there still doubts about whether Fernandez actually climbed it (lone wolf,  no witnesses / unknow belayer etc)?
Yes, I think that most doubts were about Fernandez's actual ascent. I read Andrada's comments in an old Desnivel issue, and he said he'd been on the route, and had found no trace of chalk or rubber in the higher part of the route. That, to him, did not go well with Fernandez saying he'd tried the route for two years or so...

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#3631 Re: significant repeats
March 25, 2013, 01:35:12 pm
The other side reports Katy Whittaker ground upping Toy Boy.  The UKs best female slab climber? Proper talented....

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#3632 Re: significant repeats
March 25, 2013, 04:57:53 pm
The other side reports Katy Whittaker ground upping Toy Boy.  The UKs best female slab climber? Proper talented....

Well impressed  :bow:

shark

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#3633 Re: significant repeats
March 29, 2013, 11:35:55 am
http://www.facebook.com/climblox.sheffield

Quote from: Chris Webb-Parsons

Great night session at Badger Cove last night. Epic walk in through 1 meter deep snow to find the crag dry. 11pm and last attempt of the night and I had success on Dandelion Mind 8B+/V14. Then after an Icy drive home and feeling tired we found ourselves locked out the house so I had to climb the side of the house and break in through a window. A successful night of climbing..

Doylo

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#3634 Re: significant repeats
March 29, 2013, 12:05:42 pm
http://www.facebook.com/climblox.sheffield

Quote from: Chris Webb-Parsons

Great night session at Badger Cove last night. Epic walk in through 1 meter deep snow to find the crag dry. 11pm and last attempt of the night and I had success on Dandelion Mind 8B+/V14. Then after an Icy drive home and feeling tired we found ourselves locked out the house so I had to climb the side of the house and break in through a window. A successful night of climbing..

3rd ascent.

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#3635 Re: significant repeats
March 30, 2013, 07:12:08 pm
Alex Mega has done la rambla second try, apparently very close to the flash :o also his first of the grade

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#3636 Re: significant repeats
March 31, 2013, 12:36:17 am
Already covered elsewhere :oops:

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#3637 Re: significant repeats
April 04, 2013, 09:09:39 pm
In case anyone misses it Ben Bransby has done the second ascent of Miles Gibson's Superstition at Burbage. Check out  the Snowballing 2013 edition thread for further commentary and an excellent video

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#3638 Re: significant repeats
April 04, 2013, 09:19:05 pm
Top stuff ben, nice vid :2thumbsup:

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#3639 Re: significant repeats
April 05, 2013, 08:02:02 am
Dave Jones has done High Fidelity in a session! That's reyt impressive!  :strongbench:

Bloody good work!

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#3640 Re: significant repeats
April 05, 2013, 08:59:40 am
Fuck! Good effort Dave!

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#3641 Re: significant repeats
April 05, 2013, 09:43:41 am
:o
:jaw:
wow that is majorly impressive

Doylo

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#3642 Re: significant repeats
April 05, 2013, 09:57:51 am
Monster

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#3643 Re: significant repeats
April 05, 2013, 02:36:25 pm
Am dead impressed with BB and Superstition - he's like the peoples champ!

Wood FT

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#3644 Re: significant repeats
April 05, 2013, 04:37:46 pm
Dave Jones has done High Fidelity in a session! That's reyt impressive!  :strongbench:

Bloody good work!

great effort

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#3645 Re: significant repeats
April 07, 2013, 08:18:07 pm
both very inspiring, well done fellas!!

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#3646 Re: significant repeats
April 07, 2013, 08:52:43 pm
Dave Jones has done High Fidelity in a session!

Good blog from Dave explaining how a ladder was a key ingredient to the success(as well as being a beast) http://www.bigstone.co.uk/climbing-team/david-jones/2013/04/07/A_game_changer/

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#3647 Re: significant repeats
April 07, 2013, 09:34:55 pm
Them telescopic jobbies are pretty handy, more and more people seem to be using them. Bugger to carry around though.

Percy B

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#3648 Re: significant repeats
April 08, 2013, 08:58:48 pm
According to facebobbins, Michele Caminati repeated Superstition today too. He's packing it all in as he's off home tomorrow... Samson yesterday, and Superstition today. Not a bad pair of days out!

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#3649 Re: significant repeats
April 08, 2013, 09:10:58 pm
According to facebobbins, Michele Caminati repeated Superstition today too. He's packing it all in as he's off home tomorrow... Samson yesterday, and Superstition today. Not a bad pair of days out!

Ned did it too, you know how it is; once the myth is broken every tom dick and harry get on it...

 

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