[Will Hunt]

Mawons thoughts on James new route:
http://www.bigstone.co.uk/news/2011/05/11/Neil_Mawson_checks_in/

Seems to be a big discrepancy in the two french grades offered 7c+ and 8a+.

This is a stunning addition to the West wall of Huntsmans leap and later found out James has called it 'Do you know where your children are?'. What a terrible name especially along side all those great names on that wall!'

The handbags are out 

[slackline]

How about we don't bother fueling the fire then?

[Fiend]

This is a stunning addition to the West wall of Huntsmans leap

The handbags are out 

No.....no they aren't.

Seems Neil finds climbing in The Leap a little bit easier than usual, including Bransby Pickford and Pearson routes. *SHRUG*

[Will Hunt]

Oh well. If we must be rational and sensible.

[cofe]

How about we don't bother fueling the fire then?

Exactly.

[Johnny Brown]

James did say the start was wet, though the starts to those routes always are. Could explain some of the discrepancy anyway. What I thought more interesting was this:

My opinion is that the level of climbing is a step up from similar routes in Pembroke, and is a little more “dangerous”.

I don't see why Muy Caliente wouldn't be fit into that 'similar' bracket... be interesting to see whether he has retired from commenting on grades, or its all being saved for a Climb exclusive? 

[AJM]

James did say the start was wet, though the starts to those routes always are. Could explain some of the discrepancy anyway.

His blog entry though does say something along the lines of "its a E6/7 into run out 8a+ climbing", which implies that he seems to reckon its Dusk til Dawn thats got the 8a+ on it..... maybe it feels harder after the start, but then he did do it with both starts - who knows really......

[Ethan]

Mawson has gone and done Muy Caliente.

[Doylo]

http://marmotukathleteblog.blogspot.com/

E9 maybe??

[T_B]

Neil did Pickford's route Brothers wotsit and downgraded that to E8, also Chupacabra (downgrading that to E8 when he found the rock 8 placement), then Sam Simeon... he's being modest when he says he's not qualified to comment on the grade as he's done quite a few of Pembroke's hardest routes (dunno if he's done Big Issue?) and he knows what F8a+ is.

[Johnny Brown]

Not so arsed about E9s, but that West Wall girdle sounds brilliant.

[Doylo]

and he knows what F8a+ is.

And slightly spicey 8a+ is E9

[slackline]

Point Break E8 ground up (second ever trad lead!) for Caroline Ciavaldini

Impressive stuff 

[csurfleet]

That is fuckin intense

[Fiend]

Pembroke in steep, safe, sustained and entirely suitable for strong sport climbers to crush SHOCKER 

Good on that lass for going for things properly!

[andy_e]

After grabbing an impressive first ascent yesterday (details to follow), "Dyno" Dave Gater repeated Maurice Gibb at Gib Torr today. Am I right in thinking this is one of only a few ascents?

Video to follow (if I can find out how to convert .mts to something Premiere Pro will understand!)

[Will Hunt]

< >
Is it just me being a total punter who doesn't get it or is it somewhat Mental with a capital 'M' to get someone on an E8 for their second trad route, especially when on their first trad route their gear placements weren't exactly tip top.

from time to time when pull-testing gear and a nut would pop out and hit her in the face

All very well on easy ground but from my experience with teaching people trad and watching those new to trad progress, it's when people start climbing at their limit that little errors that wouldn't be serious when cruising become compounded and lead to fuck ups. Especially with those from a sport climbing background as their physical ability is so far above their technical ability.

I mean she got the job done and obviously James' assessment of her trad skillz was sound and whatever she fell on was solid so congrats all round. It just seems like it could have gone either way. One of those ways ending in a big red splat at the bottom of Stennis Ford.
</ >

Sorry to be so dull. It is of course one of the most inspiring ascents that has been reported recently. I'm psyched. Rock on, Caro 

[mr__j5]

Well certainly significant in my house anyway:

Having only previously fondled some of the holds, this evening Diane Merrick started working Ben's Roof at the Tor. Had all of the moves worked out in about 1 1/2 hours and then sent it on the 3rd full try.

[Eddies]

"Dyno" Dave Gater repeated Maurice Gibb at Gib Torr today. Am I right in thinking this is one of only a few ascents?

2nd I think... the planets must be aligned!

[Nigel]

< >
Is it just me being a total punter who doesn't get it or is it somewhat Mental with a capital 'M' to get someone on an E8 for their second trad route, especially when on their first trad route their gear placements weren't exactly tip top.

from time to time when pull-testing gear and a nut would pop out and hit her in the face

All very well on easy ground but from my experience with teaching people trad and watching those new to trad progress, it's when people start climbing at their limit that little errors that wouldn't be serious when cruising become compounded and lead to fuck ups. Especially with those from a sport climbing background as their physical ability is so far above their technical ability.

I mean she got the job done and obviously James' assessment of her trad skillz was sound and whatever she fell on was solid so congrats all round. It just seems like it could have gone either way. One of those ways ending in a big red splat at the bottom of Stennis Ford.
</ >

Sorry to be so dull. It is of course one of the most inspiring ascents that has been reported recently. I'm psyched. Rock on, Caro 

Think it probably helps that the route is peppered with a plethora of threads. I'm sure James must have given a few pointers on the wires/cams too. So yes, you're being dull. Probably better on this than on a rubbly E3 with wierd gear.

[Ru]

Rob Sutton did True North today despite the wet holds.

[willackers]

Monster!

Him and Alan had to dry the holds off before every attempt! ha ha!

[andy_e]

[lukeyboy]

He made that look about 5+

[andy_e]

He has a habit of doing that.