[Moo]

no he plans to spend the rest of his time there sieging science friction

[northerngreg]

We've all been there...

[slackline]

See the blog for whats planned, Chaos, Big Dragon and The Island.

EDIT : Correction of problem name (just as well I linked to the blog)

[andy_e]

Bit of a detour to go from Font to Queen's.

[carlisle slapper]

P Whitty has flashed The Power of the Dark Side at the upper matlock quarries, more here.

http://fiveten.com/community/blog/10811-e8-flash

big cahones indeed and a fine effort.

[grimer]

Shit the bed that's impressive. From looking at this, it's not one of those 'highball E8' style routes. It's big and very intimidating looking. Out there.

I presume Tom's project is the amazing arete just to its left. These are two seriously inpressive lines, albeit in a bit of an underwhelming setting.

[Grubes]

P Whitty has flashed The Power of the Dark Side at the upper matlock quarries, more here.

http://fiveten.com/community/blog/10811-e8-flash

big cahones indeed and a fine effort.

Awesome 

[dan lane]

Very impressive, looks nails.

[Tommy]

Yeah, it's a great finish to 2010 for Pete. He's going so well at the moment it just not even a surprise any more some of the stuff he gets up! He looked so decisive on Power of the Dark Side - really solid. A good effort as well in the fact that it's little repeated so still a little of an unknown quantity.

[grimer]

From where I'm sitting, ie quite some distance away, in an armchair, Pete's flash is as impressive as Ryan's on Knocking.

[cofe]

Word is James did the other arete there the other day. Impressive stuff from both climbers if so. Two amazing lines.

[duncan]

Hazel Findlay has done the Bachar-Yerian, alternating leads with Will Stanhope.  Female ascentionists of the B-Y must be a pretty select club.

I see the borg have picked up on this.

Further digging suggests Lynn Hill got two pitches up the B-Y before bailing (The source,  Mr Gnome, is the second on this film, so presumably a fairly reliable source).


Sounds like Hazel might be the first female ascentionist.

[T_B]

Sounds like Hazel might be the first female ascentionist.

I did BY in '93 (?) with Eve Prickett (now Richards). Eve didn't lead any of the pitches, but she didn't fall off any either and she was only 16 at the time.

As an aside, I was a 'host' on a BMC meet to Font when Hazel must have been about 12? She was the most talented/confident of the youngsters, though Leah Crane was probably stronger/more competitive. Both stood out a mile. Tom Bolger was on the same trip (though he had a knackered finger). Look at em now eh!

[Johnny Brown]

Ah good, was about to post that but wasn't sure how true it was!

[slackline]

Look at em now eh!

You old git! 

[Drew]

Sounds like Hazel might be the first female ascentionist.

Obviously I have no idea how accurate this is, but the Rock & Ice magazine at work, from Dec '97 claims on the contents page "Lynn Hill does Bachar-Yerian", then goes on later in the mag to say she "led the key second and third pitches...". it doesn't go into any more detail than that.

[Krank]

Robison has done Kheops Assis in a session .
 http://27crags.com/teams/27-crags/blog/robinson-brings-in-the-new-year-with-kheops-assis-8b+

[Doylo]

These guys like Robinson and Woods really are operating at a fantastic standard, crushing everywhere.  Ty's stint in Font was a step up at the time. He went there and tore it up like no one had before. The bar has been raised again by the speed of these ascents by Robinson.  Ondra still kicks arse when he has his annual bouldering spree though!

[cofe]

Mickey Paige has done Big Paw by the looks of it.

[monkey boy]

Mick (Page not Paige) did do Big Paw, sure I put it on here. He also repeated Entlinge today!

[mrjonathanr]

Sounds like Hazel might be the first female ascentionist.

Obviously I have no idea how accurate this is, but the Rock & Ice magazine at work, from Dec '97 claims on the contents page "Lynn Hill does Bachar-Yerian", then goes on later in the mag to say she "led the key second and third pitches...". it doesn't go into any more detail than that.

I've climbed with Lynn and the idea that she'd bail on a route of that difficulty sounds improbable to me. can't add any real info though.

[Doylo]

Mick (Page not Paige) did do Big Paw, sure I put it on here. He also repeated Entlinge today!

For those who don't know this is a swiss 8c (4th ascent)? Zangerl doing it here:

[yorkshirewarcry]

High Fidelity got a repeaty today at Caley - not sure who the climber was, but there were some very vocal celebrations...

[cofe]

High Fidelity got a repeaty today at Caley - not sure who the climber was, but there were some very vocal celebrations...

Mark Katz I think.

[Andy F]

The Katz