willackers said:Pretty Sure Ned did it on the 9th Sep, same days as Mr Fantastic as well! Beast!
The problem, or Dave?
willackers said:Pretty Sure Ned did it on the 9th Sep, same days as Mr Fantastic as well! Beast!
willackers said:yorkshireman said:willackers said:Hmmmm, the anonymous beast strikes again................ :
just because he pipped you to the second ascent of catapult :-\
:'(
c.j.d. said:Dave Mason repeated New Noise at Tan Y Grisiau yesterday. I thought this significant as a number of strong folk have tried this problem, and not managed to get both feet off the ground.
Also, it was a fair few years ago that I did this, so good effort for the repeat visit to get this done. Dave did it the original way, but there was others around which lead to the discover of another undercut, which faces in a more desirable direction (not seen this before). I think it got done with the new hold, and it makes it more like 8a.
You can always trust the youths to find an easier sequence - I'd rather the power ( ).
Good effort guys!
tc said:
chillax said:Fastest ascent of an E10?
Fiend said:Correct but then they are a fair hypothetical estimate of what it would be like to trad climb such trad climbs in a trad manner, in the context of a system which is extrapolated from the bulk of trad climbs done in a trad manner...
Admittedly it will be a happy day when onsighting is the default for top-end trad repeats as well as standard ones.
Din't Steve McClure do Rhapsody in 3 sessions? Also I think I read James Pearson went up there with Steve and did all the moves on top rope really quickly and got demotivate by how easy it was to escape.chris05 said:me really want to see someone have a go at his climbs such as echo wall etc (seems unlikely).
Grubes said:Din't Steve McClure do Rhapsody in 3 sessions? Also I think I read James Pearson went up there with Steve and did all the moves on top rope really quickly and got demotivate by how easy it was to escape.chris05 said:me really want to see someone have a go at his climbs such as echo wall etc (seems unlikely).
chris05 said:Yes I was waiting for that, I dont think Steve did the same route/exit as Dave
chris_j_s said:chris05 said:Yes I was waiting for that, I dont think Steve did the same route/exit as Dave
Steve gave that suggestion short shrift though. It boiled down to him going for the same hold but with the left instead of right hand (or the other way around I can't remember exactly) which, to my mind, starts to look like Dave just used a slightly duff sequence! :-\
Grubes said:Didn't Steve McClure do Rhapsody in 3 sessions?chris05 said:me really want to see someone have a go at his climbs such as echo wall etc (seems unlikely).
Leo Moger and Rich Sharpe were the other two that repeated New Noise. Rich isn't sure how the new hold can make much difference as it is smaller, sharper and he's never climbed 8a before in 3 tries, or climbed 8a.... Logged
nodder said:Leo Moger and Rich Sharpe were the other two that repeated New Noise. Rich isn't sure how the new hold can make much difference as it is smaller, sharper and he's never climbed 8a before in 3 tries, or climbed 8a.... Logged
In the intrest of concensus what grade did they think it might be then?