significant repeats

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c.j.d. said:
Dave Mason repeated New Noise at Tan Y Grisiau yesterday. I thought this significant as a number of strong folk have tried this problem, and not managed to get both feet off the ground.

Also, it was a fair few years ago that I did this, so good effort for the repeat visit to get this done. Dave did it the original way, but there was others around which lead to the discover of another undercut, which faces in a more desirable direction (not seen this before). I think it got done with the new hold, and it makes it more like 8a.

You can always trust the youths to find an easier sequence - I'd rather the power ( ;)).

Good effort guys!

Leo Moger and Rich Sharpe were the other two that repeated New Noise. Rich isn't sure how the new hold can make much difference as it is smaller, sharper and he's never climbed 8a before in 3 tries, or climbed 8a....
 
chillax said:
Fastest ascent of an E10?

Forgive the grumpy old man rant, but...I AM a grumpy old man. It's all fucking bollocks, this big E-grade stuff. Most are extensively rehearsed, so the outcome is largely assured, the gear is left in place, the route climbed, then a huge E-number is attached to what is basically a sport climb, which is the cue for sponsors and ignorant sycophants to line up to suck the hero's dick. Trad grades should be used only for trad climbs done in a trad manner.
Fucking hell, I feel better for that. :)
Now where did I put my flameproof cardigan?
 
Correct but then they are a fair hypothetical estimate of what it would be like to trad climb such trad climbs in a trad manner, in the context of a system which is extrapolated from the bulk of trad climbs done in a trad manner...

Admittedly it will be a happy day when onsighting is the default for top-end trad repeats as well as standard ones.
 
Fiend said:
Correct but then they are a fair hypothetical estimate of what it would be like to trad climb such trad climbs in a trad manner, in the context of a system which is extrapolated from the bulk of trad climbs done in a trad manner...

Admittedly it will be a happy day when onsighting is the default for top-end trad repeats as well as standard ones.

Off topic discussion continued in Chuffing here
 
According to Tim Emmett:

"Dave MacLeod got the third ascent of Muy Caliente! on Sunday :) Dave Pickford got some brilliant pictures - watch this space! Dave agrees with the grade"
(facebook)

Sounds like another quick ascent. The speed at which Dave repeats stuff south of the border makes me really want to see someone have a go at his climbs such as echo wall etc (seems unlikely).
 
chris05 said:
me really want to see someone have a go at his climbs such as echo wall etc (seems unlikely).
Din't Steve McClure do Rhapsody in 3 sessions? Also I think I read James Pearson went up there with Steve and did all the moves on top rope really quickly and got demotivate by how easy it was to escape.
 
Grubes said:
chris05 said:
me really want to see someone have a go at his climbs such as echo wall etc (seems unlikely).
Din't Steve McClure do Rhapsody in 3 sessions? Also I think I read James Pearson went up there with Steve and did all the moves on top rope really quickly and got demotivate by how easy it was to escape.

Yes I was waiting for that, I dont think Steve did the same route/exit as Dave and Sonny Trotter did two or three different versions including Dave's. The consensus seemed to be that Dave's version was a bit eliminate (something he didn't disagree with). I was bouldering at Dumbarton while Steve and Sonny etc were trying Dave's route and it made exciting viewing, eliminate or not!

I guess its just the difference between new routing (not knowing if its even possible) and repeating a climb.
 
chris05 said:
Yes I was waiting for that, I dont think Steve did the same route/exit as Dave


Steve gave that suggestion short shrift though. It boiled down to him going for the same hold but with the left instead of right hand (or the other way around I can't remember exactly) which, to my mind, starts to look like Dave just used a slightly duff sequence! :-\
 
chris_j_s said:
chris05 said:
Yes I was waiting for that, I dont think Steve did the same route/exit as Dave


Steve gave that suggestion short shrift though. It boiled down to him going for the same hold but with the left instead of right hand (or the other way around I can't remember exactly) which, to my mind, starts to look like Dave just used a slightly duff sequence! :-\

ahh fair enough, probably best not to get back into that debate, we're not on ukc after all :p
 
Grubes said:
chris05 said:
me really want to see someone have a go at his climbs such as echo wall etc (seems unlikely).
Didn't Steve McClure do Rhapsody in 3 sessions?

I'm pretty sure he did it on his second Redpoint attempt. Let's be fair though, he's climbed 9a+, and Rhapsody is 8c?
 
Leo Moger and Rich Sharpe were the other two that repeated New Noise. Rich isn't sure how the new hold can make much difference as it is smaller, sharper and he's never climbed 8a before in 3 tries, or climbed 8a.... Logged

In the intrest of concensus what grade did they think it might be then?
 
nodder said:
Leo Moger and Rich Sharpe were the other two that repeated New Noise. Rich isn't sure how the new hold can make much difference as it is smaller, sharper and he's never climbed 8a before in 3 tries, or climbed 8a.... Logged

In the intrest of concensus what grade did they think it might be then?

I believe Leo has said he thinks it could be anywhere from 7b+ to 7c+ due to the fact that when he did it he was injured, tired and climbing badly. But he is the strongest man alive so I'm not sure if that is a fair analysis. I would say it is one of the hardest climbs I've done but would say definitely no harder than 8a maybee even 7c+ with the slightly different hold but I'm really not the person to grade it as I've never climbed 8a, I'm gonna say 7c+ now.
I also have to say the original sequence is very hard and watching Dave mason climb it this way was amazing, I couldn't even pull on this way and he made it look easy, beast.

Best some other wads get on it with the new knowledge and let's us know what they think I'd certainly like a second opinion
 
Cheers for the reply, got to give si as many headaches as possible for the second edition. Its my job. Should be easy with feedback like 7b+/7c+. Good effort by the way.
 
Just found out Polish Dave did Keen Roof about a week ago. Very pleased for him - it's been an epic!
 


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