UKBouldering.com

significant repeats (Read 5022483 times)

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4978
  • Karma: +111/-30
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#400 Re: significant repeats
May 24, 2009, 07:25:04 pm
Master Pearson repeated Pot Of Gold today at Longridge. (V11) Again preferring the mono finger lock. 4th ascent.

monkey boy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1207
  • Karma: +65/-0
#401 Re: significant repeats
May 29, 2009, 10:51:42 am
16 year old Shauna Coxsey made light work of a string of problems in the high Font 7s, most notably Alta at Isatis.  Although there is some discussion about the grade of Alta (it is written at Font 7C+ in one guide and Font 7B+ in another), it is still a powerful proposition and Shauna dispatched it in just a few tries.

Shauna also made a quick ascent of Carnage sit start (Font 7C), at Bas Cuvier and the very crimpy Rubis sur Angle (Font 7B+) at Gorge au Chat. In addition she climbed a string of Font 7B's including the burly Biceps Mou at Bas Cuvier.

From ukc, i think this is a pretty good effort!

dave

  • Guest
#402 Re: significant repeats
May 29, 2009, 11:00:11 am
classic ukc, can't even spell Rubis Sur L'Ongle right!

fatneck

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2906
  • Karma: +143/-3
  • Fishing Helm
#403 Re: significant repeats
May 29, 2009, 11:51:18 am
It's about time Shauna started crushing properly i.e outdoors. I've enjoyed watching her progress over the last few years and am sure she'll climb much much harder soon. Good work!

Paul B

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 9792
  • Karma: +269/-4
#404 Re: significant repeats
May 29, 2009, 12:54:23 pm
Shauna also made a quick ascent of Carnage sit start (Font 7C), at Bas Cuvier and the very crimpy Rubis sur Angle (Font 7B+) at Gorge au Chat. In addition she climbed a string of Font 7B's including the burly Biceps Mou at Bas Cuvier.

From ukc, i think this is a pretty good effort!

I agree, but I wish people would stop climbing Carnage assis, its dog turd and its like taking easy pickings.

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4978
  • Karma: +111/-30
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#405 Re: significant repeats
May 29, 2009, 01:16:20 pm
Shauna also made a quick ascent of Carnage sit start (Font 7C), at Bas Cuvier and the very crimpy Rubis sur Angle (Font 7B+) at Gorge au Chat. In addition she climbed a string of Font 7B's including the burly Biceps Mou at Bas Cuvier.

From ukc, i think this is a pretty good effort!

I agree, but I wish people would stop climbing Carnage assis, its dog turd and its like taking easy pickings.

My excuse was that it was pretty much the only dry rock we could find!  :-[

monkey boy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1207
  • Karma: +65/-0
#406 Re: significant repeats
May 29, 2009, 02:48:23 pm
Shauna also made a quick ascent of Carnage sit start (Font 7C), at Bas Cuvier and the very crimpy Rubis sur Angle (Font 7B+) at Gorge au Chat. In addition she climbed a string of Font 7B's including the burly Biceps Mou at Bas Cuvier.

From ukc, i think this is a pretty good effort!

I agree, but I wish people would stop climbing Carnage assis, its dog turd and its like taking easy pickings.

Agreed but you can see the temptation if you can cruise carnage!! I thought alta was the really good thing here, the main move is burly!

Paul B

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 9792
  • Karma: +269/-4
#407 Re: significant repeats
May 29, 2009, 04:04:35 pm
no I can't... I'd move over to Berezina, or go for a walk for 10 minutes and get stuck into Noir Desir, or Tristesse, or Big Boss. Maybe fourmis?

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#408 Re: significant repeats
May 29, 2009, 04:20:04 pm
Alta defo very impressive.

Paul B

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 9792
  • Karma: +269/-4
#409 Re: significant repeats
May 29, 2009, 04:49:45 pm
absolutely, when was it done? a few mates got back a while ago and said it had been roasting and the top of Alta felt impossible given conditions  :jaw:

monkey boy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1207
  • Karma: +65/-0
#410 Re: significant repeats
May 29, 2009, 05:41:12 pm
Just says easter! Everyone i know says it was boiling out there so extra waddage points!

no I can't... I'd move over to Berezina, or go for a walk for 10 minutes and get stuck into Noir Desir, or Tristesse, or Big Boss. Maybe fourmis?

I know but the temptation is still there, a quick 7c tick in the bag and then onto the next!! Dont be such a scrouge paul!  :lol:

Paul B

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 9792
  • Karma: +269/-4
#411 Re: significant repeats
May 29, 2009, 07:30:48 pm
you said it all for me Dave, I rest my case.

philo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1090
  • Karma: +22/-9
#412 Re: significant repeats
June 05, 2009, 07:53:49 pm
3rd ascent of arc royal too, chris graham done it ground up  :dance1:

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#413 Re: significant repeats
June 05, 2009, 10:18:42 pm
3rd ascent of arc royal too, chris graham done it ground up  :dance1:

hell yeah!

monkey boy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1207
  • Karma: +65/-0
#414 Re: significant repeats
June 06, 2009, 07:45:59 pm
Mina did seans problem at crag x on thursday!

Paul B

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 9792
  • Karma: +269/-4
#415 Re: significant repeats
June 06, 2009, 11:03:34 pm
3rd ascent of arc royal too, chris graham done it ground up  :dance1:

seeing as though I'm leaving the country for a while soon; may I ask has anyone repeated this yet straight up as per Dan?

hairich

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 374
  • Karma: +13/-2
#416 Re: significant repeats
June 06, 2009, 11:15:35 pm
dom wragg did graviton 3rd go 7b way on his 14th.i say tick after lots of respected opinions.paul you and nat having a leaving

benj_d

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 226
  • Karma: +5/-1
#417 Re: significant repeats
June 06, 2009, 11:54:14 pm
3rd ascent of arc royal too, chris graham done it ground up  :dance1:

seeing as though I'm leaving the country for a while soon; may I ask has anyone repeated this yet straight up as per Dan?

If you mean continuing up the arete rather than going right to then do the dyno bit then i believe the answer is no, no one has done it.

a dense loner

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7165
  • Karma: +388/-28
#418 Re: significant repeats
June 07, 2009, 02:33:32 pm
no, ark royal not yet been repeated on the arete.

rich, graviton is not 7b until the day all the bottom holds fall off. 7a is still a good effort for dom, it is no harder than this

Monolith

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Straight outta Cronton.
  • Posts: 3955
  • Karma: +218/-6
#419 Re: significant repeats
June 07, 2009, 07:26:49 pm
...said the lord on the seventh day.

(But yes.)

Paul B

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 9792
  • Karma: +269/-4
#420 Re: significant repeats
June 07, 2009, 08:24:55 pm
paul you and nat having a leaving

I guess if we find time we ought to. It'll be a sorry scene, Nat and I sat with Dense (no doubt wearing a party hat).  :boohoo:

c3po

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 56
  • Karma: +2/-1
#421 Re: significant repeats
June 09, 2009, 08:48:57 pm
Sam from Blackpool repeated Kaizan at Woodwell starting from the bottom of the ramp, I'v seen him doing the moves today and he was solid on them. BEAST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

GCW

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • No longer a
  • Posts: 8177
  • Karma: +368/-38
#422 Re: significant repeats
June 09, 2009, 08:55:46 pm
Good stuff, he's been close for a while.

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4978
  • Karma: +111/-30
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#423 Re: significant repeats
June 09, 2009, 09:00:55 pm
Sam from Blackpool repeated Kaizan at Woodwell starting from the bottom of the ramp, I'v seen him doing the moves today and he was solid on them. BEAST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Was that the original Gaskins sequence?

Nike Air

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 685
  • Karma: +73/-1
#424 Re: significant repeats
June 09, 2009, 09:52:12 pm
Sam from Blackpool repeated Kaizan at Woodwell starting from the bottom of the ramp, I'v seen him doing the moves today and he was solid on them. BEAST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Was that the original Gaskins sequence?

By the sounds of it he repeated it like Katz did, starting off the slot at the bottom of the ramp.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal