significant repeats

UKBouldering.com

Help Support UKBouldering.com:

hairich said:
paul you and nat having a leaving

I guess if we find time we ought to. It'll be a sorry scene, Nat and I sat with Dense (no doubt wearing a party hat). :boohoo:
 
Sam from Blackpool repeated Kaizan at Woodwell starting from the bottom of the ramp, I'v seen him doing the moves today and he was solid on them. BEAST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
c3po said:
Sam from Blackpool repeated Kaizan at Woodwell starting from the bottom of the ramp, I'v seen him doing the moves today and he was solid on them. BEAST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Was that the original Gaskins sequence?
 
Adam Lincoln said:
c3po said:
Sam from Blackpool repeated Kaizan at Woodwell starting from the bottom of the ramp, I'v seen him doing the moves today and he was solid on them. BEAST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Was that the original Gaskins sequence?

By the sounds of it he repeated it like Katz did, starting off the slot at the bottom of the ramp.
 
this isn't the original else we would have been told that kaizen had been repeated. what is this problem "the art of cloning kaizen"? whilst obviously a good effort is this an independant problem? does it have another name? another grade?
on a serious note i did pinch 2 a good few years ago, this isn't strictly true since i used a few of the same holds and found out it was zippy's problem
with regards to pinch 2 moon obviously used the shit polished lf to make it a harder proposition since they were interested in doing eliminate problems on 12 ft sq bits of lime. as a for instance when i first heard of ryans repeat of pinch 2 i was like good effort that must have been hideous to get your lf there. then when he told me how he did it i said that's not pinch 2. this may sound like sour grapes or nonsense but what i'm saying makes absolutely no sense unless you care about little bits of shit rock and preserving the nature of the problem. not having a go at ryan there who as everyone knows is a far better climber than i could ever be, or at sam, it's just that established eliminate problems are exactly that.
anyone who has got pinch 2 ticked without the proper sequence can get to fuck
 
Is that not where it started though? Not sure but I thought so, Lakes bloc just says the roof direct, missing the crack on the right out. The line on the topo looks like it comes from there? :shrug: Effort either way.
 
a dense loner said:
with regards to pinch 2 ...

what did ryan do?

I agree with what you say about sticking rigidly to eliminates, although Andy in the guide gives a split grade "depending on who who ask, and exactly how they did it" implying that he thinks that there is more than one correct sequence? I'd be interested to know what [presumably slight] differences there are.
 
for those who can be arsed

Orignal sequence
from RH-pinch, LH- slopey crimp
RF- low edge, LF- smear out left (the crucial bit)
then pull through to pinch(RH) fully weighting smear (this is the hard bit)
keeping LFon smear RF smear out right & slap to sloper (LH)

Newer sequence (although this is how Jason did the 3rd ascent circa 95)
from pinch & sloper just jump or lank direct to pinch then as above
 
Nice one. Cheers Andy. Were there any ascents using the left smear without pof?
 
nodder said:
Is that not where it started though? Not sure but I thought so, Lakes bloc just says the roof direct, missing the crack on the right out. The line on the topo looks like it comes from there? :shrug: Effort either way.

Samuel rang us last night n wanted me to clear this up a bit. In his words he did Kaizen the Gay way, about Fnt8a+. Nodder the original went off a block at the bottom that has now gone. So this alternate way is a damn site easier. Originally you had a foot lock of the block to get into the roof and then you were basically cutting loose hanging the crimps in the roof and slammin your foot on the ramp. The 'Gay Way' means you are essentially established with feet on ramp already.
Anyway there you go, Personally a fuckin hate the place, the problems are all shit, and... if anyone makes one more eliminate up they should be locked in a padded cell, and condemened for disillusionment. But then im just bitter.
 
Not sure if it has been repeated directly since the block went but when I went to Woodwell last summer I had a little play on Kaizen. It was still possible to do the start without feet on the ramp (direct start). Can't remember exacly how but there was somewhere to cam a foot and reach the two flat crimps in the roof. It was the crux section where you get that gaston crimp and move your feet over to the ramp that gave me trouble. It's certainly still possible to do it directly from what I can remember.
 
Yeah its will def still go direct, and prob the same grade, like you say tom the hard bits getting foot onto the ramp. Thus this way is a bit of a cop out. Although a worthy problem if you've ticked the crag and got naff all else to do. :eek:
 
Oh yeah absolutely, not taking anything away from the lad. Still a fine effort. Just in my opinion the crux of Kaizen is moving your feet and pulling in. Just because that block has broken doesn't mean that it's not possible anymore (I should point out that I have only been to woodwell once and tried this for about 15 minutes so my memory is hazy).
 
yer exactly, its tough bit of climbing he's done. But we agreed n in his own words.. 'the gay way'. (no offence intended by way)
 
Andy B said:
Were there any ascents using the left smear without pof?

Andy Brown repeated this 'back in the day' i.e. before 2000 and wouldn't have used pof. I can't say for definite which smear he would have used but he was usually pretty anal about footholds, history, eliminates etc.
 


Write your reply...

Latest posts

Back
Top