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significant repeats (Read 2878601 times)

jwi

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#9800 Re: significant repeats
July 29, 2021, 08:39:45 am
Seb Berthe has repeated Edu Marin's Arco Iris (200m, 8c+ max) in Montserrat. Berthe confirms the grade of the hardest pitch after having taken a 25m fall while working the route.

https://www.grimper.com/news-seb-berthe-offre-arco-iris-200m-8c-max

JackPal

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#9801 Re: significant repeats
July 29, 2021, 10:18:34 am
Aidan on a tear in wales again, Wedgie, DnB and everything at the gop in a session barring one low start. I think the gop session alone is 9 8th grade boulders.

remus

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#9802 Re: significant repeats
July 29, 2021, 10:28:31 am
Aidan on a tear in wales again, Wedgie, DnB and everything at the gop in a session barring one low start. I think the gop session alone is 9 8th grade boulders.

New low start to Hustled at 8B as well https://www.instagram.com/p/CRv7D2eDPnu/

I wonder whether he'd be keen for a look at Gaskins' Problem on pill box wall  :-\

yetix

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#9803 Re: significant repeats
July 29, 2021, 10:33:23 am
Aidan on a tear in wales again, Wedgie, DnB and everything at the gop in a session barring one low start. I think the gop session alone is 9 8th grade boulders.

How long did wedgie take him out of curiosity??

JackPal

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#9804 Re: significant repeats
July 29, 2021, 10:37:32 am
Didn’t do it in a session. He’d been on it before and split. I think it may have been one of the days he had sunstroke. Imagine if he had good tactics. He could be decent.

teestub

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#9805 Re: significant repeats
July 29, 2021, 10:41:51 am
Aidan on a tear in wales again, Wedgie, DnB and everything at the gop in a session barring one low start. I think the gop session alone is 9 8th grade boulders.

DnB = Dead and Bloated?

JackPal

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#9806 Re: significant repeats
July 29, 2021, 10:51:08 am
Yeah sorry, Dead n Bloated, seems mad that a really hard 8B seems almost irrelevant news cause of the level of the climber who did it.

Re the pill box, Danny said/sang it best in Doyle’s vid, nothing compares! Aidan and Dan got a way to go still to catch the G.  ;)

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#9807 Re: significant repeats
July 29, 2021, 10:55:00 am
Well they're not going to catch him up if they keep being filmed actually doing stuff!

teestub

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#9808 Re: significant repeats
July 29, 2021, 11:06:21 am
Thanks Jack, good to have the roving reporter back out and about! I guess Aidan’s Gop session was probably a nice power training work out at around 80% of his max!

Doylo

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#9809 Re: significant repeats
July 29, 2021, 12:30:51 pm
Aidan on a tear in wales again, Wedgie, DnB and everything at the gop in a session barring one low start. I think the gop session alone is 9 8th grade boulders.

How long did wedgie take him out of curiosity??

Did it first go on the day i heard. The first day was way too hot. Sounds like he could have flashed ..

Will Hunt

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#9810 Re: significant repeats
July 29, 2021, 12:45:52 pm
I think we're talking at cross-purposes. I didn't mention glueing holds back on until you brought it up - I was thinking of Love Sculpture and I suspect you were thinking of Wonderwall.

Wood FT

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#9811 Re: significant repeats
August 24, 2021, 05:42:20 pm
About as significant a repeat as you’ll get on sport…

https://www.instagram.com/p/CS9qgxXs1WK/?utm_medium=copy_link

Bibliographie 9c, repeated by Stefano Ghisolfi

edshakey

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#9812 Re: significant repeats
August 24, 2021, 05:43:49 pm
About as significant a repeat as you’ll get on sport…

https://www.instagram.com/p/CS9qgxXs1WK/?utm_medium=copy_link

Bibliographie 9c, repeated by Stefano Ghisolfi

Just as I was typing it out!

Massive, wonder if he'll give it a downgrade ;)

AMorris

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#9813 Re: significant repeats
August 24, 2021, 05:50:25 pm
About as significant a repeat as you’ll get on sport…

https://www.instagram.com/p/CS9qgxXs1WK/?utm_medium=copy_link

Bibliographie 9c, repeated by Stefano Ghisolfi

Came here to post this but knew someone would get there before me :lol: fantastic achievement! He posted a great video looking at the holds the other day, which depending on your preferences will either be fascinating or the absolute most boring video imaginable

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#9814 Re: significant repeats
August 24, 2021, 06:55:32 pm
Young German crusher Solveig Korherr has done Cabane au Canada at Rawyl for her first of the grade.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CS8MOKfDaENQv_b0IsPU_cykrYH4CyfA5Mb6t00/

teestub

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#9815 Re: significant repeats
August 24, 2021, 08:34:18 pm
Amazing! Ghisolfi having a better year than Ondra with his World Cup performance too

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#9816 Re: significant repeats
August 24, 2021, 10:23:18 pm
Waddage. Will be interesting to see what he says on the grade, haven't been keeping track but seems like he polished it off pretty quickly compared to Megos (who spent ~60 days on it).

jwi

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#9817 Re: significant repeats
August 25, 2021, 09:13:55 am
Seems a lot quicker than his ascent of Perfecto Mundo (32 days over one year) but a lot longer than he needed to do Change 🤷🏼‍♂️

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#9818 Re: significant repeats
August 25, 2021, 09:29:03 am
Almost like he's improving.

UKC report says 1 month over two trips for change, guess that's time in flatanger, not days on the route?

Kingy

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#9819 Re: significant repeats
August 25, 2021, 09:30:45 am
Wow, what a phenomenal effort by Stefano and pretty unexpected as he was making it look like he was miles away on his videos.

I reckon he is in amazing shape and agree, he has probably got stronger and gained more confidence since doing those 9b+'s from all the time he spent projecting them. It is perhaps a little misleading to compare the days he spent on them with Biblio. For example, if Stefano had (hypothetically speaking) not yet done Perfecto Mundo and were fly to Margalef now, would be take as long to do it? I think not, my money would be on him doing it in a week!

Will be interesting to hear his thoughts.

Duma

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#9820 Re: significant repeats
August 25, 2021, 09:56:12 am
His full number grade onsight/redpoint differential makes me feel better about mine!

jwi

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#9821 Re: significant repeats
August 25, 2021, 10:17:16 am
Almost like he's improving.

A foreign concept for us middle aged people

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#9822 Re: significant repeats
August 25, 2021, 12:10:40 pm
Amazing! Ghisolfi having a better year than Ondra with his World Cup performance too

Imagine not having to train for speed climbing

teestub

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#9823 Re: significant repeats
August 25, 2021, 12:59:57 pm

Imagine not having to train for speed climbing

It was even better when it looked like they were going to have to wear mankinis for the speed bit. You might be motherfucking Adam Ondra but you’re still wearing a Lycra onesie

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#9824 Re: significant repeats
August 25, 2021, 04:20:02 pm
Ghisolfi has to be considered a serious contender for best sport climber in the world really. I mean how many 9b+s are there? Vasil Vasil, Change, Perfecto Mundo and La Dura Dura, and he's done half of them (and all the ones he's tried) plus now Bibliographie and his own 9b/+ too. That's more than Megos and almost as many as Ondra, and he's also had a better time of it in comps recently.

Hope he goes to Flatanger again and does Silence.

 

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