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significant repeats (Read 2928647 times)

Doylo

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#9750 Re: significant repeats
June 27, 2021, 09:57:11 am
Aiden has got himself up Isles of Wonder, 8B, third go according to his Instagram. That guy is crazy strong!

That’s the other one, think he’s called Will  ;)
Aidan did it too recently though.
Surely someone will do the sit soon.

James Malloch

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#9751 Re: significant repeats
June 27, 2021, 10:06:07 am
Aiden has got himself up Isles of Wonder, 8B, third go according to his Instagram. That guy is crazy strong!

That’s the other one, think he’s called Will  ;)
Aidan did it too recently though.
Surely someone will do the sit soon.

:chair:
Too early in the morning for me. Only halfway though my coffee…

remus

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#9752 Re: significant repeats
June 27, 2021, 11:37:09 pm
Hazel Findlay did Muy Caliente E9 in Pembroke today. There was a camera crew there so hopefully some footage will appear at some point.

Duncan campbell

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#9753 Re: significant repeats
June 28, 2021, 09:18:51 am
Sounds like there were a few sketchy moments due to damp pockets. Hazel was saying that due to being short she has to use some extra holds that Angus could avoid, hence him doing it a while back whilst Hazel decided not to go for it then. Surprised she went for it as she was saying it wasn’t justifiable if it was wet. We talked about the potential of using tin foil in some of the pockets so I wonder if she did that? Think she has been down a few times and I imagine this in addition to having a film crew might have pushed her to go for it, whether that is correct or not.

Fultonius

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#9754 Re: significant repeats
June 28, 2021, 12:38:53 pm
Sounds like there were a few sketchy moments due to damp pockets. Hazel was saying that due to being short she has to use some extra holds that Angus could avoid, hence him doing it a while back whilst Hazel decided not to go for it then. Surprised she went for it as she was saying it wasn’t justifiable if it was wet. We talked about the potential of using tin foil in some of the pockets so I wonder if she did that? Think she has been down a few times and I imagine this in addition to having a film crew might have pushed her to go for it, whether that is correct or not.
.

 Tin foil? 5g causing problems down there?

SA Chris

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#9755 Re: significant repeats
June 28, 2021, 01:12:58 pm
Tinfoil is aid anyway.

spidermonkey09

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#9756 Re: significant repeats
June 30, 2021, 09:26:41 am
Ted Kingsnorth has done Progress 8c+ at Kilnsey after a mighty siege spread over several seasons. Great effort!

Fiend

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#9757 Re: significant repeats
June 30, 2021, 10:22:56 am
 :strongbench: :strongbench:

Wood FT

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#9758 Re: significant repeats
June 30, 2021, 05:50:13 pm
Well done, Ted!

Andy F

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#9759 Re: significant repeats
June 30, 2021, 05:57:05 pm
Well done Ted. Excellent siege skills.

Kingy

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#9760 Re: significant repeats
July 01, 2021, 12:41:57 am
Cheers guys! Onto pastures new, time for some new challengers, great scene on North Buttress at the mo...

shark

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#9761 Re: significant repeats
July 01, 2021, 09:59:26 am
Nice write up on 8a.nu Ted and happy birthday!

https://www.8a.nu/news/progress-8c+-by-ted-kingsnorth-44

SA Chris

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#9762 Re: significant repeats
July 01, 2021, 10:22:36 am
Effort Youth  :)

SA Chris

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#9763 Re: significant repeats
July 08, 2021, 09:43:46 am
Looks like Vadim Timonov did the Finnish Line on his first day at Rocklands.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CQ9HxOHjfUb/

edshakey

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#9764 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2021, 09:56:24 am
Hazel has flashed Surreal Appeal, E7 at Rhoscolyn
https://www.instagram.com/p/CRGYGnbr-hg/

remus

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#9765 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2021, 11:29:52 am
Good effort, sounds like less than ideal conditions too.

Don't think there's many british women who've flashed or onsighted E7 before? Lucy creamer did Boss Hogg which could get E7 depending on who you ask.

edshakey

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#9766 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2021, 12:23:20 pm
Quick research has yielded:

Emma Twyford flashed Yukan II (potentially soft E7) and Bucket Dynasty (seems now established as E7) in 2014

"Karen Magog, Lucy Creamer and Glenda have all onsighted E7" from a 2003 UKC post, but no more details to back it up that I can see

Fiend

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#9767 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2021, 12:25:23 pm
If only we had someone on here who was good at collating records of hard UK climbing ascents....  :-\

shark

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#9768 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2021, 12:31:30 pm
Lucy creamer did Boss Hogg which could get E7 depending on who you ask.

No chance - says who?

remus

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#9769 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2021, 12:41:28 pm
Lucy creamer did Boss Hogg which could get E7 depending on who you ask.

No chance - says who?

I think it was a BMC interview that had it down as E7? Gets E6 on UKC though, and all votes are for E6.

remus

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#9770 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2021, 12:46:34 pm
If only we had someone on here who was good at collating records of hard UK climbing ascents....  :-\

Working on it! Unfortunately listification is a slow business, particularly as we start looking at more niche subject areas.

remus

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#9771 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2021, 12:49:36 pm
Quick research has yielded:

Emma Twyford flashed Yukan II (potentially soft E7) and Bucket Dynasty (seems now established as E7) in 2014

"Karen Magog, Lucy Creamer and Glenda have all onsighted E7" from a 2003 UKC post, but no more details to back it up that I can see

Good skills. I think yukan ii is considered E6 these days? Caff reckons bucket dynasty is E7 so that's good enough for me.

Karin's got a couple under her belt by the looks of it, and Glenda's onsighted The Bells! The Bells! Anyone got any knowledge on whether Lucy has onsighted a less contentions E7 than boss hogg?

shark

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#9772 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2021, 12:52:00 pm

I think it was a BMC interview that had it down as E7? Gets E6 on UKC though, and all votes are for E6.

On a similar subject I belayed a woman on Sunday who rinsed Aberration which features regularly on your strong lady list. She says she’s done harder 7c’s…

remus

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#9773 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2021, 01:37:41 pm

I think it was a BMC interview that had it down as E7? Gets E6 on UKC though, and all votes are for E6.

On a similar subject I belayed a woman on Sunday who rinsed Aberration which features regularly on your strong lady list. She says she’s done harder 7c’s…

I'll add it to the "downgrade the peak's most popular soft touches (starring keen roof)" todo list.

What's her full name by the way? Sounds like someone missing from the list!

mr chaz

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#9774 Re: significant repeats
July 09, 2021, 01:53:03 pm


I'll add it to the "downgrade the peak's most popular soft touches (starring keen roof)" todo list.



Would look remarkably similar to my 'to do' list

 

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