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significant repeats (Read 3733821 times)

countyyoungin

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#9225 Re: significant repeats
October 29, 2020, 10:22:01 am
To be fair when I was on it that first part felt pretty solid to me. Non of those holds on the shield felt scrittly at all, did you stabilise any of it Franco? I think Niall said he had a play on it with a rope last Nov, so think they are indeed the first. Need will Bosi or Jim to turn up and flash it now!

Franco

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#9226 Re: significant repeats
October 29, 2020, 10:51:00 am
Really? The start seemed like one of the scrittliest things I've ever been on. I didn't no. The only things I've ever glued in the county are NL and SOTD. Someone had definitely put some glue on it when I was trying it though. I went up there several times and just turned around because of the condition of it - this was during a spell of much drier weather than we've had for the last month. It's no biggy really. Many of us have climbed on county rock in sub optimal conditions (I have certainly climbed on rock that I shouldn't have), but I think it's important that people reading this who are keen for the young realise you basically need a bit of a winter drought to make an ethically sound ascent outside of the summer months. That woodland is pretty much temperate rainforest. I would have thought a flash ascent wouldn't be that cutting edge now. Think the hardest sequence on it is font 7b and a totally fine fall.  :worms:

countyyoungin

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#9227 Re: significant repeats
October 29, 2020, 11:09:56 am
Yeah genuinely, they all felt fine to me. Wonder who would have put that on only a few people trapesing about up there really. That woodland is temperate I think, Alex and Cal aren't daft though (no in that sense anyways). No probably not that cutting edge, but would still be pretty impressive non the less. Mr blobby is the hard thing there now with almost no one putting time into it apart from maybe James and Watson? Cool looking thing that future wads will warm up on the young for. Get some squeezing strength and have a go at that Franco that is cutting edge! plug an ascent for us skinnys
« Last Edit: October 29, 2020, 11:19:13 am by countyyoungin »

Franco

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#9228 Re: significant repeats
October 29, 2020, 11:19:02 am
Yeh, don't really know anything about that. Think it's meant to be a lot more shortlived in its difficulties. Doesn't really look very inspiring. If I was capable of climbing harder boulder problems I'd be more keen for the rail, something at christianbury or that unclimbed thing at queens. I think the county is at it's best when there's a strong feature to follow, somewhere proud. Not a grotty thing hidden in a hole.

countyyoungin

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#9229 Re: significant repeats
October 29, 2020, 11:21:47 am
Ahh I think it looks well good manoeuvring round those shapes. unclimbed thing at queens?

countyyoungin

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#9230 Re: significant repeats
October 29, 2020, 04:50:40 pm
forgetting the wet rock thing it does come across a bit demeaning of other peoples efforts when saying its easy and totally safe, when in reality its fairly tricky (not cutting edge but still tricky) and still 10m high. We've both fallen off the top and been fine but what happens if someone lands on one leg rather than two?

Franco

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#9231 Re: significant repeats
October 29, 2020, 04:58:04 pm
Yeh, you're probably right. I just meant for the likes of Pope or Bosi, I'd imagine it would be very easy.

P.s. it's not 10m high. The crux is about 5m.

Stu Littlefair

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#9232 Re: significant repeats
October 29, 2020, 04:59:55 pm
Whereís the top though Franco? Thatís usually how height is measured.

countyyoungin

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#9233 Re: significant repeats
October 29, 2020, 05:34:13 pm
Ok correcto mundo it's 8m apparently same theory applies IMO

Bradders

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#9234 Re: significant repeats
October 29, 2020, 08:28:51 pm
I think it's important to call out climbing on wet rock, full stop.

We've absolutely zero evidence to suggest that it was wet though, just an assumption that it might have been. None of us were there so we can't judge.

For what it's worth, if it was anything like it was in Yorkshire on Sunday then despite a fair amount of rain the day before it was pretty exceptional drying conditions; low humidity, strong breeze. Things that normally stay pretty damp were completely bone. So, I can easily imagine that it was perfectly dry. And I doubt they'd have done it if it had been wet.

cofe

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#9235 Re: significant repeats
October 29, 2020, 08:48:59 pm
It was a general comment, made because of the numbers of people who seem ok with climbing on wet or damp rock these days. Lots of the Peak was dry too; not all of it will have been.

Bradders

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#9236 Re: significant repeats
October 29, 2020, 08:53:48 pm
Sorry, directed more at Franco than you Cofe. Completely agree with calling people out for climbing on wet rock, but when you weren't there and there's no video I don't see how you can make that call.

Cornish

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#9237 Re: significant repeats
October 29, 2020, 09:16:12 pm
Hi All,

Yeah it was dry, happy days. I think if there’s one thing we don’t need Franco’s option on, it’s going ground up on The Young. Thanks anyway though!

webbo

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#9238 Re: significant repeats
October 29, 2020, 09:42:20 pm
 :clap2:

Nike Air

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#9239 Re: significant repeats
October 29, 2020, 10:04:55 pm
The Young looks amazing. Bet going ground up on that was fun.

Franco,  you passed comment on If six was Nine(then deleted it?).

What were you alluding too?


jwi

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#9240 Re: significant repeats
November 01, 2020, 08:57:12 am
Seb Bouin has done a rare repeat of Hugh, France's first 9a. More interesting he has tried Akira as well. It seems like the access for Akira has been sorted out, and it is now possible to climb.

The weather has been really bad in the region, and now the general quarantine has stopped all climbing in France. There might be some exceptions for professional athletes though, so there is some hope that Akira finally can get an ascent after all these years. From the comments on instagram, it didn't sound like there is much doubt that the route is climbable for Bouin.

gme

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#9241 Re: significant repeats
November 01, 2020, 09:51:59 am
He suggests he is intending to go back.
Would be great to put this one to bed as it really does stick out as an anomaly. If it is 9b itís very much ahead of its time.

Think it was dismissed due to it being a hybrid Boulder/route but this seems acceptable now ( although still a bit shit in my opinion).

Fiend

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#9242 Re: significant repeats
November 01, 2020, 10:16:56 am
Given how popular that Ali Choss Full Extension Sit Start Limited Bonus Obverse Combo is, I expect everyone to be queuing up to find kneebars on Akira.

mrjonathanr

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#9243 Re: significant repeats
November 01, 2020, 10:40:32 am
Knobbly knees only for that one. I would be interested to know Bouinís opinion if he does it.

gme

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#9244 Re: significant repeats
November 01, 2020, 12:29:03 pm
Akira seems to have been universally dismissed from sports climbing history but without anyone ever actually trying it. I think access was an issue but it sounds like it isnít now so I think it needs some attention before it is or isnít confirmed.

mrjonathanr

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#9245 Re: significant repeats
November 01, 2020, 12:54:36 pm
Akira seems to have been universally dismissed from sports climbing history but without anyone ever actually trying it.
This ^

duncan

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#9246 Re: significant repeats
November 01, 2020, 01:01:59 pm
If youíve not read it, this piece in Climbing makes the case for Rouhling and Akira.

Davo

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#9247 Re: significant repeats
November 01, 2020, 01:40:19 pm
Strange. I thought it was generally accepted that he did it and that it was more of a boulder Route like Pilgrimage or the thing in the cave in the Grampians. I thought also that the main issue was that he used a route grade for it and put a big number out there at a time when that grade didnít exist. Also according to that article he spent a very long time on it.

Aussiegav

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#9248 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2020, 05:00:30 pm
Pretty Significant-
Climbing 7c with no fingers.
 :clap2:


https://www.instagram.com/p/CHLEvTIjGGa/?igshid=svojwcp2c63z

gme

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#9249 Re: significant repeats
November 04, 2020, 08:11:36 pm
Strange. I thought it was generally accepted that he did it and that it was more of a boulder Route like Pilgrimage or the thing in the cave in the Grampians. I thought also that the main issue was that he used a route grade for it and put a big number out there at a time when that grade didnít exist. Also according to that article he spent a very long time on it.

That isnít the case unfortunately. It was dismissed in the same manner as Chilam Balam and a lot of his ascents had ? Next to them.
Classic case of routes given high grades but in obscure areas, repeating hard routes but no witnesses, top climbers not able to do his routes. Sounds similar.
I always thought it wasnít right though as no one ever actually went and tried them.

 

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