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significant repeats (Read 4178058 times)


sherlock

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#8876 Re: significant repeats
May 22, 2020, 11:29:29 am
The facial expression on her Instagram is friggin magic!

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#8877 Re: significant repeats
May 22, 2020, 11:34:57 am
The facial expression on her Instagram is friggin magic!

RE her Instagram, is it weird that I find this just as impressive as her ascent of AD?:

https://www.instagram.com/p/B91u7NjIs33/?igshid=8jpkkusliwwr

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#8878 Re: significant repeats
May 22, 2020, 02:39:22 pm
http://fanatic-climbing.com/premiere-feminine-daction-directe-9a-par-melissa-le-neve-first-female-ascent-of-action-directe-9a-by-melissa-le-neve/

9a, Action Directe, Melissa Le Nevé.  :great:

Awesome! Has anyone checked with the belayer? Hah, sorry. Is it too soon for jokes like that? This is rad. I'm so excited about how the gap between male and female top climbers is closing a lot faster than in other sports.

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#8879 Re: significant repeats
May 22, 2020, 04:27:32 pm
http://fanatic-climbing.com/premiere-feminine-daction-directe-9a-par-melissa-le-neve-first-female-ascent-of-action-directe-9a-by-melissa-le-neve/

9a, Action Directe, Melissa Le Nevé.  :great:

Awesome! Has anyone checked with the belayer? Hah, sorry. Is it too soon for jokes like that? This is rad. I'm so excited about how the gap between male and female top climbers is closing a lot faster than in other sports.

Other than the historic curiosity of the route is this significant? 

Did josune bereziartu not climb this grade almost 20 years ago?

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#8880 Re: significant repeats
May 22, 2020, 04:30:48 pm
First female ascent of iconic first 9a power route with massive dyno crux. It’s the route not the grade.

In the same way that any repeat of Hubble is still significant despite the raw numbers suggesting otherwise?

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#8881 Re: significant repeats
May 22, 2020, 04:48:15 pm
http://fanatic-climbing.com/premiere-feminine-daction-directe-9a-par-melissa-le-neve-first-female-ascent-of-action-directe-9a-by-melissa-le-neve/

9a, Action Directe, Melissa Le Nevé.  :great:

Awesome! Has anyone checked with the belayer? Hah, sorry. Is it too soon for jokes like that? This is rad. I'm so excited about how the gap between male and female top climbers is closing a lot faster than in other sports.

Other than the historic curiosity of the route is this significant? 

Did josune bereziartu not climb this grade almost 20 years ago?

Are you proposing we ought to not care about any ascents unless it's pushing grade boundaries?

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#8882 Re: significant repeats
May 22, 2020, 04:50:34 pm
http://fanatic-climbing.com/premiere-feminine-daction-directe-9a-par-melissa-le-neve-first-female-ascent-of-action-directe-9a-by-melissa-le-neve/

9a, Action Directe, Melissa Le Nevé.  :great:

Awesome! Has anyone checked with the belayer? Hah, sorry. Is it too soon for jokes like that? This is rad. I'm so excited about how the gap between male and female top climbers is closing a lot faster than in other sports.

Other than the historic curiosity of the route is this significant? 

Did josune bereziartu not climb this grade almost 20 years ago?

Are you proposing we ought not to care about any ascents unless it's pushing grade boundaries?

were you not just suggesting it was significant because it was?

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#8883 Re: significant repeats
May 22, 2020, 04:58:48 pm
Well, it wasn't me who posted it but I'm more just excited that female climbers are climbing harder things more regularly.

There's an argument that some routes seem to have a reputation as more "significant" than others, Action Directe appears to be one of them, there always seems to be a bit of a social media storm around ascents of it, so I suppose this is important in that respect.

I don't know if I could argue that it was an insignificant ascent.

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#8884 Re: significant repeats
May 22, 2020, 05:26:19 pm
Well, it wasn't me who posted it but I'm more just excited that female climbers are climbing harder things more regularly.

There's an argument that some routes seem to have a reputation as more "significant" than others, Action Directe appears to be one of them, there always seems to be a bit of a social media storm around ascents of it, so I suppose this is important in that respect.

I don't know if I could argue that it was an insignificant ascent.

Yeah obviously all relative,  just it is a thirty year old route at a grade that was climbed almost 20 years ago.  Frankenjura has seen female 9a ascents before but nice that some one of both genders has climbed the first one I suppose.

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#8885 Re: significant repeats
May 22, 2020, 05:33:20 pm
A lot of women I know who climb really well find grade talk pretty tedious. Probably one of the reasons they avoid forums. Routes are generally graded for blokes by blokes. If you’re 5’1 most routes are harder than if you’re 6’1. Dynos are harder if you’re short. My understanding with Action Direct is the dyno is the crux. Maybe Melissa thought that was piss and the rest hard, dunno? No doubt she’ll be interviewed about it.

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#8886 Re: significant repeats
May 22, 2020, 05:49:53 pm
A lot of women I know who climb really well find grade talk pretty tedious. Probably one of the reasons they avoid forums. Routes are generally graded for blokes by blokes. If you’re 5’1 most routes are harder than if you’re 6’1. Dynos are harder if you’re short. My understanding with Action Direct is the dyno is the crux. Maybe Melissa thought that was piss and the rest hard, dunno? No doubt she’ll be interviewed about it.

No sounds like it gave her a lot of trouble. Is a 7C+ jump. Defo more factors than grade constitute significance. I find this more impressive than a female doing La Rambla.

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#8887 Re: significant repeats
May 22, 2020, 11:20:38 pm
The facial expression on her Instagram is friggin magic!

RE her Instagram, is it weird that I find this just as impressive as her ascent of AD?:

https://www.instagram.com/p/B91u7NjIs33/?igshid=8jpkkusliwwr

A bit weird I think.  I'm miles off being able to perform either feat but fairly certain there are significantly fewer miles between me and doing that on a bm2k then there are between me and an ascent of AD.

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#8888 Re: significant repeats
May 23, 2020, 08:50:02 am
The facial expression on her Instagram is friggin magic!

RE her Instagram, is it weird that I find this just as impressive as her ascent of AD?:

https://www.instagram.com/p/B91u7NjIs33/?igshid=8jpkkusliwwr

A bit weird I think.  I'm miles off being able to perform either feat but fairly certain there are significantly fewer miles between me and doing that on a bm2k then there are between me and an ascent of AD.

Physical miles maybe, but perhaps AD is steady away.

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#8889 Re: significant repeats
May 23, 2020, 06:29:59 pm
Saw on insta that Alex Waterhouse has repeated Randall’s 40 roof crack 8B at Hartland. Whilst obviously not impressive in the grand scheme of things grade wise it’s an amazing feature and must be up there in grade terms for cracks.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CAiZUiyDSUt/?igshid=12sor9k2a10xo

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#8890 Re: significant repeats
May 23, 2020, 09:52:17 pm
nice that some one of both genders has climbed the first one I suppose.

That reads like you're suggesting she's a hermaphrodite?

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#8891 Re: significant repeats
May 23, 2020, 10:26:00 pm
Saw on insta that Alex Waterhouse has repeated Randall’s 40 roof crack 8B at Hartland. Whilst obviously not impressive in the grand scheme of things grade wise it’s an amazing feature and must be up there in grade terms for cracks.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CAiZUiyDSUt/?igshid=12sor9k2a10xo

In three sessions as well.

I remember looking at that cave last year and admiring how detailed the entire roof looked. Looked like there were holds everywhere, but they are probably all too shit to use.

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#8892 Re: significant repeats
May 24, 2020, 03:38:48 pm
I remember looking at that cave last year and admiring how detailed the entire roof looked. Looked like there were holds everywhere, but they are probably all too shit to use.

I was chatting with Tom about the cave a while ago and he reckoned there was an ace looking line through a scoop in the roof, he reckoned it'd be pretty meaty though (somewhere in the 9s as a sport grade was bandied about).

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#8893 Re: significant repeats
May 24, 2020, 04:26:20 pm
Cool stuff, what a top line to repeat. And less likely to make the Truro Local Bunion front page too.

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#8894 Re: significant repeats
May 25, 2020, 04:45:15 pm
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#8895 Re: significant repeats
May 25, 2020, 06:10:54 pm
This forum is mad, loads of equally or more significant shit out there imo.

Nobody blinked when Eliot did 'from dirt' a certified 8C boulder.

Anyway bits that I reckon are more significant just off the top of my head and recent.

Aidan did Shallow Groove at Trowbarrow a couple days ago, 2nd ascent after Ryan, probably 8B+ and in a session.

Varian did Bombadil which I've heard would definitely not be out of place at 8C and blogged about it before anyone say's it didn't get mentioned.

Ned put probably the hardest problem on grit up this week.

8B+ boulder is miles more significant than a 8c+ route in my eyes.

Oh a Micky P climbed 9a if routes are the only thing which flouts your boat.

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#8896 Re: significant repeats
May 25, 2020, 06:16:51 pm
This forum is mad, loads of equally or more significant shit out there imo.

Nobody is in charge of this topic, people just post up what they’ve seen, if it’s not on here, it’s not because people are ignoring it! If everyone who sees something they think is worthy posts it here at the time, it would be a lot more comprehensive.

I think the Scarpa blog series about Bombadil elsewhere (FA not sig repeat) but the Aidan Trowbarrow things sound interesting, will have a look at his feed.

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#8897 Re: significant repeats
May 25, 2020, 06:21:11 pm
This forum is mad, loads of equally or more significant shit out there imo.

Nobody is in charge of this topic, people just post up what they’ve seen, if it’s not on here, it’s not because people are ignoring it! If everyone who sees something they think is worthy posts it here at the time, it would be a lot more comprehensive.

I think the Scarpa blog series about Bombadil elsewhere (FA not sig repeat) but the Aidan Trowbarrow things sound interesting, will have a look at his feed.

You are of course right, I should have waited a couple hours until the fanfare had started.

Aidan broke a hold on SG too, making it harder (or certainly for his partner on the day who isn't that shit) before he did it.

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#8898 Re: significant repeats
May 25, 2020, 06:44:42 pm
This forum is mad, loads of equally or more significant shit out there imo.

Nobody blinked when Eliot did 'from dirt' a certified 8C boulder.

Anyway bits that I reckon are more significant just off the top of my head and recent.

Aidan did Shallow Groove at Trowbarrow a couple days ago, 2nd ascent after Ryan, probably 8B+ and in a session.

Varian did Bombadil which I've heard would definitely not be out of place at 8C and blogged about it before anyone say's it didn't get mentioned.

Ned put probably the hardest problem on grit up this week.

8B+ boulder is miles more significant than a 8c+ route in my eyes.

Oh a Micky P climbed 9a if routes are the only thing which flouts your boat.

Thanks for the listing... Any links / photo links are really useful to. Some people use this thread as a, ummm significant ascent news feed....

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#8899 Re: significant repeats
May 25, 2020, 07:09:25 pm
Oh a Micky P climbed 9a if routes are the only thing which flouts your boat.

Most of Mick P's stuff goes unrecorded and most of it news worthy. You on about the one in Flatanger last year?

 

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