[Coops_13]

Matty Hong repeats Papichulo 9a+
https://www.instagram.com/p/BDVWktglhri/

[CJDavies]

Just seen on instagram that Ned Feehally as repeated Private Idaho - how cool is that?  Great to see this done, and hope that he continues over to Life Aesthetic.  Such a hard line for me, although I doubt it took Ned as many sessions.

[Duma]

God I need to get to Craftnant. https://www.instagram.com/p/BDZDm29i-A1/

[Doylo]

Such a hard line for me, although I doubt it took Ned as many sessions.

Just one with a different foot sequence .

[CJDavies]

What did he do differently?  Heel/toe hook somewhere?  That would alter it significantly if so.  Be really interested to know.  Did he film it at all?  Be nice to see what he did differently.

[CJDavies]

News in from Doylo.  Not a repeat unfortunately.  From what I can gather Ned started crouched, not sat down.  I was pretty excited there for a bit. Never mind. 

[Doylo]

Ned says he saw it described as a crouch start in the guidebook script he's seen so that's what he did.

[Doylo]

You need two pads to reach the left starting hold from sitting

[masonwoods101]

I heard it was 6b from a crouch....

[Richie Crouch]

I heard it was 6b from a crouch....

I don't recall saying anything! (Prob soft 6b+  )

[Doylo]

Nah he said it felt 6c.

[Duma]

Know nothing about the problem,  but sitting is sitting, if you need an extra pad to reach the starting position ok, but crouching often changes things significantly. Think guidebook writers and first ascensionists should be very clear on this sort of thing, especially if pulling on/the first move is hard.

[masonwoods101]

Could have swore it was you who said it was 6b with the inverted donkey chicken wing beta?... Oh well

[CJDavies]

The usual guide book writer issue.  Yep, you need two pads, and with that your left arm is pretty straight.  It's a tough pull on, and you really have to chest in and yard to the crimp.   Really pleased that Ned gave this the time.  It's hard to get conditions and it is a small hike.   I've never tried it from a crouch, so have no idea if it makes much difference or not.  Strong stuff either way.

[Doylo]

In the footage the distance between Neds arse and the ground is massive and his arms pretty straight on the left hand. He would have needed a little stool to sit it.

[DAVETHOMAS90]

"He would have needed a little stool to sit it."

One off these?

 

..

Instagram pic looks lovely.

Starting Beta is always so crucial - even number of pads. Loads of things getting claimed with a crouch, just because someone else has. Good to hear someone being so specific.

[joble]

What happens if you can't reach the start holds off two pads?

[Doylo]

Use 3?

[joble]

Or just use one pad and crouch?

[a dense loner]

I like to call them stand starts

[ferret]

I'd say generally pulling on sitting with straight arms on n no. of pads is easier than pulling on crouching with straight arms on n-1 pads as you have to kick one foot on and stabilize.

[petejh]

What did he do differently?  Heel/toe hook somewhere?  That would alter it significantly if so.  Be really interested to know.  Did he film it at all?  Be nice to see what he did differently.

Having footage of the first ascents of potentially some of the hardest problems in n.Wales would be a nice thing to have. Then when beasts do them in a sesh you can easily show them what they did differently.

[CJDavies]

Wouldn't it just Pete!   It's the way ahead these days now we all have cameras.  I won't bother asking what your getting at, although I can hazard a guess.  Again - nice to see this has gotten some action and that's that.

[moose]

What happens if you can't reach the start holds off two pads?

In his top secret MoonLab, hidden in a hollowed volcano, Ben is perfecting the "self-elevating arsepad". Imagined by the mind of Moon for this very situation, it inflates for the sit-start, and rapidly deflates once the climber is upright: preventing encumbrance and providing a small explosive boost to their upward progress.

[Duma]

I'd say generally pulling on sitting with straight arms on n no. of pads is easier than pulling on crouching with straight arms on n-1 pads as you have to kick one foot on and stabilize.

Disagree. Unless you're compressing with yr feet I'd always say crouching is generally easier. Think the number of people who do sits as crouching tells its own story