[a dense loner]

I thought terre de sienne was a non problem while terramer is a ridiculous piece of climbing, in a hard good way. Impressive stuff! Strong fucker 

if terramer was the ace tds would be like doing half the joker.

[Johnny Brown]

Which half?

[a dense loner]

Left hand on top sloper jump right hand to top jug, or the campus way where people take it from jumping off the block.

[Nibile]

 

[ferret]

Terre de Sienne while not as natural or impressive as Terremer is still the most logical stand start for this piece of rock and hard climbing in itself. Its not like that nonsense at Rubicon, where you can do 4 8as with the same 3 moves or whatever.
Agree with you about the Joker though, those people that jump off the boulder and go for the top before they have to weight the handholds, how do they sleep at night. Similarly the swing on from the boulder and use the outswing to campus for the top seems equally invalid.

[dave]

Agree with you about the Joker though, those people that jump off the boulder and go for the top before they have to weight the handholds, how do they sleep at night.

Seriously, do folk actually do this? Thought this was just an urban myth.

Similarly the swing on from the boulder and use the outswing to campus for the top seems equally invalid.

Only person I've ever seen on it who pulled on and waited long enough (we're talking a few seconds of deadhang) to kill any swing before going was Megos, who despite global uberwad status, 9a onsighter and weighing best part of fuck all notably didn't do it.

[Johnny Brown]

The swing is the best bit. I didn't realise folk were jumping for the top off the boulder though. Really?

[ferret]

I'm not talking about how your student does it here:



He obviously pulls on and establishes himself on the holds. I'm talking about swinging from the boulder 2 footed and campusing right hand to the top on the outswing

[ferret]

Agree with you about the Joker though, those people that jump off the boulder and go for the top before they have to weight the handholds, how do they sleep at night.

Seriously, do folk actually do this? Thought this was just an urban myth.

Similarly the swing on from the boulder and use the outswing to campus for the top seems equally invalid.

Only person I've ever seen on it who pulled on and waited long enough (we're talking a few seconds of deadhang) to kill any swing before going was Megos, who despite global uberwad status, 9a onsighter and weighing best part of fuck all notably didn't do it.

This guy manages just fine

[dave]

Is this a windup? He's clearly using the swing there.

As I say, a few second deadhanging would be needed to actually kill any swing for the ultrapendant technique-free campus tick.

[Doylo]

I imagine the campus wouldn't feel as satisfying as foot on anyways. Should be an eliminate !

[ferret]

I think we are aproaching the  post limit, so I'll shut up

[AlistairB]

Is this a windup? He's clearly using the swing there.

As I say, a few second deadhanging would be needed to actually kill any swing for the ultrapendant technique-free campus tick.

At least he hangs the holds rather than just jumping off the boulder:

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=1638777799715454&id=1588352928091275&fs=5

I'm glad someone else brought this up because I've had my doubts about the "campus method" for a while. I think there probably should be a "no foot no tick" rule because otherwise there's just too many shades of grey. And it's pretty log and arbitrary compared to the original sequence.

(Mods - might be worth splitting into a separate thread?)

[dave]

To be fair I don't think he's actually jumping off the rock there, no contraction or extension of the back leg. The difference is he's still got weight on the floor when upward motion starts. Not convinced a foot-on convention would help, today's fearless youth could probably do a similar thing with the foot-on RH first suicide method launching straight off the rock.

Either way it's going to be fuckall help to you on the Ace.

[Johnny Brown]

WTF? He doesn't jump off the boulder either. Simple solution is to downgrade the campus method.

[remus]

Or just downgrade it? Assuming the campus method is so much easier.

[bendavison]

Or get rid of the joker altogether. No ace no tick. I bet a new thread starts now!


Sent from the place where beasts are made, using will power

[36chambers]

I recently stumbled across this

https://www.instagram.com/p/8f7attzeck/

[tomtom]

I recently stumbled across this

https://www.instagram.com/p/8f7attzeck/

Superb. I'm on it

If you make it 7C+ I bet it'll get less traffic...

[tim palmer]

Dan Turner did monk life

[Drew]

The boy he be on fire

[GCW]

Who cares?  We're talking about Joker ethics.

[36chambers]

Dan Turner did monk life

He's had a pretty good year

[Footwork]

Effort Dan!

[tomtom]

The pic in FB looked like a video still - so hopefully...