[T_B]

Impressive. I don't care if you climb 9a+, that runout is massive. The thought of slipping off fiddling the gear in doesn't bare thinking about. And Lakes next. I wonder if it will be the obvious Dove Crag mopping up, or whether he'll get up to Scafell and repeat one of Birkett's mega routes?

[jwi]

Nina Caprez and Marc Le Menestrel repeat Hannibals Alptraum in Rätikon

... there’s lots of really hard, run-out obligatory climbing...It’s crazy, you never have a good hold, it’s always a really nerve-wracking game of balance, of unperceptible sensations, of tiny body movements that make all the difference...Marc and I agree on the following for the five pitches: 7b+, 8a, 8a, 8a, 7b+. But as I mentioned, don’t be fooled by the grades on paper, as soon as you start up Hannibals Alptraum you enter a completely different dimension

There are an incredible number of hard scary routes in the Alpes, but Hannibal certainly seems to have a special aura.

Very good interview as well. Interesting to read her opinions on the questionable tactics used for many repeats of these routes (including an oblique self criticism of their tactics on Orbayu. Well done.)

[T_B]

What a fantastic interview and story - she's amazing (and Marc)!

Check out the grades on the topo compared to what they thought they were - talk about sandbag!

[Duncan campbell]

Wow - sounds amazing (and sphincter-winkingly terrifying!)

 

[Duma]

Nina 

[petejh]

What a fantastic interview and story - she's amazing (and Marc)!

Check out the grades on the topo compared to what they thought they were - talk about sandbag!

Hanibals on the right.
Caprez/leMenestrel thought 7b+ 8a, 8a, 8a, 7b+!

[duncan]

I'm also a fan!

Good effort to establish this 1986, even if they didn't do the whole route in one go. First ascentionist Martin Scheel is probably best-known for 'creating' Punks in the Gym. He spent three seasons travelling from Europe failing to climb it. Along with every able-bodied individual who ever stayed at The Pines around the time (1984) I belayed him on some of his epic series of attempts. So close...but no cigar. He was trying it "yo-yo" style and not really working the moves in the modern sense. Had he been a little more professional in his approach he might have been the first to climb 8b+ instead of Gullich.

[Wood FT]

Nina Caprez and Marc Le Menestrel repeat Hannibals Alptraum in Rätikon

After two really relaxing days at home we returned to Hannibal on Thursday. This time conditions were great and Marc was super motivated! We still had to remove all the gear from the belays and take out the quickdraws, and this was reason enough for Marc to lead it all. And, would you believe it, he climbed all 5 pitches without a single fall! What a technical master!

Le Ledge.

That was a good interview, well worth reading. Refreshing change of pace from the norm, I don't think we'll be seeing a over-caffeinated sugary drink company cap on her tête anytime soon.

[T_B]

I don't think we'll be seeing a over-caffeinated sugary drink company cap on her tête anytime soon.

I wouldn't be so sure... http://ninacaprez.ch/wp-content/themes/ninacaprez/images/GR128_ITV_NINA.pdf

[DaveC]

First ascentionist Martin Scheel is probably best-known for 'creating' Punks in the Gym. He spent three seasons travelling from Europe failing to climb it. Along with every able-bodied individual who ever stayed at The Pines around the time (1984) I belayed him on some of his epic series of attempts. So close...but no cigar. He was trying it "yo-yo" style and not really working the moves in the modern sense. Had he been a little more professional in his approach he might have been the first to climb 8b+ instead of Gullich.

That's interesting, we must have crossed paths back then as I was regularly staying at Kim Carrigan's place in Natimuk when Martin Scheel and his g/f (Christine?) were in residence there. Have some interesting old photos of his early efforts on Punks lurking around here somewhere, should dig them out!

[AJM]

Hanibals on the right.
Caprez/leMenestrel thought 7b+ 8a, 8a, 8a, 7b+!

It looks amazing, but that upgrade might push it further into the realms.of fantasy ticking....

[petejh]

Well it is bolted - unlike 'real' trad you could take a long clipstick.. 

[jwi]

On the peninsula, Martin Scheel is mostly known for Vuelo a Ciegas in Montserrat, the first 8b in Spain  (1985 I think? )

[Wood FT]

Looks like Ellis Butler-Barker has repeated 'Dark Matter Stand' 8B+, in Magic Wood

6/7 days of effort! Had to wake up early for redpoints the rest midday and get back out in the evening; definitely the hardest of worked to get a problem done and it all came together just before I had to leave and get me flight home! Felt a lot like climbing a route so suits me pretty well; will be back for the full line!

Not a problem I know but looks frickin' steep and thin from this picture of Dai on it

[andy_e]

Crikey! Get that list updated.

[Reprobate_Rob]

Crikey! Get that list wiki updated.

Just been killing a slow afternoon at work by updating the sport and bouldering entries -
http://ukbouldering.com/wiki/index.php/UK_Cream_of_the_Crop

Ellis now bumped to 8B+

[iwasmexican]

Looks like Ellis Butler-Barker has repeated 'Dark Matter Stand' 8B+, in Magic Wood

6/7 days of effort! Had to wake up early for redpoints the rest midday and get back out in the evening; definitely the hardest of worked to get a problem done and it all came together just before I had to leave and get me flight home! Felt a lot like climbing a route so suits me pretty well; will be back for the full line!

Not a problem I know but looks frickin' steep and thin from this picture of Dai on it

does anyone know where this actually starts? could stand start anywhere in that cave... assuming its from the big hold two moves into each hand of darkness?

[rodma]

I'm not being funny or malicious or bitter (I'll save that until I feel past it) , but there's a lot of doubt flying about.

On 8a.spray Ellis said he did fatman them repeated it for the camera. Where's the footage.

The only reason I don't film everything anymore is because Mrs rodma and I are generally taking turns on different problems whilst passing the baby. The youth ain't got no such excuse and besides who wouldn't want to be able to watch themselves back crushing (other than Sam davenhall and only a handful of others ).

Seriously, footage or I call bullshit

[Boredboy]

That's a harsh and pointless post dude.

[frasermcilwraith]

That's a harsh and pointless post dude.

No it isn't. It's completely reasonable, especially when fatman has supposedly been unclimbable for years.

[Boredboy]

Whatever you think. It's a shit thing to do calling someone out publicly on ukb.

[dave]

On the contrary, if he's got footage and witnesses for stuff then isn't this the perfect place to clear that up and the fact be in the public domain?

P.S. I have no idea who ellis butler-baker-candlestickmaker is.

[rodma]

Whatever you think. It's a shit thing to do calling someone out publicly on ukb.

If I did it on ukc I'd get moderated.

It's not a shit thing to do. If fatman has been repeated it's a really fucking big deal.

There are others (kicking around the same threads just now) that I similarly doubt, partially, but not exclusively because they previously posted videos of every lower grade problems that they did, but when they break into the higher numbers there's suddenly nothing. It's more than just suspicious, it's like a Simpson parody, which is what I initially assumed it was until all those ascents remained on 8a.nu

[Boredboy]

I just think there's better ways of going about it that publicly asking for 'evidence' or suggesting someone is bullshitting on ukb. It strikes me as having potentially very negative consequences for someone.

Dave, saying ukb is the perfect place for this is like saying the Daily Mail is the perfect place for Mo Farah to defend doping suspicions. Or I'm reading it all wrong and missed the altruistic nature of the post and ukb generally.

[Fiend]

On the contrary, if he's got footage and witnesses for stuff then isn't this the perfect place to clear that up and the fact be in the public domain?

P.S. I have no idea who ellis butler-baker-candlestickmaker is.

Definitely got a champagne jacuzzi and koy carp in his 22" rims.