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significant repeats (Read 4403420 times)

rodma

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#5950 Re: significant repeats
July 10, 2015, 08:22:48 pm
Maybe he's doing a scotch Simpson for a laugh Dan :D

Seriously though, that's totally awesome.

a dense loner

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#5951 Re: significant repeats
July 10, 2015, 08:41:09 pm
Maybe he's not trying problems from the correct start and when being asked why says the first move feels impossible that way! Is this the same guy that did Fatman without any holds in a session?  :ohmy:
But if he is then it's a good trip indeed!

andy popp

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#5952 Re: significant repeats
July 10, 2015, 08:42:46 pm
Has End of the Affair had a second ascent yet?

 8)

mr chaz

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#5953 Re: significant repeats
July 11, 2015, 01:04:57 am
I see on fb Jonny Argue has repeated Fat Lip at the Tor.

T_B

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#5954 Re: significant repeats
July 11, 2015, 07:18:48 am
#dadpsyche  :weakbench:

mr chaz

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#5955 Re: significant repeats
July 12, 2015, 12:09:14 pm
And here's the vid


SA Chris

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#5956 Re: significant repeats
July 12, 2015, 08:00:48 pm
Looks like your typical out of shape overweight dad :)

Good work.

Baron

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#5957 Re: significant repeats
July 12, 2015, 08:41:04 pm
Foley's going well

duncan

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#5958 Re: significant repeats
July 12, 2015, 10:22:25 pm
Steve McLure has done Choronzon today, also thought it was 8b+.
I thought that one might hold out for a while, it looks really hard.

Duncan campbell

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#5959 Re: significant repeats
July 12, 2015, 11:15:47 pm
McClure what a hero! Anyone know if he's been on muy  caliente? Surely that's a prime flash for him? Though maybe the ground sweep potential to the gear in the middle of the wall may put him off?

Luke Owens

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#5960 Re: significant repeats
July 13, 2015, 01:02:26 am
What a legend!

Wood FT

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#5961 Re: significant repeats
July 13, 2015, 08:40:41 am
That's brilliant


Duma

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cowboyhat

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#5964 Re: significant repeats
July 13, 2015, 11:51:26 am
caffs excellent blog on Choronzon for background

Thanks for that, once again my memory was clutching at straws, with google no help I was wondering why Steve M doing 8b+ is considered significant.

iwasmexican

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#5965 Re: significant repeats
July 14, 2015, 09:22:46 am
king of limbs just got flashed by andy gullsten...

duncan

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#5966 Re: significant repeats
July 14, 2015, 12:07:11 pm
Steve McLure has done Choronzon ...

In his own words.

I hope he gets the chance to have a go at Muy Caliente as well, it'll be interesting to hear how he gets on.

PipeSmoke

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#5967 Re: significant repeats
July 14, 2015, 12:15:38 pm
Wow E10 in the wet, pretty bad ass.

That flash of king of limbs as well, is insane. Especially on a crux that looks so hard to get right

rodma

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#5968 Re: significant repeats
July 14, 2015, 12:56:17 pm
Maybe he's not trying problems from the correct start and when being asked why says the first move feels impossible that way! Is this the same guy that did Fatman without any holds in a session?  :ohmy:
But if he is then it's a good trip indeed!

not being funny, but did any video footage ever emerge of this so we could be impressed with what was actually climbed? is there something on faceache?

If he really did do it using the broken holds then that really is a cracking send. a certain yank reckoned it was still climbable but utter dogshit. when i looked at it i thopught it looked nails, certainly harder than gourmandise

chris_j_s

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#5969 Re: significant repeats
July 14, 2015, 01:01:54 pm
Looks like Robbie Phillips has made the 2nd ascent of Dave Mac's Project Fear.

slackline

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#5970 Re: significant repeats
July 16, 2015, 11:21:01 am
Nina Caprez and Marc Le Menestrel repeat Hannibals Alptraum in Rätikon

Quote
... there’s lots of really hard, run-out obligatory climbing...It’s crazy, you never have a good hold, it’s always a really nerve-wracking game of balance, of unperceptible sensations, of tiny body movements that make all the difference...Marc and I agree on the following for the five pitches: 7b+, 8a, 8a, 8a, 7b+. But as I mentioned, don’t be fooled by the grades on paper, as soon as you start up Hannibals Alptraum you enter a completely different dimension

« Last Edit: July 16, 2015, 11:31:41 am by slackline »

Nibile

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#5971 Re: significant repeats
July 16, 2015, 11:24:36 am
Nina Caprez and who?

Wood FT

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#5972 Re: significant repeats
July 16, 2015, 11:29:43 am
Looks like Robbie Phillips has made the 2nd ascent of Dave Mac's Project Fear.

He's getting pretty handy at this stuff, hope he's looking at Orbayu in the near future


petejh

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#5973 Re: significant repeats
July 16, 2015, 11:40:46 am
Nina Caprez and Marc Le Menestrel repeat Hannibals Alptraum in Rätikon
Quote from: Nina Caprez
After two really relaxing days at home we returned to Hannibal on Thursday. This time conditions were great and Marc was super motivated! We still had to remove all the gear from the belays and take out the quickdraws, and this was reason enough for Marc to lead it all. And, would you believe it, he climbed all 5 pitches without a single fall! What a technical master!

Le Ledge.

Doylo

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#5974 Re: significant repeats
July 16, 2015, 12:44:36 pm
Mcclures headpointed Muy Caliente now. Reckoned an E grade easier than Choronzon I.e. E9.

 

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