UKBouldering.com

significant repeats (Read 4994528 times)

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13695
  • Karma: +694/-68
  • Whut
#4725 Re: significant repeats
June 24, 2014, 01:45:41 pm
Hockstack and several others were filming and taking photos - we met the busy and extensive entourage and a more peaceful if tired/focused Caff at Reecastle (The Rack Direct, Finger Flake Finish, Water Torture, Bold Warrior, The Gibbet, The Gauntlet, Guillotine - before moving on to Goat's Crag "I'll get loads done up there, it's only an easy 20 minute walk, more like 15"....is it fuck, fit bastard!). Didn't realise he'd been all over Scafell and Langdale before Borrowdale, that is a ridiculous amount of terrain to cover, it makes doing 100 grit extremes look like doing 100 grit boulder problems.

casa

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 120
  • Karma: +3/-1
#4726 Re: significant repeats
June 24, 2014, 02:18:17 pm
ah, now i see. All that faffing around in the US was really just training, for this, the real deal. Bendigedig

 :bow:

cowboyhat

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1505
  • Karma: +128/-5
#4727 Re: significant repeats
June 24, 2014, 02:30:53 pm
James McHaffie has soloed 100 extremes in the Lakes in 19 hours. Incredible!

Immense

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8789
  • Karma: +651/-18
  • insect overlord #1
#4728 Re: significant repeats
June 24, 2014, 02:36:52 pm
James McHaffie has soloed 100 extremes in the Lakes in 19 hours. Incredible!

Immense

But what's he done in boxing gloves and roller skates ?

T_B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3110
  • Karma: +151/-5
#4729 Re: significant repeats
June 24, 2014, 03:50:24 pm
it makes doing 100 grit extremes look like doing 100 grit boulder problems.

It really does. I don't know if people can really comprehend how f*cking hardcore this is, unless you've done a lot of extremes in the Lakes! We are not talking about El Cap granite here. Sure, it must be a staggering amount of terrain to cover, but whilst those routes on Reecastle are clean and have nice, positive incut holds, many of the routes he must have done would be technical face climbing on less-than-perfect rock, with at the very least, a bit of dust here and there. Can't wait to see the list of routes.

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#4730 Re: significant repeats
June 24, 2014, 04:04:12 pm
 :o Madman. I can just imagine how tricky some of those Lakeland E3s are!

cheque

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3469
  • Karma: +530/-2
    • Cheque Pictures
#4731 Re: significant repeats
June 24, 2014, 04:14:02 pm
Incredible stuff.

:o Madman. I can just imagine how dirty some of those Lakeland E3s are!

Jaspersharpe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1B punter
  • Posts: 12344
  • Karma: +600/-20
  • Allez Oleeeve!
#4732 Re: significant repeats
June 24, 2014, 04:49:14 pm
An unbelievable effort.

Sloper

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • fat and weak but with good footwork.
  • Posts: 5199
  • Karma: +130/-78
#4733 Re: significant repeats
June 24, 2014, 04:59:33 pm
James McHaffie has soloed 100 extremes in the Lakes in 19 hours. Incredible!

Absolutely outrageous,  I bet there aren't too many takers to repeat the feat.

Stubbs

  • Guest
#4734 Re: significant repeats
June 24, 2014, 05:02:06 pm
Astounding!  I wonder if there was any pre cleaning or he just took them as they came? 

slackline

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 18863
  • Karma: +633/-26
    • Sheffield Boulder
#4735 Re: significant repeats
June 24, 2014, 06:04:16 pm
Melissa Le Neve repeated Wall Street!

Does the use of a heel hook on the worlds first 8c provoke the same amount of dismay as the use of a knee bar on (non-ascents of)  Hubble has though?



« Last Edit: June 24, 2014, 06:31:15 pm by slackline »

nai

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4009
  • Karma: +206/-1
  • In my dreams
#4736 Re: significant repeats
June 24, 2014, 06:24:14 pm

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13695
  • Karma: +694/-68
  • Whut
#4737 Re: significant repeats
June 24, 2014, 06:45:29 pm
Astounding!  I wonder if there was any pre cleaning or he just took them as they came?
I don't think so. Borrowdale at least has been in pretty good nick recently, really dry. It's the approaches and amount of different crags that is as impressive as the climbing!

petejh

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5884
  • Karma: +639/-36
#4738 Re: significant repeats
June 24, 2014, 08:37:24 pm
Melissa Le Neve repeated Wall Street!

Does the use of a heel hook on the worlds first 8c provoke the same amount of dismay as the use of a knee bar on (non-ascents of)  Hubble has though?



[attention deficit] what/where/when/who? Caff, solo, lakes, g-narl [/attention deficit]

Sloper

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • fat and weak but with good footwork.
  • Posts: 5199
  • Karma: +130/-78
#4739 Re: significant repeats
June 24, 2014, 08:46:07 pm
Red braces, greed is good? long mountain routes, weak at the knees feeling x 100 etc <one eyed dismissive attitude to bolt clipping>

Stubbs

  • Guest
#4740 Re: significant repeats
June 25, 2014, 01:30:27 pm
Dan Bozza Smith has mad ethe first repeat of Sharma's Trifecta Middle at Flock Hill, always thought this problem looked amazing, nice one Bozza! http://climber.co.nz/news/trifecta-middle-repeated


slackline

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 18863
  • Karma: +633/-26
    • Sheffield Boulder
#4741 Re: significant repeats
June 25, 2014, 01:37:39 pm
Astounding!  I wonder if there was any pre cleaning or he just took them as they came?
I don't think so. Borrowdale at least has been in pretty good nick recently, really dry. It's the approaches and amount of different crags that is as impressive as the climbing!

From the DMM interview nai has linked to...

Quote from: James McHaffie
What preparation did you do beforehand?

I did a big recce on the Wednesday before and had been studying route lists for weeks but it kept changing all the time. On the day I kept it flexible to suit how I was feeling as I didn’t know how tired I’d be. About 80% of it I reckon I had previous experience of soloing. I did three routes including an E3 on Neckband Crag I hadn’t done before. Before going to Yosemite I’d planned to try the 100 Lakes solos when I got back and I’d also been doing quite a bit of soloing in Wales as training.

Did you take many breaks?

Not really. There was a lot of ground to cover between crags. At Shepherds around the seventy route mark I felt fatigued and had 10 minutes rest and an egg roll at the café. Fortunately at Castle Rock I got a second wind. At some of the crags I had an abseil rope in place to make it quicker to get back down.

Muenchener

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2716
  • Karma: +119/-0
#4742 Re: significant repeats
June 25, 2014, 01:40:40 pm
Dan Bozza Smith has made the first repeat of Sharma's Trifecta Middle at Flock Hill

Quote
The problem was originally thought to be V14, although consensus has seen it settle at V13

Wait. Nobody had repeated the problem and yet there was a consensus about the grade.  :shrug:

How does that work then?

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29594
  • Karma: +643/-12
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#4743 Re: significant repeats
June 25, 2014, 01:54:19 pm
Quote
Pete flew off, landed awkwardly and spectacularly snapped his tibia and fibia in half, signalling the end of his attempts.

This comes with a NSFW warning btw, especially the photo right at the very end. Grim!

Good effort from Dan Smith, top looks proper hard.

slackline

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 18863
  • Karma: +633/-26
    • Sheffield Boulder
#4744 Re: significant repeats
June 25, 2014, 01:56:12 pm
Wait. Nobody had repeated the problem and yet there was a consensus about the grade.  :shrug:

How does that work then?

Armchair grades.  :popcorn:

Stubbs

  • Guest
#4745 Re: significant repeats
June 25, 2014, 01:57:23 pm
Yeah I decided not to watch the video! As for the grade, NZ seems to be keen to keep the grades at the stiff end of the scale!

danm

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 845
  • Karma: +112/-1
#4746 Re: significant repeats
June 25, 2014, 05:43:24 pm
I wondered what Bozza was up to in NZ, now we know. Streng!

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9996
  • Karma: +579/-10
#4747 Re: significant repeats
June 25, 2014, 11:16:59 pm
Quote

... had 10 minutes rest and an egg roll at the café.

Quote

got a second wind.

More tea vicar?

remus

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3142
  • Karma: +168/-1
#4748 Re: significant repeats
June 26, 2014, 12:39:58 pm
Dan Bozza Smith has made the first repeat of Sharma's Trifecta Middle at Flock Hill

Quote
The problem was originally thought to be V14, although consensus has seen it settle at V13

Wait. Nobody had repeated the problem and yet there was a consensus about the grade.  :shrug:

How does that work then?

Got to remember that Sharma doesn't usually grade things, so V14 was probably a guess in the first place.

a dense loner

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7165
  • Karma: +388/-28
#4749 Re: significant repeats
June 26, 2014, 01:49:45 pm
No Remus the points were made about people having a very strange belief that you don't know the grade of something until you've climbed it.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal