[powerhousegore]

I asked Matt what he thought about Chimera in terms of E grade. He stated that it is harder and scarier than anything else that he has done (his previous hardest trad ascent being My Halo E7), but he felt he couldn't say how much harder (whether it was hard E7, E8, or beyond) as he didn't have anything to compare it to. As his spotter I felt I deserved an E8 tick for just watching - it was terrifying! We also had no idea what it would be as a sport grade?

[tomtom]

I usually think southern sandstone looks shit but this looks boss.

Some of it is shit, and some if it is boss.. I found the top out the most nerve racking part - knowing what slimey sandy scrittly affairs these exits can be... *shudder*

[T_B]

Chimera looks brilliant, like a higher version of those things at Ina's Rock in the Churnet i.e. with a flat landing. It would get E9 in old money surely if it's Font 7c+ or F8b? Isn't Equilibrium supposed to be Font 7c+? Anyway, English grades are pointless for this sort of thing. All you need to know is it's Font 7c++sandy topout waaay above the deck. Respect!

[Stubbs]

Anyway, English grades are pointless for this sort of thing. All you need to know is it's Font 7c++sandy topout waaay above the deck. Respect!

Well put Tom, respect Matt!

[SA Chris]

If only he'd done it quarterback style wearing an american football shirt. #Touchdown

Then he would have had to have done it under the cover of darkness.

[Baron]

Wow, trouser filler.
Seam to the right on?

[Jaspersharpe]

fuck ... that close up looked scary!

Jesus. Although he looks really strong on the crux moves you can still see how sketchy it is after that. Amazing effort and absolutely terrifying. I agree that the spotter should claim E8.

Wow, trouser filler.
Seam to the right on?

Pretty sure it has no holds IIRC.

[Jaspersharpe]

Surely Second Generation must be on for the solo too? Chimera is way harder and sketchier although it did have a much nicer landing (I don't know the state of these nowadays).

[T_B]

Nearly 30 years since Revelations was soloed. I'm surprised no-one has repeated that feat, especially as it would be worth a few bob to a sponsor 

[SA Chris]

As his spotter I felt I deserved an E8 tick for just watching

Did you have 999 ready on speeeddial?

[tomtom]

"I warmed up, set up the top rope and did it first go of the day. I knew the highball was on! So we sorted out the pads, pulled the rope and I just went for it. It was a strange feeling, almost felt like my body took control and my head was just a passenger, that was until I reached the greasy slot and the rest in the groove when my brain had time to catch up with itself and I had the sudden realisation of what I was actually doing! Im glad I managed to hold it together somehow and not take a fall on the highball! Its definately the hardest climb that I have done physically and mentally"

Nice write up on the other channel... http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68229

[Will Hunt]

A strong ascent indeed, however, I think his clothing could count as a point of aid. It surely diminishes the difficulty of the climbing when you're channeling such a strong baggy shorts over elfin tights look.
 

[Luke Owens]

A strong ascent indeed, however, I think his clothing could count as a point of aid. It surely diminishes the difficulty of the climbing when you're channeling such a strong baggy shorts over elfin tights look.
 

Strong look, strong ascent!

[tomtom]

Shorts over thermals is a signature Kiwi look

[SA Chris]

Is he Kiwi? If he was surely his name would be Mutt Cusuns?

[tomtom]

and would say ears instead of yes..

[JackAus]

Daniel Woods has done The Wheel Of Life.

[Nibile]

Shorts over long tights is one of my favourite looks, but I seriously doubt it would push me even at the base of Chimera.

[jwi]

Anna Stöhr has repeated The Power of One and The Vice, both 8B, in Rocklands.

http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=41122

[jwi]

Sasha DiGiulian has repeated Bellavista on Tre Cima

http://www.kairn.com/fr/escalade/89733/sasha-digiulian-realise-la-premiere-feminine-de-bellavista-8c-500-m.html

[Wood FT]

Sasha DiGiulian has repeated Bellavista on Tre Cima

http://www.kairn.com/fr/escalade/89733/sasha-digiulian-realise-la-premiere-feminine-de-bellavista-8c-500-m.html

as it says in the article it's nice to see her on something a bit a different, sounds like a memorable ascent with the storm as well and the 8c climbing

[Muenchener]

and the runout 8c climbing on pegs in the wet

Climbing Mag write-up
Sashawad's blog.

Climbing in The Dolomites is a balance between balletic technique and maintaining as many delicate points on the wall as possible in case the stone you are holding with your hand or stepping on peels off. The more points, the more likely you are to stay on the wall when your hold does not.

Very good summary of the essence of Dolomites climbing. Possibly also the only person in history to have written about such things in pink?

[Stubbs]

Amazing, I love that she called Huber from the top to ask the way down. In the dark. And the rain...

[Fultonius]

I think she learnt the lesson most of us learn on one of our early (and significantly less difficult) dolomites routes. Get off before the thunderstorms and the dark!

Good effort by the lass.

[Paul B]

Very good summary of the essence of Dolomites climbing. Possibly also the only person in history to have written about such things in pink?

Very good