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significant repeats (Read 4658491 times)

tomtom

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#2975 Re: significant repeats
March 07, 2012, 10:42:59 pm
get rid of cobwebs

Jesus Christ, JB!

What kind of heartless nature-hater are you?

How else do people get rid of cobwebs? Feather dusters?

you know full well that using any sort of aid to reach from the floor makes for an invalid cleaning session, let alone using a power tool

Does an invalid cleaning session require a mobility scooter? ;)


tomtom

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Baron

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#2977 Re: significant repeats
March 08, 2012, 07:22:28 am
Touchet

Ethan

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#2978 Re: significant repeats
March 10, 2012, 07:20:04 pm
Mind Control for Sasha today, the girls are loving that route at the minute!

leeroy

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#2979 Re: significant repeats
March 10, 2012, 08:58:57 pm
Mind Control for Sasha today, the girls and the boys are loving that route at the minute!
usual rubbish on 8a about downgrading it aswell  :chair:

good efforts all round.

Nigel

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#2980 Re: significant repeats
March 13, 2012, 10:08:31 am
Paul Smitton smashed in Duel Font 8a last week. Not a cutting edge number in the grand scheme but slabs don't really go much above 8a/+, and it probably hasn't had many British ascents (can only think of Malc, Ty, Will Perrin, and Adam Mulholland). I think its impressive anyway, especially since it only took about 6 goes! Video here:


Nibile

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#2981 Re: significant repeats
March 13, 2012, 10:14:12 am
fantastic. he's a hero of mine.

fried

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#2982 Re: significant repeats
March 13, 2012, 10:46:38 am
Made it look like a piece of piss as well.

andy popp

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#2983 Re: significant repeats
March 13, 2012, 10:55:02 am
I've always wanted to know what the holds are like on this (shit, obviously, but just how shit?). Maybe I'll see it one day.

Krank

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#2984 Re: significant repeats
March 13, 2012, 11:16:43 am
i didnt think they looked "that" bad for an 8A slab, then i tried to pull on. There shit.

Probes

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#2985 Re: significant repeats
March 13, 2012, 11:20:32 am
I've always wanted to know what the holds are like on this (shit, obviously, but just how shit?). Maybe I'll see it one day.

Very smooth, nice.

..Well pick your worst slab nightmare add a few ripples and tilt it a lot.

Not done it, but yrs ago got very high on it on a few goes in, then spent another 3 or 4 days trying to get back to that point. Right bitch it is.

Duma

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#2986 Re: significant repeats
March 13, 2012, 11:50:48 am
I've always wanted to know what the holds are like on this (shit, obviously, but just how shit?). Maybe I'll see it one day.
Much less bad than you imagine, then you (try to) pull on...
But compared to something like Golden Feet at Cuvier it looks about 6A!

Sadly I think this problem may be the nail in the coffin of my lifetime goal of the entire Cuisiniere Black circuit.  :'(

Johnny Brown

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#2987 Re: significant repeats
March 13, 2012, 07:07:28 pm
Legend. Been to look at Duel about four times, never actually had a go yet.

SA Chris

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#2988 Re: significant repeats
March 14, 2012, 10:14:22 am
Would have thought it was right up your leafy avenue JB.

Fiend

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#2989 Re: significant repeats
March 14, 2012, 11:08:09 am
Good effort that man. Surprised about the other British ascents, hadn't heard of any of those.

JB saving it for the flash obviously...

miso soup

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#2990 Re: significant repeats
March 14, 2012, 10:56:43 pm
Mind Control for Sasha today, the girls and the boys are loving that route at the minute!
usual rubbish on 8a about downgrading it aswell  :chair:


This did all sound a bit dubious but I wasn't paying much attention.  Can anyone who has been paying more attention tell me if any of the female ascentionists have suggested a downgrade?  And which male ascentionists have suggested it, and did they suggest it when they climbed it or only after loads of women did it?  Obviously I have no concept of how hard Mind Control is but it does look a lot like 'anything girls can climb can't be that hard' syndrome.

Sasha is apparently having a crack at La Rambla, so brace for that to get downgraded to 9a when she crushes it in a week or so.

leeroy

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#2991 Re: significant repeats
March 14, 2012, 11:32:30 pm
Mind Control for Sasha today, the girls and the boys are loving that route at the minute!
usual rubbish on 8a about downgrading it aswell  :chair:


This did all sound a bit dubious but I wasn't paying much attention.  Can anyone who has been paying more attention tell me if any of the female ascentionists have suggested a downgrade?


i think gabri moroni said "everyone knows its 8c anyway" or something of that kind. one of the girls who repeated apparently said she wouldnt be suprised if it got downgraded. no concrete suggestions of it going down anyway. if ondra didnt downgrade it, its 8c+. full stop.  ;)



Nibile

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#2992 Re: significant repeats
March 15, 2012, 06:14:58 am
Gabriele is quite well known for very stiff grading. And very strong fingers.
What Leeroy said. Full stop.

slackline

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#2993 Re: significant repeats
March 15, 2012, 08:38:29 am

Sasha is apparently having a crack at La Rambla, so brace for that to get downgraded to 9a when she crushes it in a week or so.

Picture posted by ypy of her working it on the DFBWGC.

Adam Lincoln

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#2994 Re: significant repeats
March 15, 2012, 06:48:08 pm
Keenus joins the 9a club by sending his project. Escaltamasters.

Nibile

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#2995 Re: significant repeats
March 15, 2012, 07:03:15 pm
... and they happily lived ever after!!!
 :clap2:

leeroy

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#2996 Re: significant repeats
March 15, 2012, 07:21:42 pm
Keenus joins the 9a club by sending his project. Escaltamasters.

Superb :2thumbsup:

cofe

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#2997 Re: significant repeats
March 15, 2012, 07:46:13 pm
Great news, nice one James.

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#2998 Re: significant repeats
March 16, 2012, 09:43:47 am
Keenus joins the 9a club by sending his project. Escaltamasters.

How big is that british 9a list now?

Neil Carson – Big Bang
John Gaskins – Violent New Breed
Steve McClure – Overshadow, Mutation, Northern Lights etc
Malcolm Smith – Hunger
Jame McHaffie – Big Bang
Tom Bolger – Fabela pa la Enmienda, Ciudad de Dios etc
James Pearson - Esclatamasters

Honorable mention to the Moon for Hubble 8c+(9a)????
Has Dunning ticked any?
Also Paul Smitton for Pedigree chum,  Staminaband-PUTP link, unless he’s done Mutation under the radar. Pasquill?
I’m sure there are plenty of other british beasts who have silently ticked away a 9 here or there.

SA Chris

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#2999 Re: significant repeats
March 16, 2012, 09:53:02 am
Dave Macleod (assuming A Muerte is still 9a)

Richard Simpson

(only joking, don't shoot me)

 

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