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significant repeats (Read 4400427 times)

Doylo

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#2700 Re: significant repeats
December 03, 2011, 11:11:26 am
Pretty sure Moon wasn't on a top rope and he did nearly flash it - fell off the easier (bottom?) bit then got it 2nd go. Very impressive for 1991(?) if it is font 8a.
You're not wrong, he was pretty handy wasn't he

Jim

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#2701 Re: significant repeats
December 03, 2011, 04:49:45 pm

Teaboy

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#2702 Re: significant repeats
December 03, 2011, 08:23:23 pm
I remember Power of Climbing having pictures of someone on Screaming Dream but I can't remember if it was Malcolm Taylor or Tony Ryan? Did either if them do it? Didn't realise Sean Myles had done it. Regardless, why hasn't this route had more attention?

cheque

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#2703 Re: significant repeats
December 03, 2011, 09:09:18 pm
It's Malcolm Taylor. He appears to be doing the last moves on lead but the weird grid thing in the back only has Moon, Leach and Myles down as having done it. It also reckons 8b as a route grade.

I had to check all this just now, by the way. I had no idea how many repeats it had had until I saw this thread.

Fiend

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#2704 Re: significant repeats
December 03, 2011, 09:16:06 pm
Nice one. I remember that photo and reading about the route, hardcore stuff. How hard can it be to layback a 6m crack?? ;)

fatboySlimfast

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#2705 Re: significant repeats
December 04, 2011, 08:29:08 am
to my knowldege dont think malcolm taylor actually did it

yorkshireman

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#2706 Re: significant repeats
December 05, 2011, 01:33:48 am
according to facialbook nalle hukkataival has just done esperanza-assuming thats the V14 in hueco.

Ethan

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#2707 Re: significant repeats
December 06, 2011, 10:30:06 pm
Ondra has repeated Christian Core's 8C Gioia, giving it 8C+.

leeroy

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#2708 Re: significant repeats
December 06, 2011, 10:42:48 pm
 :jaw: first 8c+ in the world then, maybe. psyched for christian, seemed like a genuinely nice character in the original goia vid.

Duma

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#2709 Re: significant repeats
December 06, 2011, 10:46:22 pm
Core on it:


leeroy

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#2710 Re: significant repeats
December 06, 2011, 10:51:16 pm

slackline

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#2711 Re: significant repeats
December 07, 2011, 10:12:04 am
http://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/play.php?i=605

another longer version here.

If you go to iClimb where that video is from then you can download it in HD for free.

(Ondras repeat also noted in the Ondrawad thread).

jwi

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#2712 Re: significant repeats
December 08, 2011, 09:59:18 am
Nalle Hukkataival flashed Crown of Aragon, becoming the fourth(?) 5-8th to flash an 8b
« Last Edit: December 08, 2011, 10:07:40 am by jwi »

Tommy G

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#2713 Re: significant repeats
December 08, 2011, 11:54:21 am
Here is a vid from DPM of him on the former mentioned V14

Strong boy

http://www.dpmclimbing.com/climbing-videos/watch/nalle-hukkatiaval-esperanza-v14

 :)

Johnny Brown

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#2714 Re: significant repeats
December 08, 2011, 02:48:53 pm
According to Crouch on the karma stats, Will Atkinson has done Merveille. Great line, very impressive. First british ascent?

Paul B

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#2715 Re: significant repeats
December 08, 2011, 02:54:30 pm
According to Crouch on the karma stats, Will Atkinson has done Merveille. Great line, very impressive. First british ascent?

Neds done it too looking at the Wildcountry FB page...

SA Chris

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#2716 Re: significant repeats
December 08, 2011, 02:57:39 pm
According to Crouch on the karma stats, Will Atkinson has done Merveille. Great line, very impressive.

In a single session!

Good going willackers!

Ethan

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#2717 Re: significant repeats
December 08, 2011, 03:01:59 pm
8c+ for Alizée Dufraisse! In french but... http://www.grimper.com/News/6810-8c-pour-alizee-dufraisse.html

Adam Lincoln

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#2718 Re: significant repeats
December 09, 2011, 08:30:27 pm
Nalle Hukkataival flashed Crown of Aragon, becoming the fourth(?) 5-8th to flash an 8b


Fiend

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#2719 Re: significant repeats
December 10, 2011, 09:49:48 am
People will love the american commentary on that :D

I love the foot sketching. Good stuff.

dontfollowme

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#2720 Re: significant repeats
December 10, 2011, 09:59:53 am
People will love the american commentary on that :D

I love the foot sketching. Good stuff.

I think this set the bar for america commentary:

Tight!

Clart

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#2721 Re: significant repeats
December 10, 2011, 02:04:42 pm
People will love the american commentary on that :D

I love the foot sketching. Good stuff.

I think this set the bar for america commentary:

Tight!

Yeh, that was painful, do you suppose these people continue with the running commentary when on the job?

On a more serious note, do you suppose the over egged support is to try and direct some of the climber's success onto themselves, to over compensate for their secret desire for the climber to fail or genuine, if massively irritating, enthusiasm?

Oldmanmatt

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#2722 Re: significant repeats
December 10, 2011, 06:09:29 pm
People will love the american commentary on that :D

I love the foot sketching. Good stuff.

I think this set the bar for america commentary:

Tight!

Yeh, that was painful, do you suppose these people continue with the running commentary when on the job?

On a more serious note, do you suppose the over egged support is to try and direct some of the climber's success onto themselves, to over compensate for their secret desire for the climber to fail or genuine, if massively irritating, enthusiasm?

Nah, they're just American.

(Though possibly with previous, doing voice-overs in the Pr0n industry).

Doylo

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#2723 Re: significant repeats
December 10, 2011, 06:45:02 pm
Nalle Hukkataival flashed Crown of Aragon, becoming the fourth(?) 5-8th to flash an 8b



I hope he hadn't done Wheaties before!

Tommy G

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#2724 Re: significant repeats
December 14, 2011, 02:05:40 pm
Interesting point Doylo!

Would it not be consider a flash of the "Crown of" if he had?
He has still technically completed the line in question first go though.

It could be the same argument for link up's in general.
If someone had done "Rumble in the Jungle" at the Cornice previous but then later on did "Monstrosity" bottom to top on their first attempt, would be considered an flash of the route?

 :-\

 

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