[slackline]

[Andy B]

I don't think it's splitting hairs at all. For me if you've already done the stander then you can't flash the sitter.

[boulderingbacon]

  its like practicing moves and then saying you did it on your first proper attempt of the whole problem.

[r-man]

But if you've worked Staminaband, you can still flash Powerband...

 

[Dr T]

I don't think it's splitting hairs at all. For me if you've already done the stander then you can't flash the sitter.

too....

[Moo]

agreed

[Percy B]

Looking at the vid, and the way Nalle sketches through the 'easy' section of Better Eat your Wheaties after crushing the starting moves of Crown of Aragon, I reckon its a flash. After all, Wheaties isn't a very technical problem to read (even by American standards) - its just totally grim on minging crimps. I'd let him have it - after all, if he'd already done Wheaties there's no way he'd ever want to do the sitter, as he'd have to do the pile of shit twice!

[Doylo]

I don't think it's splitting hairs at all. For me if you've already done the stander then you can't flash the sitter.

Exactly. Wheaties may only be 7b+ but it would be droppable from the start on the flash.  I personally don't think you can flash something that you've climbed on before. We don't know though so lets give him the benefit of the doubt.

[Doylo]

He didn't half piss those first hard moves!

[T_B]

I don't think it's splitting hairs at all. For me if you've already done the stander then you can't flash the sitter.

We don't know though so lets give him the benefit of the doubt.

Exactly, why don't people assume he's not done Wheaties cos he saved Crown for the flash? Seems more likely to me.

[slackline]

You can't flash the whole of a sitting problem if you've done a standing variation, all you can do is "flash" the moves that lead into the standing (and/or extensions if its such a situation).  To then try and claim a flash of the whole problem would be retarded.

Its that patently obvious I don't see why it needs discussing which is why I thought the discussion was about to start splitting hairs (although retrospectively thats a wholly inappropriate phrase for the situation, perhaps  ).

[chillax]

Not sure how many people know about this, but Rock and Ice have put years worth of mags up online for free. The most recent one has a very good piece about the second ascent of Wings of Steel on El Cap. Not exactly typical fodder for this thread, but its certainly a significant repeat....

If you have a spare lifetime handy, the whole saga is documented over on supertopo. Fascinating stuff I thought.

[fatboySlimfast]

Significant repeats thread or ukc bitching thread.........

[Oldmanmatt]

It's getting close to Xmas. Too much damn shopping. Not allowed to climb coz the In laws are here/coming. Too wet. Not enough climbing. Carol services. Bah humbug! It's no wonder everyone's a bit tetchy! Release some tension guys, a little banter about the definition of a flash does no harm...
A little, anyway.

[Moo]

I don't think any of this is bitching about nalle, it's just a discussion about the ethics of a flash style ascent not necessarily about nalles flash.

[Andy B]

That's certainly the case for my part.

[Doylo]

It's not bitching is it. people do it on routes and boulders and its not legit

[Nibile]

I can't imagine Nalle doing a 7b+, unless it's a very aestethic line, which, from what I read here, that problem is not.
but yes, it's Christmas and I'm bitter.

[fatboySlimfast]

I was reffering to the relevance of the chatter about wether he had/had not done part of a problem before that he was said to of flashed when no one actually knew what he had done because they were not there.... 90% of all stuff reported in Significant repeats comes through on news wires/sponsorship promotions etc etc but do we question all of them? im not arguing it shouldnt be discussed but in its location it seemed to be descending into UKc territory with hearsay and round robin arguments that go no where

[Johnny Brown]

I don't have any problem with folk claiming a flash of a problem or route which is an extension of another they've already done. Seems the logical way to do things to me. Sure you might look a tit if you made a big deal of flashing the sitter to West Side having spent a year working the stand, but for cases like this it really doesn't matter to me at all - damn impressive and well worthy of the term flash.

[Doylo]

Different interpretations. I always thought flash was basically onsight but with beta i.e. you haven't been on it before. Fatboy's right though we don't know about this case and probably should have made clear that the discussion was really aimed on a more general basis. We have no reason to doubt Nalle's ethical purity so was a bit unfair how it came across     

[Johnny Brown]

My point was, even if he had done Wheaties before I've no beef with him claiming a flash of Aragorn. Though lets be honest, chances are he has made no such claims but others have made them for him.

[Doylo]

I always had you down as a ethical beacon Adam ,tut tut. 

[jwi]

Hukkataival claims the flash http://27crags.com/climbers/hukknal/ascents  if someone has other information it would be good to hear it...

[Fiend]

I always had you down as a ethical beacon Adam ,tut tut. 

I'm with the shining beacon of purity on this one. Spirit of the law rather than the letter of the law.