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significant repeats (Read 4637598 times)

cofe

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#2575 Re: significant repeats
October 06, 2011, 02:00:45 pm
Isn't she the woman who actually nearly flashed it last year? I seem to recall reading that in R&I.

chillax

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#2576 Re: significant repeats
October 06, 2011, 02:13:18 pm
Isn't she the woman who actually nearly flashed it last year? I seem to recall reading that in R&I.

I think she nearly flashed Freerider, an easier free variation on Salathe (.12d I think) that avoids the 5.13 headwall pitches.

Jaspersharpe

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#2577 Re: significant repeats
October 06, 2011, 02:31:05 pm
I thought Salathe was supposed to be 8b+ (14.a) or have I just made that up/got confused with the nose?


Yes.

Ethan

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#2578 Re: significant repeats
October 06, 2011, 09:21:14 pm
I have heard that 'Wheel of Life' at Mt Stapylton had a fifth ascent last weekend from Ben Cossey. There are whispers of a downgrade but I haven't seen any further details on the www as yet and my source here only had sketchy information.

He seems to have opted for 8B+

duncan

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#2579 Re: significant repeats
October 07, 2011, 09:05:58 am
What's the accepted free ascent style for the headwall these days? isn't there some distinction between doing it with belays and making it one long pitch?

I don't know what the accepted style is but it has been done as a single ~65m pitch from the hands-off just over the roof to long ledge.  If I remember correctly, Skinner and Piana did it in 3 pitches, and some people use the standard (aid-route) hanging belay at 2/3 height. 

Ascents of the original line, ie not the Monster Offwidth, are also very unusual.  It has yet to have a Brit. ascent in any kind.   

Turboman

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#2580 Re: significant repeats
October 07, 2011, 09:15:22 am
Jules Littlefair ticked Predator (8b) at Malham last week! Go Girl!!!
Just shows what dedication, hard training and the lure of a McDonald Happy Meal can bring.

Husband Stu's ascent of Bat Route (8c) on the same day was however entirely insignificant.

cofe

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#2581 Re: significant repeats
October 07, 2011, 10:01:43 am
Top effort (by Jules!). Stu is rubbish...

PATRuL

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#2582 Re: significant repeats
October 07, 2011, 03:24:45 pm
...just the chips for Stu then.

Nemo

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#2583 Re: significant repeats
October 08, 2011, 08:02:30 pm

slackline

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Ethan

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#2585 Re: significant repeats
October 13, 2011, 10:20:56 pm
Yuji Hirayama repeated Green Spit, second go apparently!  :strongbench:

shark

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#2586 Re: significant repeats
October 13, 2011, 11:12:46 pm
Jules Littlefair ticked Predator (8b) at Malham last week! Go Girl!!!
Just shows what dedication, hard training and the lure of a McDonald Happy Meal can bring.


Jules has blogged about doing Predator:
http://blog.rab.uk.com/category/athletes/jules-littlefair/

Word is she is training so hard she passed out doing a pull-up session   :o

highrepute

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#2587 Re: significant repeats
October 13, 2011, 11:47:06 pm
Jules Littlefair ticked Predator (8b) at Malham last week! Go Girl!!!
Just shows what dedication, hard training and the lure of a McDonald Happy Meal can bring.


Jules has blogged about doing Predator:
http://blog.rab.uk.com/category/athletes/jules-littlefair/

Word is she is training so hard she passed out doing a pull-up session   :o

Inspirational  :2thumbsup:

Stubbs

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#2588 Re: significant repeats
October 14, 2011, 08:13:47 am
8c+ (The Crew, Rifle) on-sight for Ramon Julien Puigblanque  :bow:

Report on Rock and Ice here http://rockandice.com/news/1662-ramon-julian-onsights-the-crew-514c-and-everything-else-in-rifle

And some shots on his blog here: appears to all be without kneepads too! 5 foot 2, what a beast.

Here's the vid from the world cup showing the big jump he failed on


cheque

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#2589 Re: significant repeats
October 14, 2011, 09:34:08 am
5 foot 2, what a beast.

 :o Bad news for fans of the 'you need very specific genetics to climb at the highest level' argument.

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#2590 Re: significant repeats
October 14, 2011, 09:36:48 am
5 foot 2, what a beast.

 :o Bad news for fans of the 'you need very specific genetics to climb at the highest level' argument.

5 foot 2, but with arms to his knees....

inch for inch, the strongest climber on the planet? All the proof is in the extras of Progression when he schools Ondra, Mzarek and co....

grimer

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#2591 Re: significant repeats
October 14, 2011, 10:05:09 am
I've seen him climb at the Arco Rockmaster a few times and it is truly amazine, just in a different league from all the others. It never looks like he under any pressure and can shake out anywhere.

SA Chris

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#2592 Re: significant repeats
October 14, 2011, 10:33:30 am
5 foot 2, what a beast.

 :o Bad news for fans of the 'you need very specific genetics to climb at the highest level' argument.

aka shortarses who use reach as an excuse.

Andy B

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#2593 Re: significant repeats
October 14, 2011, 12:13:37 pm
5 foot 2, what a beast.

 :o Bad news for fans of the 'you need very specific genetics to climb at the highest level' argument.

aka shortarses who use reach as an excuse.

5 foot 2, but with arms to his knees....

 :P

Doylo

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#2594 Re: significant repeats
October 14, 2011, 06:31:20 pm
3rd person to  onsight 8c+, ace!

remus

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#2595 Re: significant repeats
October 16, 2011, 07:30:03 am
Sasha Digiulian has done Pure imagination (9a) at Red River Gorge. Beast.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=64553

Grubes

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#2596 Re: significant repeats
October 16, 2011, 07:44:42 am
Awesome :O

Ethan

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#2597 Re: significant repeats
October 16, 2011, 11:49:14 pm
Pete Whit has flashed Belly Full of Bad Berries!

Doylo

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#2598 Re: significant repeats
October 17, 2011, 10:32:49 pm
Sasha Digiulian has done Pure imagination (9a) at Red River Gorge. Beast.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=64553

The vid on the other channel makes it look well meaty. How do people climb for so long?
2nd hottest 9a climber after Sharma!

ducko

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#2599 Re: significant repeats
October 17, 2011, 10:37:34 pm
9a! That girl had skills and she's a babe, bravo

 

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