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significant repeats (Read 4294252 times)

Duma

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#11650 Re: significant repeats
February 24, 2024, 11:59:43 am
Dunno if this still counts but Shauna's done Wild Wild West 8B in La Pedriza. From Talo Martins IG story.

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#11651 Re: significant repeats
February 24, 2024, 12:23:29 pm
 :sorry:
Dunno if this still counts but Shauna's done Wild Wild West 8B in La Pedriza. From Talo Martins IG story.

According to Remus only 5 British women have climbed 8B so feels like it still counts to me, impressive stuff.

Could also fit here https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,24457.150.html


remus

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#11652 Re: significant repeats
February 24, 2024, 05:14:13 pm
Dunno if this still counts but Shauna's done Wild Wild West 8B in La Pedriza. From Talo Martins IG story.

Definitely counts! It may only seem non-newsworthy because it's Shauna and she's done more boulders 8B and above than all the other British women combined!

Wellsy

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#11653 Re: significant repeats
February 24, 2024, 05:15:40 pm
She's pretty blody cool imo. Love to see her tearing it up on rock

remus

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#11654 Re: significant repeats
February 26, 2024, 11:21:19 am
Jorge Diaz-Rullo has repeated Sharma's Sleeping Lion in Siurana, giving it it's third ascent after Sharma and Megos.

https://www.instagram.com/p/C3zrnM0NzPn/?utm_source=ig_embed

jwi

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#11655 Re: significant repeats
February 26, 2024, 11:24:14 am
amazing. It has been really humid and greasy lately, at least in BCN.

remus

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#11656 Re: significant repeats
February 26, 2024, 06:06:02 pm
Dunno if this still counts but Shauna's done Wild Wild West 8B in La Pedriza. From Talo Martins IG story.

And Pin y Pon 8B since then! https://www.instagram.com/reel/C30a94hsucx/

Fiend

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#11657 Re: significant repeats
February 26, 2024, 09:51:34 pm
Beastette! Must have skin of steel. Talo needs to get her on Pedriza F8b too now...


P.S. Shaunawad thread??

lukeyboy

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#11658 Re: significant repeats
February 27, 2024, 07:02:44 am
Beastette! Must have skin of steel. Talo needs to get her on Pedriza F8b too now...


P.S. Shaunawad thread??

It's Shaunawad MBE to us riff raff

duncan

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#11659 Re: significant repeats
February 27, 2024, 11:46:05 am
amazing. It has been really humid and greasy lately, at least in BCN.

It’s been quite good up in Siurana. Perhaps a bit warm for some but with a stiff breeze that day. La Rambla got another ascent the same morning.

jwi

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#11660 Re: significant repeats
February 27, 2024, 12:25:27 pm
amazing. It has been really humid and greasy lately, at least in BCN.

It’s been quite good up in Siurana. Perhaps a bit warm for some but with a stiff breeze that day. La Rambla got another ascent the same morning.

We might drag our visiting inlaws to Siurana on Saturday then. I turned on the de-humidifier in the appartment the other day as I couldn't hold any of  the holds on the board...

remus

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#11661 Re: significant repeats
February 29, 2024, 07:06:53 am
Molly TS did Pilgrim 8A+ at Parisellas a couple of days ago. Safe to say there's some more in the tank https://www.instagram.com/reel/C35-ACCty0A/

T_B

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#11662 Re: significant repeats
February 29, 2024, 07:55:44 am
I’d be genuinely surprised if she doesn’t climb Font 8c in the next few years. She looks like she could lap Pilgrim on-the-minute.

T_B

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#11663 Re: significant repeats
February 29, 2024, 08:19:44 am
The Bridgewood brothers have repeated Mark Katz’ The Young Pretender at Hen Cloud. Not sure when the FA was but it must be getting on for 20 years ago? Pete’s UKC entry says it took them 7 sessions.

Same grade as End of the Affair for those who enjoy debating British trad grades  :lol:

monkey boy

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#11664 Re: significant repeats
February 29, 2024, 08:58:51 am
The Bridgewood brothers have repeated Mark Katz’ The Young Pretender at Hen Cloud. Not sure when the FA was but it must be getting on for 20 years ago? Pete’s UKC entry says it took them 7 sessions.

Same grade as End of the Affair for those who enjoy debating British trad grades  :lol:


Awesome!

remus

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#11665 Re: significant repeats
February 29, 2024, 09:02:18 am
Been waiting a while for a second ascent that. Anyone know when Katz's made the FA? Must be pre-2008 as there's some chat about it not having had any repeats from then in the UKB archives (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=8029.25)

Tom de Gay

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#11666 Re: significant repeats
February 29, 2024, 09:06:44 am
The Bridgewood brothers have repeated Mark Katz’ The Young Pretender at Hen Cloud. Not sure when the FA was but it must be getting on for 20 years ago? Pete’s UKC entry says it took them 7 sessions.

Same grade as End of the Affair for those who enjoy debating British trad grades  :lol:

FA in 1998. Think I was trying it with Iain Farrar when Dan fell off Parallel Lines and snapped his arm, that was '99 or '00 maybe. Flippin' tough moves, sort of thing you might expect on a Welford 7B+.

Edit: oh, that's just what it says in the other thread.
« Last Edit: February 29, 2024, 09:13:18 am by Tom de Gay »

Fiend

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#11667 Re: significant repeats
February 29, 2024, 10:21:30 am
The Bridgewood brothers have repeated Mark Katz’ The Young Pretender at Hen Cloud. Not sure when the FA was but it must be getting on for 20 years ago? Pete’s UKC entry says it took them 7 sessions.

Same grade as End of the Affair for those who enjoy debating British trad grades  :lol:
Great stuff, look forward to seeing a link / visuals.

Makes perfect sense. Short hard E8 with E for technical difficult / short paddable groundfall (Angel's Share / The Promise) vs longer easier but sketchy E8 a long way above gear with crucial belayer logistics and groundfall not really allowed.

andy moles

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#11668 Re: significant repeats
February 29, 2024, 10:39:42 am
The comment on UKC makes it sound quite unpleasant!

Tom de Gay

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#11669 Re: significant repeats
February 29, 2024, 10:48:01 am
Suspect the FA would have been padded very lightly, if at all.

The first time I saw a pad was in mid ’98, watching a Scottish wad failing to onsight Ulysses above a couple of them. He hit the mats badly and broke his ankle. It might have been the following winter that I was at the plantation on a beautiful icy evening and saw Mark Katz at the base of Ulysses, looking a a bit dazed. He’d tried to onsight it, slipped at the crux and missed his single pad, piling into the frozen-hard ground. He was completely fine, other than a friction burn to his left hand where he’d slid down the arete like a fireman’s pole. He made a quip about Katz always landing on their feet, got in his 2CV and headed back to Wales.

remus

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#11670 Re: significant repeats
February 29, 2024, 12:20:45 pm
I’d be genuinely surprised if she doesn’t climb Font 8c in the next few years. She looks like she could lap Pilgrim on-the-minute.

Might be in luck...

Quote from: Molly
After the summer my focus is definitely switching to rock for the foreseeable.

www.8a.nu/news/molly-thompson-smith-gets-an-8a%2B-and-8a-done-in-north-wales

SA Chris

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#11671 Re: significant repeats
February 29, 2024, 12:30:38 pm
Quote
We wanted somewhere sunny and picturesque
... but ended up at Parisellas

yetix

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#11672 Re: significant repeats
February 29, 2024, 01:01:21 pm
Was good to see, she fell on the match on pilgrim on the 2nd or 3rd go, then cruised it the next go. 10 mins or so later worked out the moved on ferrino again and realised the end was easier for her on sans pocket and then dispatched it casually as well.

andy moles

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#11673 Re: significant repeats
February 29, 2024, 02:09:12 pm
Quote
We wanted somewhere sunny and picturesque
... but ended up at Parisellas

 :lol:

#athletesnotaesthetes

Bradders

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#11674 Re: significant repeats
February 29, 2024, 07:47:40 pm
Dave Fitzgerald has done Lucid Dreaming.

 

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