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significant repeats (Read 4662424 times)

edshakey

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#11600 Re: significant repeats
January 07, 2024, 12:08:28 pm
Using number of sessions to determine grade again  :worms:

On the topic of number of sessions and grading it seems a crime that mutation only got 9a by Steve Mac back in the day. AFAIK it's still Will Bosi's longest project by a significant margin (40+ sessions), not to mention it's only had 1 repeat despite there being plenty of wads these days climbing at the 9a level. I wouldn't be shocked if it was acrtually the world's forst 9b.

I don't disagree that it still sounds a slight sandbag, but Will has addressed this in interviews. Something about how skin and conditions dependent it is. A perfect example of why number of sessions is maybe not the whole measure of a grade?

Duncan campbell

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#11601 Re: significant repeats
January 07, 2024, 02:07:49 pm

My (obviously daftly ignorant) inputs were:
6C, medium_rest, 8A, no_rest, 7A, no_rest, 8A, no_rest, 7B+
That gives 9b

Wow! That’s quite the beak down! I thought I had heard it was 8c+ into 8c+ with no rest which Darth grader does come out at 9a+/b but yeah seems a sandbag doesn’t it. Crazy how quick SteMac did it BITD

remus

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#11602 Re: significant repeats
January 07, 2024, 07:30:24 pm
https://youtu.be/vy0k_zh9_ec?si=QXhlTeIg8Mx9H-7o looks like tomoas sit has already seen a repeat?

Good spot! Pretty sure that's Yuta Imaizumi, same chap who repeated Gakido around the same time as Tomoa.

yetix

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#11603 Re: significant repeats
January 07, 2024, 08:32:48 pm
I wasn't sure whjo it was, but seems like they've confirmed the grade?

jwi

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#11604 Re: significant repeats
January 07, 2024, 09:38:23 pm
It says 5-dan-plus in the title of the video, so 8C

remus

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#11605 Re: significant repeats
January 10, 2024, 06:42:40 am
Along with the rest of the world, Noah Wheeler has repeated Sleepwalker 8C+. It's now had 14 ascents by my count. He's put together a nice little vid explaining the different sequences:

« Last Edit: January 10, 2024, 07:09:10 am by remus »

Fiend

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#11606 Re: significant repeats
January 10, 2024, 09:02:19 am
Along with the rest of the world, Noah Wheeler has repeated Sleepwalker 8C+. It's now had 14 ascents by my count. He's put together a nice little vid explaining the different sequences:


More interesting than the thumbnail implies! Tl,DR: Climb with big, reachy moves is easier for people with big reaches  :lol:

Dingdong

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#11607 Re: significant repeats
January 10, 2024, 09:30:10 am
Along with the rest of the world, Noah Wheeler has repeated Sleepwalker 8C+. It's now had 14 ascents by my count. He's put together a nice little vid explaining the different sequences:


More interesting than the thumbnail implies! Tl,DR: Climb with big, reachy moves is easier for people with big reaches  :lol:

When I watched it those were my thoughts exactly, not really surprising it’s easier if you can reach past two hard moves  :lol: Daniel also suffering from small man development syndrome - so hard to grade for average morphology when you’re 5’6/7

jwi

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#11608 Re: significant repeats
January 10, 2024, 10:47:42 am
A friend who is 2m tall and pretty good at jumping developed quite a bit of bouldering back in the days. He did not bother to guess how hard his problems were for others, and graded them all on his subjective scale (on this scale he ticked Hale Bopp at Cuisinière at 7A/B). He put up quite a few dynos graded in the low-to-mid sevens that has never been repeated for twenty years. The "easiest" a 7a+ that seems completely impossible. When I wrote the guidebook I decided not to randomly upgrade his jumps but just to go with his suggestions. A difficult decision, as I did not particlarly wanted to publish a book with useless info.

remus

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#11609 Re: significant repeats
January 11, 2024, 09:35:40 pm
Any of you well connected people know who it was who did REM 8C+ in Cresciano a few days ago?

https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/switzerland/cresciano/sectors/unknown-sector-11218/routes/rem/

Coops_13

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#11610 Re: significant repeats
January 11, 2024, 10:23:38 pm
Any of you well connected people know who it was who did REM 8C+ in Cresciano a few days ago?

https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/switzerland/cresciano/sectors/unknown-sector-11218/routes/rem/
Sam Weir, US climber


remus

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#11611 Re: significant repeats
January 12, 2024, 07:27:11 am
Top knowledge, thanks! Went for a wander through his youtube back catalog, what a beast.

crimpinainteasy

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#11612 Re: significant repeats
January 12, 2024, 02:49:11 pm
Using number of sessions to determine grade again  :worms:

On the topic of number of sessions and grading it seems a crime that mutation only got 9a by Steve Mac back in the day. AFAIK it's still Will Bosi's longest project by a significant margin (40+ sessions), not to mention it's only had 1 repeat despite there being plenty of wads these days climbing at the 9a level. I wouldn't be shocked if it was acrtually the world's forst 9b.



I don't disagree that it still sounds a slight sandbag, but Will has addressed this in interviews. Something about how skin and conditions dependent it is. A perfect example of why number of sessions is maybe not the whole measure of a grade?

Forgot to reply to this. Yeah I guess skin and conditions would definitely explain some of it. It would be cool to see some other megawads like Megos, Ondra, Ghisolfi or Bouin put time into into and see how hard they think it is.

A friend who is 2m tall and pretty good at jumping developed quite a bit of bouldering back in the days. He did not bother to guess how hard his problems were for others, and graded them all on his subjective scale (on this scale he ticked Hale Bopp at Cuisinière at 7A/B). He put up quite a few dynos graded in the low-to-mid sevens that has never been repeated for twenty years. The "easiest" a 7a+ that seems completely impossible. When I wrote the guidebook I decided not to randomly upgrade his jumps but just to go with his suggestions. A difficult decision, as I did not particlarly wanted to publish a book with useless info.

I can understand his reasoning to some extent. A problem feels how it feels to me and someone else's subjective experience of difficulty is quite irrelevant to how much effort I put into the problem. Being sausage fingers crew I feel like I frequently struggle more on ultra crimpy 6C-7As than some slopy compression 7B+ boulders.

remus

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#11613 Re: significant repeats
January 14, 2024, 08:46:50 am
Lucy Mitchell has climbed Darwin Dans La Cave 8c at Lourmarin in France.

remus

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#11614 Re: significant repeats
January 15, 2024, 07:03:24 pm
James Pearson had a productive day in Bovey Woods over the weekend with ascents of Devon Sent 7C+, Infamous 8B and Rocket Science 8B+.

https://www.instagram.com/p/C2INJeANqS4/?img_index=1

Duma

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#11615 Re: significant repeats
January 15, 2024, 10:18:30 pm
Nice to see DS still getting done after the peanut broke

edshakey

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#11616 Re: significant repeats
January 15, 2024, 10:42:19 pm
Is the ace still significant?

Tim Blake's done it and made it look rather easy with the cut then campus

https://youtu.be/JUaN3OFflWI?feature=shared

Dingdong

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#11617 Re: significant repeats
January 16, 2024, 06:54:20 am
Has the ace become the grits keen roof?  :worms:

tim palmer

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#11618 Re: significant repeats
January 16, 2024, 09:48:39 am
Yes,  except the sequence has got better on one and the holds better on the other

edshakey

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#11619 Re: significant repeats
January 19, 2024, 10:56:34 pm
Anyone know if Immortal got done today, and who did it? A log of Jugendstil (E5) at Maiden's Bluff suggests maybe so

Quote
Gus   19 Jan   Lead
Poundland Nessciffe scenes. Great day with a strong team. First E11 belay too! 

teestub

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#11620 Re: significant repeats
January 19, 2024, 11:02:58 pm
Looks like he was there with Gresh, McClure and Pearson, so there's a few candidates  ;D

mark20

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#11621 Re: significant repeats
January 20, 2024, 02:46:11 pm
Gus’ insta story shows James Pearson working it on a rope, so he seems the most likely candidate. 
Someone give Gus a ring, we need the goss !
 :popcorn:

edshakey

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#11622 Re: significant repeats
January 20, 2024, 05:54:57 pm
Also, unrelated, Pete Whittaker's story suggests he's done Pure Now E9 at Millstone

Fiend

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#11623 Re: significant repeats
January 20, 2024, 06:17:57 pm
Anyone know if Immortal got done today, and who did it? A log of Jugendstil (E5) at Maiden's Bluff suggests maybe so

Quote
Gus   19 Jan   Lead
Poundland Nessciffe scenes. Great day with a strong team. First E11 belay too! 
That bit's now deleted  :ninja:

edshakey

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#11624 Re: significant repeats
January 20, 2024, 06:56:07 pm
Would be funnier if he just changed it to

Quote
First E10 belay too!

 :popcorn:

 

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