[lukeyboy]

Short interview from the Man.

https://karpollaon8a.com/burden-of-dreams-third-ascent-by-simon-sisu-lorenzi/

Very interesting read. Refreshing how he's happy to talk about what he plans next (ROTSW, Megatron, Olympics) and mad that he's not a pro climber! I don't think he'll have much trouble with that now 😂

[jwi]

Very interesting read. Refreshing how he's happy to talk about what he plans next (ROTSW, Megatron, Olympics) and mad that he's not a pro climber! I don't think he'll have much trouble with that now 😂

Why mad? I think that in all of France there is only one professional rock climber, and I'm pretty sure that almost all comp climbers also have to work other jobs for a living.

On the continent: pro = paying living expenses plus putting in money to a pension plan from income related to climbing. In the US: pro = can buy shoes at reduced price.

[yetix]

I believe Jack Pal has done his 200th UK 8 of the year today (220 in total I think)

[Fultonius]

I believe Jack Pal has done his 200th UK 8 of the year today (220 in total I think)

That's some solid volume! At first I read it as 200 out of 220 in total ever, which was astonishing, then I rewlaied you meant he's done 20 this year not in the UK, right?

[yetix]

Yep! 200 in the uk and 20 in vastervik across 4 days (with no rest days in between)

I joked with him when he got to 200 this year globally that he had time to do 200 in the uk exclusively and it turned out he could.

Think he's on 550-600ish overall, but I've lost track if I'm honest!

[Fiend]

Over-performing swot  . Still, should be a good pyramid for some 9s....

[jwi]

Tomoa has flashed Gakidō 8C+ in Japan! After some discussion with Shinichiro Nomura (who made the FA) he's suggested a downgrade to 8B+. It'll be interesting to see where it settles, as Ryuichi Murai suggested 8C+ when he made the second ascent and both Ryuichi and Shinichiro have the palmares.

Reading the comments from the various ascents it sounds like an unusual problem, with some funny positions that mean the problem looks like it is easier than it actually feels on the go. Sounds like it fit Tomoa pretty well though, so maybe it's one of those that is a bit morpho and feels significantly easier if you fit in the box.

I could imagine it settling down to 8C, which would make Tomoa's ascent the first ever flash of an 8C.

Tomoa also added the sit, which adds a 4 move 8B in to the stand. Doing some napkin grade maths, even if you think the stand is 8B+ it's surely going to add up to at least 8C+.

https://www.instagram.com/p/C1GGUEsPL3U/

[yetix]

He says the flash is harder than his other 8b+ flash but also more his style, would like to hear what Ryuchi thinks about the grade as hadn't he suggested it might not be 8c+ but wanted to talk to the FAist? Wonder if this was potentially the first 8C flash...

[User deactivated.]

In a parallel universe where Tomoa has quit competition climbing and dedicated himself fully to rock climbing, I wonder if he's unequivocally the best boulderer in the world? I think this would probably be true.

[yetix]

I wondered something similar

[remus]

would like to hear what Ryuchi thinks about the grade as hadn't he suggested it might not be 8c+ but wanted to talk to the FAist? Wonder if this was potentially the first 8C flash...

In that very polite Japanese way Ryuchi said "As for the grade, it's difficult to evaluate because it's very short, but I feel it's easier than the V16s I've climbed so far." after he repeated it, so reading between the lines sounds like 8C.

Seems like it's quite a tricky one to grade. Looks like a weird move that feels miles off until you do it.

[Adam Lincoln]

Downgrade for sleeping lion incoming!
Megos.

Having your own private climbing centre obviously helps, who knew

[Duma]

Having your own private climbing centre obviously helps, who knew

what?

[Adam Lincoln]

Having your own private climbing centre obviously helps, who knew

what?

Watch his you tube vids

[jakaitch]

Downgrade for sleeping lion incoming!
Megos.

Having your own private climbing centre obviously helps, who knew

Source: https://www.instagram.com/p/C1uQuUGtsgJ/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MjM0N2Q2NDBjYg==

[Fiend]

Downgrade?? FFS Lincoln cite your sources better.

[Adam Lincoln]

Downgrade for sleeping lion incoming?
Megos.

Having your own private climbing centre obviously helps, who knew

[Adam Lincoln]

Downgrade?? FFS Lincoln cite your sources better.

It was a question not a statement. Such a quick ascent

[Fiend]

He's quite good tho, that Megos....

[lukeyboy]

He says the flash is harder than his other 8b+ flash but also more his style, would like to hear what Ryuchi thinks about the grade as hadn't he suggested it might not be 8c+ but wanted to talk to the FAist? Wonder if this was potentially the first 8C flash...

He says in the video that he's only ever touched one V15 before, so I would take his grade assessment with a pinch of salt. Maybe he just doesn't realise quite how strong he is!

[Adam Lincoln]

He's quite good tho, that Megos....

There we have it. 9b….

https://www.instagram.com/p/C1w8uMKNeun/?igsh=MW44Z2EzMnM5MGNqZg==

[Bradders]

Using number of sessions to determine grade again 

[crimpinainteasy]

Using number of sessions to determine grade again 

On the topic of number of sessions and grading it seems a crime that mutation only got 9a by Steve Mac back in the day. AFAIK it's still Will Bosi's longest project by a significant margin (40+ sessions), not to mention it's only had 1 repeat despite there being plenty of wads these days climbing at the 9a level. I wouldn't be shocked if it was acrtually the world's forst 9b.

[stone]

On the topic of number of sessions and grading it seems a crime that mutation only got 9a by Steve Mac back in the day. AFAIK it's still Will Bosi's longest project by a significant margin (40+ sessions), not to mention it's only had 1 repeat despite there being plenty of wads these days climbing at the 9a level. I wouldn't be shocked if it was acrtually the world's forst 9b.

https://darth-grader.net/ seems freakishly accurate for converting my guesstimates of the font grades of the component parts of the (not very tricky) routes I've climbed/failed on. Out of idle curiosity, I tried to DarthGrader Mutation based on what I remembered people saying and what made sense based on grades they seemingly cruised or struggled on. I couldn't wrestle it into outputting anything less than 9b.

I think I saw something where Will Bosi said it was exceptionally teetery at the top and that meant it was hard to compare with more physical routes. I suppose a bit like the biathlon where they have to shoot accurately after racing on x-country skis. I didn't really understand that though because that sounds like an elite version of routes like HardTorque (8a/8a+ at Lammergyer). If anything those are easier (and graded easier) than they would be if the component boulder problems were physical all the way.

My (obviously daftly ignorant) inputs were:
6C, medium_rest, 8A, no_rest, 7A, no_rest, 8A, no_rest, 7B+
That gives 9b

[yetix]

https://youtu.be/vy0k_zh9_ec?si=QXhlTeIg8Mx9H-7o looks like tomoas sit has already seen a repeat?