[Duncan campbell]

Think P-whiddy flashed it didn’t he??

That wasn’t meant as a random comment… more in response to Spidermonkey09 mentioning AW being stronger than Tom or Pete… I assumed from that that he was inferring that p-whiskey didn’t flash it? Was Pete’s the first flash?

[duncan]

That's really cool.

The Kraken looks to be a series of half-decent hand jam pods with a thin section in the middle more resembling conventional roof climbing (viewed from the comfort of the shingle beach, although I could pull-on with the hand jams a couple of places). Nothing that resembles an invert offwidth that's for sure. Did Waterhouse do much crack climbing when he was at university in the US?

Further evidence sport climbers with "power to waste" can adapt to crack climbing quite quickly if they choose to do so?

[Dingdong]

Alex and Billy have been doing numerous multi pitch crack climbs in and around Colorado since the middle of September in preparation to free the nose.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/showlog.php?id=191394

[Duma]

Mari is such a wad. And surely one of the funniest climbers on SM.

[remus]

UKB resident Barrows has climbed Autoengaño 9a in Rodellar, his 7th of the grade and third this year.

[yetix]

Brooke R has done Box Therapy and called it 8C/V15

Source: her instagram

[mattsparksy]

Brooke R has done Box Therapy and called it 8C/V15

Source: her instagram

It seems both Daniel Woods and Drew agree with the grade, also Shawn Rab did it back to back as Brooke.

[Kingy]

Awesome sends from Brooke and Shawn

I can see Daniel's endorsement of the downgrade on his story. I can't seem to see Drew's agreement on the downgrade? No insta story from him about the problem and Box is still featuring in his V16 highlight story?

[PipeSmoke]

Drew said it on Reddit, something along the lines of he could see it being a v15 with a massive walk in.

It would be pretty mad for someone to miss v15 altogether to be fair, considering how massive the grade range is.

[jwi]

Brooke R has done Box Therapy and called it 8C/V15

Source: her instagram

I went to insta and found the post from Brooke. It had a photo and a short write-up. Fine, but as I am a big idiot I clicked through to read the comments (yes, I know, I am stupid). Jesus! Insta is apparently full of the scum of the earth. Revolting

[shark]

You made me look JWI. 

[Dingdong]

Zander Waller repeats Sleepwalker and suggest downgrade to V15

https://www.instagram.com/p/CyXN4XpLI6M/

[jwi]

Sloper-problem in morpho shocker.

[Dingdong]

Sloper-problem in morpho shocker.

New beta found apparently

[Bradders]

I'm gonna keep banging this drum....if the grading system was less granular there'd be far less of a need for this sort of debate. Both Box Therapy and Sleepwalker would be "high 8s".

[edshakey]

But there would still be issues, no? Eg, when people started downgrading New Base Line, they would still have to say it's now mid 8, not hard 8. Wouldn't your proposal just reduce the number of downgrades by 50%? That may be a good thing, but it's hardly a huge problem solver.

[mattsparksy]

Sloper-problem in morpho shocker.

Zanders grading is wild, he downgraded Dunks on Decks from 8B+ to 7C, by effectively spanning past the crux. Having said that he did skip both V14/15 and did Sleepwalker in 4 sessions so time will tell...

[JamieG]

I'm gonna keep banging this drum....if the grading system was less granular there'd be far less of a need for this sort of debate. Both Box Therapy and Sleepwalker would be "high 8s".

I think you are kidding yourself if you don’t think people would still debate grades just as much. People already use qualifiers like ‘soft’ and ‘sandbag’ within the current systems. The problem is people expect the grading system to do something it can’t. To be objective. And I think the current system works pretty well. On average most people will find a 7a+ harder than a 7a. And that’s all it supposed to achieve. It’s harder to get any more granular because you reach the point where variation between climbers is higher than between problems. The current grade boundaries exist just above this threshold. But obviously there is still variation and overlap in both. People just care about the actual number more than the problem and that’s why they get upset.

[Bradders]

But there would still be issues, no? Eg, when people started downgrading New Base Line, they would still have to say it's now mid 8, not hard 8. Wouldn't your proposal just reduce the number of downgrades by 50%? That may be a good thing, but it's hardly a huge problem solver.

50% is better than nothing!

And I reckon it would be more than that since, if grades were less granular, they'd feel less special, therefore there'd be less ego involved and people wouldn't feel the need to have such clear cut opinions. It would matter less whether something was mid 7 or high 7.

I'm gonna keep banging this drum....if the grading system was less granular there'd be far less of a need for this sort of debate. Both Box Therapy and Sleepwalker would be "high 8s".

I think you are kidding yourself if you don’t think people would still debate grades just as much. People already use qualifiers like ‘soft’ and ‘sandbag’ within the current systems. The problem is people expect the grading system to do something it can’t. To be objective. And I think the current system works pretty well. On average most people will find a 7a+ harder than a 7a. And that’s all it supposed to achieve. It’s harder to get any more granular because you reach the point where variation between climbers is higher than between problems. The current grade boundaries exist just above this threshold. But obviously there is still variation and overlap in both. People just care about the actual number more than the problem and that’s why they get upset.

People saying things are soft / hard etc. is an attempt to make it even more granular than it already is, which I think is daft. Going the other way makes grades matter less as I say, whilst still giving the guiding element which is their only practical function.

[JamieG]

I agrée with you in principle by the way. I wish people concentrated less on numbers and more on the problems/routes/moves etc. So I’admire your optimistic idea. But I think people will always find ways to argue. It’s seems to be human nature to want to try classify things into neat little bins even when it’s impossible.

[andy moles]

Brooke R has done Box Therapy and called it 8C/V15

Source: her instagram

I went to insta and found the post from Brooke. It had a photo and a short write-up. Fine, but as I am a big idiot I clicked through to read the comments (yes, I know, I am stupid). Jesus! Insta is apparently full of the scum of the earth. Revolting

I'm not gonna look cos I don't want to feel angry, but I have been guilty of making the same error of reading 'the comments' on a few things recently...who are these people? I don't feel like I meet anyone that obnoxious in real life (well, very rarely...) Are they even real people, or just troll bots?

[remus]

Brooke R has done Box Therapy and called it 8C/V15

Source: her instagram

I went to insta and found the post from Brooke. It had a photo and a short write-up. Fine, but as I am a big idiot I clicked through to read the comments (yes, I know, I am stupid). Jesus! Insta is apparently full of the scum of the earth. Revolting

I'm not gonna look cos I don't want to feel angry, but I have been guilty of making the same error of reading 'the comments' on a few things recently...who are these people? I don't feel like I meet anyone that obnoxious in real life (well, very rarely...) Are they even real people, or just troll bots?

When Im feeling charitable I like to think they're just reasonable people who have gotten the wrong end of the stick. There's so much context missing online.

[jwi]

Brooke R has done Box Therapy and called it 8C/V15

Source: her instagram

I went to insta and found the post from Brooke. It had a photo and a short write-up. Fine, but as I am a big idiot I clicked through to read the comments (yes, I know, I am stupid). Jesus! Insta is apparently full of the scum of the earth. Revolting

I'm not gonna look cos I don't want to feel angry, but I have been guilty of making the same error of reading 'the comments' on a few things recently...who are these people? I don't feel like I meet anyone that obnoxious in real life (well, very rarely...) Are they even real people, or just troll bots?

When Im feeling charitable I like to think they're just reasonable people who have gotten the wrong end of the stick. There's so much context missing online.

When you see angry crazy shit like that in the public comments, just imagine the absolute bile in the DMs!

[Wellsy]

Zander Waller has repeated Sleepwalker and given it 8C. He's never done 8B+ before either I think? Seems like a significant and potentially interesting repeat...

https://www.instagram.com/p/CyXN4XpLI6M/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

[Kingy]

Amazing. Can't wait to see the new beta. I recall Ryhuchi used a small undercut for his left hand that helped him get in the narrow slot above the sloper, I wonder if that was it... or a real beta breaker.