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significant repeats (Read 4738702 times)

remus

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#11050 Re: significant repeats
May 17, 2023, 09:31:31 pm
In the locally significant category, but a fella soloed Messiah E7 at burbage south today. Wouldn't be my first choice of E7 to solo!

Apologies for the scant details, just saw a pic here https://www.instagram.com/stories/etchd_climbing/3104826268667302482/

Bonjoy

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#11051 Re: significant repeats
May 18, 2023, 08:49:51 am
It kind of makes sense as a highball as the single cam gear has ripped on at least one leader, and the very top bit looks about HVS. You'd want plenty of pads and a spot though!

PATRuL

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#11052 Re: significant repeats
May 18, 2023, 08:53:48 am
Get on it yoof : )
Bring back the beard!

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#11053 Re: significant repeats
May 18, 2023, 08:59:57 am
Great looking line, i'd like to have a go at Messiah above pads myself sometime!

SA Chris

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#11054 Re: significant repeats
May 18, 2023, 09:28:01 am
"I've just had the weirdest dream. I was soloing Messiah on a cool clear day....."

Duma

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#11055 Re: significant repeats
May 18, 2023, 09:29:18 am
Is that from November Chris?

loved that little book

shurt

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#11056 Re: significant repeats
May 18, 2023, 09:40:54 am
Is that from November Chris?

loved that little book

Me too, I lent mine to someone and they moved away and I never got it back. Was gutted

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#11057 Re: significant repeats
May 18, 2023, 09:50:01 am
Cofe might still have some copies if you're lucky?

SA Chris

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#11058 Re: significant repeats
May 18, 2023, 09:50:15 am
Is that from November Chris?

loved that little book

Yes. I found my copy a week ago in a pile of paperwork and was just reading it again last week. Love it too, wish there was more like it.
(My copy is not yours Sam!).

remus

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#11059 Re: significant repeats
May 18, 2023, 09:50:49 am
It kind of makes sense as a highball as the single cam gear has ripped on at least one leader, and the very top bit looks about HVS. You'd want plenty of pads and a spot though!

Maybe if you're a beast! I've only had a quick play on a top rope but the crux felt pretty insecure to me, I'd have a couple of totems in the break before you could blink an eye.

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#11060 Re: significant repeats
May 18, 2023, 11:22:03 am
That crux is classic grit weirdness. I canít touch it but I can imagine it being quite solid if it suits you. Still flippin impressive as a solo!

Johnny Brown

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#11061 Re: significant repeats
May 18, 2023, 12:02:36 pm
Quote
It kind of makes sense as a highball as the single cam gear has ripped on at least one leader

Hmmm, not to me, the cam is at your balls mid-crux and it's a bunched move liable to fire/ flip you backwards, 25 ft up. Bold!

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#11062 Re: significant repeats
May 18, 2023, 12:19:30 pm
In the locally significant category, but a fella soloed Messiah E7 at burbage south today. Wouldn't be my first choice of E7 to solo!

Apologies for the scant details, just saw a pic here https://www.instagram.com/stories/etchd_climbing/3104826268667302482/

Nils Favre is the climber.

chickencurry60

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#11063 Re: significant repeats
May 18, 2023, 01:06:08 pm
It kind of makes sense as a highball as the single cam gear has ripped on at least one leader, and the very top bit looks about HVS. You'd want plenty of pads and a spot though!
I saw him setting up and it looked like he had a fair few pads under it


Wellsy

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#11065 Re: significant repeats
May 18, 2023, 01:55:57 pm
Looks like he just repeated Careless Torque too

SA Chris

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#11066 Re: significant repeats
May 18, 2023, 02:00:27 pm
Quote
It kind of makes sense as a highball as the single cam gear has ripped on at least one leader

Hmmm, not to me, the cam is at your balls mid-crux and it's a bunched move liable to fire/ flip you backwards, 25 ft up. Bold!

Is the crux getting standing in the small break in the arete 2/3 of the way up then? Always though the whole bloody thing looked hard.

remus

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#11067 Re: significant repeats
May 18, 2023, 02:42:33 pm
Pretty much, there's a vid of Dave Mc on the crux here https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cd5ICoWjxWP/ The lower section is a little tricky but the meat is definitely the moves off the little break at 2/3rds.

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#11068 Re: significant repeats
May 18, 2023, 02:43:10 pm
Quote
It kind of makes sense as a highball as the single cam gear has ripped on at least one leader

Hmmm, not to me, the cam is at your balls mid-crux and it's a bunched move liable to fire/ flip you backwards, 25 ft up. Bold!

Is the crux getting standing in the small break in the arete 2/3 of the way up then? Always though the whole bloody thing looked hard.

Yes. Decent sidepull undercut with your right and disappointing slopey compression with your left. Building your feet seems absolutely desperate. Footholds arenít brilliant. Plenty of videos of people making it look steady. Despite it being a big reach up to the break I reckon itís one of those thatís easier if youíre short.

SA Chris

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#11069 Re: significant repeats
May 18, 2023, 02:57:48 pm
That's put me off :) Thanks for info.

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#11070 Re: significant repeats
May 18, 2023, 03:12:55 pm
Despite it being a big reach up to the break I reckon itís one of those thatís easier if youíre short flexible.

I might be wrong, but this correction usually applies  ;D

T_B

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#11071 Re: significant repeats
May 18, 2023, 03:30:49 pm
I dunno Iím pretty flexible (less so thesedays!). You do get some moves where you need to get your feet really high by your hands. If the handholds are undercutsÖ anyway no excuses. My wifeís 5í3 and gives me shit all the time about lanking stuff  :lol:.

SA Chris

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#11072 Re: significant repeats
May 18, 2023, 03:40:41 pm
Mine too, and how about placing gear in a place that's comfortable to you that she needs to get out in the middle of hard moves?

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#11073 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2023, 03:30:19 am
He's also done Samson I think which is prob more noteworthy?

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#11074 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2023, 09:35:44 am
He's also done Samson I think which is prob more noteworthy?

In this heat too. Fair play but I guess thatís what you can get away with when you climb 5 grades below your max 🤣

 

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